"you don't need a lift for 33's" prove me its REAL (Practical) or just a THEORY

I launched cookie particles from my mouth when I read this.

 

In full clarity for anyone still reading, I just noticed Kmeeg's first screencap was a comment I made in another thread. I want to be clear that nowhere did I say there would be "no clearance issues", I said a lift is not needed, and I stand by that statement. Plastic cutting may be required.

And Nano, I wasn't "YELLING" at Kmeeg, I was pointing out that his poll answers and what he asked in the thread title didn't match. I think it all boiled down to a miscommunication, which now seems to be resolved.

 

Not to beat a dead horse, but since several of us mentioned it in this thread, and Kmeeg pointed out some significant variances in brand/ model tire specs, I found this interesting and thought I'd share for anyone who hadn't come across it yet. If you plug 255/80R17 and 285/70R17 into the tire calculator, these are the numbers it prints out. So for the overly anal of us (I lean in this direction), I don't think a 285/70R17 is a "true 33" unless the specific tire you're looking at happens to meet those specs. This calculator does not take brand/ model into account, it simply runs the numbers of the "average" tire size:

 

It's a Toyota, rust is going to start either way lol. Just hit anything exposed with an extra coat of fluid film.

 

Iowa is the only Iowa class that I've been on. I've been on a SoDak, Battleship Cove is not too far for me. Being used to seeing the Massachusetts, I was stunned at how much larger the Iowa's are.

I'm actually going to Battleship Cove tomorrow, Drachinefel is going to be there. If you don't know who he is, he does great YouTube videos about naval history & warships, I highly recommend checking out his channel. Battleship New Jersey has a pretty awesome YT channel too.

 

Sorry, yes, that's correct. My 2017 Taco was a TRD Off Road, so is my 2022 4Runner.

 

Very cool! I do know his videos, I subscribe to his channel. "Battleship New Jersey" is another excellent channel along the same lines.

I was lucky enough to go on the Mighty Mo when it was still an active warship (during her recommissioned years). The New Jersey I just went to for the first time a few months ago, and the Iowa was a year ago, on accident, since she's moored right where I happened to be boarding my cruise ship. Haha

My total list of ships I've been on includes (I know I'm forgetting some):
The active service vessels I toured (when they were still active): Missouri, Oliver Hazzard Perry guided missile frigate (the one the class was named after), a Ticonderoga Class (can't recall the name), Kittyhawk, Constellation, and a Los Angeles Class SSN. Retired ships I've been on: USS Drum (Sturgeon class SSN), Midway, Hornet, Cleveland Class, Fletcher Class, Liberty ship, two or three Gato and Balao class subs, etc.

 

That's the perfect setup. The 7" wide TRD Pro wheels are most manufacturer's recommended size wheels for 255/80's. I've settled on some new 8.5" wheels (the Method 701's in bronze), but 8.5" is the very top size allowed for 255's, so definitely not ideal. I'm struggling now between 255/80's or just going with 285/70's, like everyone else. Haha

 

Wow that's a great list! I haven't been on any active duty ships, only museum ships.

I visited the Iowa when I was visiting friends in California, and I also made my way to San Diego and saw the Midway on the same trip. Visited the Intrepid in New York, and the Nautilus in Connecticut. I've also been to all the ships at Battleship Cove.

I originally was planning on going to see Drach at the Salem in Quincy, because I actually haven't visited her yet. I looked at his schedule though, and when that event ends it'll put me in crazy Boston traffic trying to get home.

 

Yeah, it's a shame that there aren't any narrower aftermarket wheel choices. Whenever I look at wheels, all the designs I like are 9 in wide. I don't need that wide, I rather have a wider sidewall bulge.

 

I wish I'd thought to go to Battleship Cove when I was on my road trip back east last October, but I totally spaced it. But that was the trip where I went to Philly for the New Jersey (and the Olympia across the river), and then up to Buffalo, for the Cleveland and Fletcher classes.

 

And lift height. Just about any tire could be cleared with a 20" lift.

 

Full stuff, lock to lock? Otherwise, they don't clear.

Although you did specify "on pavement." Still, not really useful for some of us.

And alignment specs, fender liner mod, mudflap removal or adjustment, and any trimming.

FWIW, I've never heard of anyone actually clearing 33's without a fender liner mod or some trimming.

 

Sitting still on pavement, clear. Fabulous.

 

We need a poll option for "lift doesn't clear tires"

 

Lol at "because they saw on Internet.". How about "because they understand physics."

 

I guess the main thing to consider is that the trimming, fender liner adjustment, and mudflap adjustment are what cleared the tires. The lift had nothing to do with it.

 

I know you mentioned your reasons why earlier (rust, which I can respect), but keep in mind all you may have had to do is simply remove the front mudflaps. I just went out and looked at my daughter's Taco, and the front mudflaps are the only thing rubbing, and they sit easily a good 1/2" to 3/4" forward of the body mount. I think it's important to keep in mind that the vast majority of the folks who are fitting 33's on their no-lift trucks are removing the front mud flaps, which is something you're not willing to do. Your disbelief in their success might be because they're doing something you aren't. Again, not trying to come across as argumentative, so please don't read it that way.

 

You mean, you proved that lift doesn't clear tires?

Agreed.

 

So, you cleared 33's with lift and no trimming? I must have misread your earlier post.

 

You didn't prove anything.

You have different wheels with different offsets on each vehicle.

Swap wheels and your mind will be blown!

 

What theories? Is physics a theory to you?

I can go on about facts...

Think of it this way: the tire's range of motion is controlled by the control arms, not the coilovers. So, regardless of ride height, the tire has the same range of motion. The only way to clear tires is to change the range of motion (alignment, UCA's, wheel offset, etc) or trim the parts it's rubbing on.

 

Your statements and arguments in this thread are fallacious at best. Factual information has been given to you many times, but you refuse to believe it. I get that you want this thread for yourself. But why make the thread at all if you won't take anyone's advice or reasoning???

 

I agree, you are pretty much stuck with the TRD pro’s at 7” width, or TRD or’s at 7.5” width. I would be afraid of busting a bead when running 255/80’s aired down with wider wheels.

 

So, your goal is to confuse people who are looking for information by sharing this thread?

The only thing this thread proves is that you're more interested in trying to support your opinion than actually provide any worthwhile information.

You can keep saying that everyone else is wrong, and you're right. But, that doesn't make it so. In order for this thread to support your argument, you'd have to show proof that someone had cleared bigger tires by lifting alone, which you won't be able to do.

 

In all fairness, most "33's" aren't actually 33".

 

What evidence? You didn't clear anything with a lift. You cleared it with trimming.

Is your YouTube channel this deceitful? I sure hope nobody is taking anything you say seriously on there.

 

Yeah this guy has lost all credibility. I wanted to make sure I could clear the tires at stock height before lifting since they will eventually make it back to that position at some point in their travel. This guy can clear his tires as long as he stays on flat ground and never hits a bump

 

Are you caster numbers exactly the same on both?