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No compression at all, please HELP!

Discussion in 'General 4Runner Talk' started by SQRL, Feb 2, 2018.

  1. Mar 9, 2018 at 7:36 PM
    #61
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    Maybe a little more. The sealing surface should be pretty consistent all the way around.

    Steve
     
  2. Mar 10, 2018 at 9:12 PM
    #62
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Ok, that's kinda what I was thinking
     
  3. Mar 12, 2018 at 8:04 AM
    #63
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I've read a few things about putting the back on, and some say gasket sealer around the chain cover and oil holes and some said don't use sealer on the head gasket. What do you think?
     
  4. Mar 12, 2018 at 8:10 AM
    #64
    Caltech90

    Caltech90 New Member

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    upload_2018-3-12_11-9-51.jpg

    I would work on this area a little more.
     
  5. Mar 12, 2018 at 8:17 AM
    #65
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I lapped it again and it went smoother.. what do you recommend I do to get that looking good?
     
  6. Mar 12, 2018 at 9:08 AM
    #66
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I took that valve back out and got it looking a lot better. Please answer my question about the head gasket and sealer, I really don't want to mess that up

    20180312_100638.jpg
     
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  7. Mar 12, 2018 at 1:35 PM
    #67
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    About the gasket sealer, I would say no. Just make sure that the top of the timing cover and the gasket is flush (using a straight edge) with the top of the block when you torque down the timing cover.

    Steve

    Edit. Now that I think about it more, you could put a couple dabs of sealer where the cover meets the block. That way there is less likely a chance for oil to seep from there.
     
    Last edited: Mar 12, 2018
  8. Mar 26, 2018 at 8:38 AM
    #68
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Got it all back together and fired it up. It's running on all pistons but the lifters seem to be ticking louder than usual. I adjusted the valves before total assembly, but it was obviously on a cold motor. Should I adjust again with the motor warm or is there something you suggest I try?
     
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  9. Mar 26, 2018 at 9:08 AM
    #69
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    Yes, by all means, take it out for a drive. Let some things kinda work themselves in a bit. Check and readjust as needed. Check the plugs after a hundred miles or so. Being in a cold climate, what wt. oil do you use? Glad that you got it back together.

    Steve

    Also we're on our way out the door to do old people shit, Dr. & Dentist and discounts at lunch spots.
    I'll check back later.
     
    Last edited: Mar 26, 2018
  10. Mar 26, 2018 at 9:14 AM
    #70
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I the colder months 5w30 and in the warm 10w30 synthetic blend
     
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  11. Apr 6, 2018 at 3:56 PM
    #71
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I had to take the timing off again after putting it all back together. Now putting everything back on and the crankshaft pulley won't go on all the way and it's really frustrating as I just want it done. Any thoughts of why I can't get it on all the way?
     
  12. Apr 6, 2018 at 5:06 PM
    #72
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    That sucks. The only thing I can think of is maybe the key way is not lined up good or it has come out of its slot on the crank.

    Steve
    I don't remember, but is the key square or one of those half moon shaped ones?
    If it is half moon shaped, it could have pushed back and out of its slot.
    Is it hard to see the crank straight on while trying to align the pulley to it?
     
    Last edited: Apr 6, 2018
  13. Apr 6, 2018 at 5:22 PM
    #73
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Do I need to take it all apart to get it into the slot or is there someway I can do it without taking everything apart?
     
  14. Apr 6, 2018 at 5:26 PM
    #74
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    I edited my last post.
    Needle nose pliers?
     
  15. Apr 6, 2018 at 6:04 PM
    #75
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I just noticed something... there's space on the bottom from the spline to the oil pump housing/timing cover and no space at all on the top. Does that mean the spline is not lined up??

    20180406_190158.jpg
    20180406_190129.jpg
     
  16. Apr 6, 2018 at 6:26 PM
    #76
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    That sounds reasonable. Or the timing cover is slightly to low. I can't remember if the T cover has alignment studs or guides to center it.

    Steve
     
  17. Apr 6, 2018 at 6:32 PM
    #77
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I didn't think the cover would be off but I don't see why not I guess... I'll take the bolts out and see if it will move at all
     
  18. Apr 6, 2018 at 6:43 PM
    #78
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    I hate to say to take the cover back off, but it could be easier to realign that splined collar. Sorry

    Steve

    Some days I hate myself. But I do know how frustrating it can be to be so close to driving it again. I think we all can.
     
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  19. Apr 6, 2018 at 6:45 PM
    #79
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Haha ya I have learned during this project to not cut corners, would have saved me lots of time.
     
  20. Apr 8, 2018 at 7:33 AM
    #80
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I'm an idiot... I put the spline on backward, dummy. Wanted to let some sealer dry overnight, gonna put fluids in today and fire it up. Always a nerve racking moment starting it after major engine work
     
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  21. Apr 8, 2018 at 10:07 AM
    #81
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    You'll get through this dude. As my mind trails off thinking of the many, many times that I myself have had and still having those dummy moments.

    Steve
     
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  22. Apr 8, 2018 at 11:38 AM
    #82
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Started it up and it sounds and feels like it's running stronger. After I drove it around the block, I revved it a little and it straight died when I let off the gas. Does this mean anything? I still have to pull the valve cover and check the valves and the timing chain as I had to put on a new guide and tensioner
     
  23. Apr 8, 2018 at 12:27 PM
    #83
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    I don't know, I have very little knowledge of fuel injection and the electronics involved with it. My own experience & issues were carb. and mechanical fuel pumps.
    Did it start back up?

    Steve
     
  24. Apr 8, 2018 at 12:30 PM
    #84
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Ya it started and it does struggle a little bit on idle, but before I tore it apart the first time I was messing with the fuel screw and I may need to move the distributor a tooth. My timings off a bit and my distributor is all the forward
     
  25. Apr 8, 2018 at 12:49 PM
    #85
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    Yes with the valve cover off, turn the crank, intake valve opened then closed to TDC on the pulley. Set the rotor to the #1 plug, button it up, fire it up and set the timing. Yep it's the little things that try our patience.

    Steve
     
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  26. Apr 8, 2018 at 7:33 PM
    #86
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I set timing and adjusted the valves. It's running strong and idles healthy. I can't thank you enough for your help and knowledge you've shared with me, I would have struggled bad without it. Thank you so much.
     
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  27. Apr 9, 2018 at 10:18 AM
    #87
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    That is great news. I'm glad that I can help in any way. Through this forum and a few like it, I have gained knowledge to try the DIY with great results.
    Thank you for your compliments.

    Steve
     

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