Oil change question

Do them yourself. That way you have no question that it was done correctly. Takes about 30 minutes, just get a set of ramps, a 14mm and a 12mm socket and filter wrench from Amazon. I bulk-buy my filters ahead of time. Hit the Auto-Zone or Napa for the oil. Biggest PITA is removing and re-installing my TRD skid plate. But it's a great feeling of well-being to know that everything is done correctly, all bolts are tightened and the skid-plate bolts don't get stripped.

 

For me it's not about the money. It's about making sure it's done right with no damage.

IMO oil change is made unnecessarily complicated by the canister/filter setup (as opposed to a spin on). The plastic fitting that is *supposed* to clip into the canister to drain it before removing the element is a bodge at best. No way I've found to avoid spillage and the plastic fitting easily cracks on install or removal. (Yes, I now have the Motiv-X tool . . .)

So if I, as someone invested in doing a good job and has 30 years of mechanical and engine building experience, finds this to be fiddly work, imagine how it's gonna turn out when a $12/hr lube tech has to do it. Nothing against them BTW, I think the pay sucks and it's a job where doing it right only hurts the employee. Incentives are wrong in the repair industry.

Conclusion (man, I'm ramble-y today):
Do it yourself if you can.
Find a REAL shop where you can talk to the person who will do the work.

Jason

 

I don't mind doing the oil change and even tire rotation, its my lack of mechanical skills and expertise that concerns me. I can't identify issues that may be able to dealt with while its small, I don't know what things to look for, and so on.

 

The Dealer is usually cheaper than those quick service places.
Peace of mind, however, is priceless.
I do the oil changes myself.

 

So obvious, yet so elusive. It didn’t click until I read the words. Yes! Talk to the guy who does the work rather than a manicured service advisor who hands the work off to a faceless technician with no accountability to the customer.

 

I would report that nonsense to the BBB.

 

Just getting under your vehicle with a flashlight looking it over is a good thing. You don’t have to be a master mechanic to notice fluid leaks. You’ll find that in time you will become very familiar with it and notice when something seems off. Then if need be you can have a mechanic take a closer look. Good on you for doing your own preventative maintenance.

 

This ^^^

 

I did one today on the taco. I installed the fumoto valve so in the future they go easier and no mess. I think there is value in doing it yourself and getting the parts components you want to use.

 

Did my oil change today, first time since I had the lift removed. I must say it’s a lot easier with the lift.

 

Did my own (OK, fine, I had a little help) for the first time last month. Found out that the dealership techs ruined every bolt for my skid plate by using the impact gun too aggressively. This, and other numerous reasons, are why I think it is wise to do the oil change yourself. Peace of mind knowing you did it exactly as it should be. I wish I was more mechanically inclined as I would love to be able to do ALL the maintenance on my own and never depend on a dealership or other crooked shops again. Maybe I am getting too picky as I age, but damnit, I paid good $ for this rig, I absolutely love it, and I want it to last!!

 

Links for all parts please? I thought I read somewhere that the '22 required a different metal oil filter cap housing. Can anyone confirm or refute?
Thanks

 

Definitely not required. But it is piece of mind, having a metal housing knowing your not gonna snap the plastic ears off when removing.

"Amazon.com: Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly : Automotive"

$20 Toyota Oil Filter Cap - 15620-31060

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Toyo...t=&hvlocphy=9002711&hvtargid=pla-504004899047

 

Pretty sure the one I just put on my 22 last week, was the same I put on my 17 taco and 18 runner.

 

Thanks for the link. Just did my first DIY oil change on the ‘21 and, like you, not thrilled with a plastic housing on an off-road truck. Will swap it out next oil change.

As for the Fumoto valves, Can someone enlighten me? Are they for the oil pan drain or for the filter canister drain or both? If both, Which to order for which

 

Oil pan drain plug.

https://www.fumotousa.com/cars-pickups-toyota-2022-4runner-4-0l-v6

Also a short video on installing the aluminum oil filter housing.
https://youtu.be/9UtzAjag4hw

 

After an oil change at the dealership, the first thing I do is check the oil dipstick before leaving the lot. I can do the work myself but just don't like crawling under the vehicle at 72 years old. LOL Plus, rotating the tires without a lift is a pain in the rear. But I feel lucky in that it seems I have a good dealership. I owned a 10' F.J. Cruiser for 11 years and never experienced a service issue with this dealer. But if even one issue arises I'll go back to doing it myself.

 

For those guys doing their on oil changes. What are you doing with your old oil and how much are you paying to dispose of it?

 

I take mine to AutoZone or like auto parts store, or sometimes my landfill/recycling center has a site for hazardous wastes. No charge on either technically.

 

I Return it to Advance Auto parts, where I bought it. No charge.

 

Same. I also have a local shop where I can dispose of coolant and other waste. They even take my scrap metal as it makes them money when they take it to be recycled. Did a radiator, 4 shocks, lower control arms and some other misc parts in my Tundra last year. I bet they got a free $20 from me...

 

I take mine to Advance Auto, they take used fluids for recycling even if you didn't buy them there. I usually do a few changes then drop off 3 or 4 gallons at a time.

Depending on what state you live in, the place you bought it from may be required to take the used oil back. MA is like that, I actually used to buy my oil in MA even though I'm in RI for that reason, till I discovered Advance takes it.

 

Exactly! Worst case, you panic when you see a leak, ask us about it, and we just tell you it’s water from the AC.

I recommend finding a way to get comfortable when under the the car. I had a a bunch of carpet padding left over and I made a bunch of rectangles from it. I use those to kneel on and lay on whenever Im working on it. But whatever works! I find it makes me more patient to be comfortable when working on the car.

i have a big sealable container that was a throwaway from my buddies shop. Holds about 8 gallons or so. Once it’s full, I take it to my landfill/hazmat disposal place we still have in my county.

They keep moving the location of the oil collection place, so Im getting the sense the government is looking to save my taxpayer money and do away with this convenience.

Good to know autozone and the like take used oil, but I suspect they wouldn’t want 8 gallons at a time lol.

 

Just changed my oil today.

I noticed that no one has mentioned tire rotation. You should be rotating your tires when you change your oil. Especially on our 4wd 4Runners.

I changed my oil and rotated my tires. It took me 2 hours. I am old and out of shape and work on my concrete driveway with hand tools.

The 4Runner is the most PITA vehicle I have ever changed the oil on. Removing the factory steel skid plate is a major pain. It is heavy, and has to be completely removed, along with the plastic valance, when not on a lift. I decided to leave both off this time. I have an aftermarket skid plate in my cart on Amazon and will order it in a couple of days.

I replaced my OEM plastic filter housing with an OEM aluminum housing for a Camry. I run Mobil 1 5w20w and a Mobil 1 filter cartridge.

I simply don't trust anyone these days when it comes to anything, really. I have had multiple issues with over-tightened filters, drain plugs, stripped bolts, etc.

My local Toyota dealer charges $106 to change the oil and rotate the tires. Materials for me to do it cost $50. I know it was done right and quality components were used.

But, if my next oil change comes up while there is still snow on the ground, then I will take it to a local garage that will do it for $70 that has not screwed up oil changes in the past on other vehicles.

 

Check out the CBI skid.. just remove the trap door with a hex (2 bolts). The drain plug area is cut out to where, installing a fumoto drain valve can be accessed and drain without issues

 

I did my first DIY oil change on the 4Runner yesterday. I've done a lot of oil changes on a lot of vehicles over the years, but this one went sideways big time. So let my F-Ups be a cautionary tale!

Long story short, everything went perfectly until I broke the filter housing's plastic tabs on reinstall -- and didn't realize until engine start that I'd also cracked the thing. So a good three or four quarts of new Mobil 1 sprayed out all over the place. Soooo, I order a metal replacement housing and cleaned up the mess thinking, fine, I wasted some time and new oil but now I'll have the metal housing this thing should have been built with from the beginning.

Buuuuuuuuttt -- then I can't get the broken housing back off! I wrestled with it for hours over yesterday and today, trying different things and only chewing it up more. Obv I had overtightened it, but really I can't understand why it won't budge. Ugh. So I swallowed my already injured pride and got the truck towed to my local shop for them to figure it out. This will be the Most Expensive Oil Change Ever! And they'll just put a new plastic housing on it!

Lesson 1: be gentle with that plastic housing
Lesson 2: use a proper, good fitting wrench -- mine had slop in it, which no doubt aggravated the problem
Lesson 3: consider replacing the housing with a metal one on your next oil change
Lesson 4: above all, don't be a dum-dum like me

 

You don't need to torque the housing down all that much which is why there's that stopper. Also make sure you're using the proper tool.

 

This is the filter wrench I bought from my dealership back when I started doing my own oil changes, after my two year free bolt stripping benefits.

It fits the filter housing perfectly and only contacts the lower area. I do not believe those tabs/ears on the housing are designed to sustain excessive torque. Seems like all of the posts on this forum that are reporting damaged filter bodies are using filter wrenches that are slotted to engage into those tabs.

Removing the housing does require a bit of torque until you’ve cleared the o-ring, then it gets easier. I take it very slow when removing.

 

I just got one of these. For the next time when I do it right. Designed like yours -- just grabs the fluted area, and deeply. Doesn't even touch those breakable tabs.

$30 Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench for Toyota Camry, Tundra, Tacoma, 4Runner, RAV4 and More - 64mm 14 Flute Precision CNC Machined Aluminum Oil Filter Removal Tool

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XTAGHU0?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

 

Thanks for the link.
Interestingly, Amazon says it doesn’t match my ‘21 4Runner!!?
Bought it anyway.