No compression at all, please HELP!

87 rebuilt 22re
3rd piston was not firing, I finally got a hold of a compression tester,
1=120
2=118
3=0
4=120
120 is super low right???
Why is it so low and what should I do? Why do I have 0 in #3?? Please PLEASE HELP

 

114 is the lowest for Toyota spec I believe, normal should be 171 or so. If this is recently rebuilt I would be concerned.

Whats up in cylinder 3? valves stuck? did you adjust the valves (Isn't that needed on the 22re's like my 3rz?)

 

It was rebuilt about 15k ago. Is that recent as your saying? I did do valve adjustments, small adjustments but I will check them again.

 

To me, it sounds like a burnt exhaust valve. Has it ever backfired out the exhaust pipe when you start it up? Maybe it wasn't seated properly when it was rebuilt.
As a back story, I'm old and have been through my share of Toyota trucks from 1970 on up. I don't recall where on the intake manifold the brake booster vacuum is pulled from, but if it is near the #3 cylinder, it could be creating a lean fuel mixture and the end result is a much hotter cylinder temp.
This is only from my experience, I used to have a '73 FJ-40 LC. The booster vacuum was pulled from close to the #5/6 cylinders, and as a result a lean fuel mixture occurs. The engine/speed shop I worked with came up with a "fix" for it. We used exhaust valves and exhaust seats from the late '80's Land Cruiser. It was updated technology because of unleaded gas.
It might be time to take the head off to see whats up.

Steve

 

It has backfired before, so I will pull the head and see what I find. Also there was a small amount of oil on the spark plug when I first took it out, if that helps narrow anything down. Thank you for your knowledge.

 

Found the problem, an exhaust valve is chipped. Can I pit a new one in or what do I have to do?

 

If it were me and funds were limited, that's exactly what I would do. Just make sure the seat is in good shape and lap (not slap) in a new one. And I'm sure you will take the time to clean and check the rest of the head. New gaskets, blah blah blah. Then you're on your way , good luck.

Steve

 

Thank you Steve. Haha it would be nice if we could "slap" in a new one.

 

My valve and lap kit should be here tomorrow. My new question is I got new valve seals for all valves, should I disassemble all valves and replace all of them? I would usually just go ahead and do it but the resent rebuild has me hung up so I thought I should ask. Thanks

 

If it were me, I would. Simply because you will check all the valve seats and if any of them needed a quick spin, you're right there.

Steve

 

Right, thank you. So will I need to lap every valve?

 

No, not necessarily. After you release the valves from the keepers and such, just check to see if the valve has good contact with its seat. You'll see what a good contact ring will look like. You can always post a pic of the #3 valve seats when both valves are out of it. I do know it will take some extra time to replace all the seals because I've done it to my old Land Cruiser more than a few times.

Steve

 

Ok thank you, I will post some pics when I get em out. Thank you again, your input is so helpful and I just want my runner back

 

Just found something cleaning the top of the block and it made my heart sink and my asshole tighten... can I put gasket sealer over this as it is small or is it down right screwed??

 

It appears from the shadow that your work light is making, that piece is loose. If it is, try to remove it and see how far under the bracket it goes. The thru bolt in the timing cover has a good enough bite in the iron block, so I don't think it would matter much. If you don't plan on removing the timing cover just make sure that not too much shit from scraping gasket junk falls down in there. That kind of stuff can plug oil passages. Good luck dude, we hope that it turns out for the better.

Steve

 

Good news, thank you so much

 

the little piece is not loose, I think the previous owner must put gasket sealer around it as there is plenty. idk if I stated this before but I am teaching and learning as I go, I got the head off without removing the timing cover, but cleaning I definitely decided it would be a good idea and I have all the necessary gaskets so I should put those on while I have it torn down. when I get the cover off and that piece comes loose, ill check to see how far down it goes, but it looks to be maybe 1/4 inch max

 

This is what came out after the bolt.
What are your thoughts? Seal it in, is it going to be a problem?

 

I think as long as the mating surface between the block and timing cover is good, it should be alright. I don't think that I would try to piece it back in though, no reason for it.

Steve

 

Ok, ya it looks like there would be enough surface for a seal, thank you

 

Got he cover off and you can see a lot better, but before I just went ahead I wanted to show and get your opinion

 

It looks like the gasket will provide enough of a seal. After the oil is cleaned up around the bolt hole, you could always put a dab of gasket maker around it.

Steve

 

ok great, thank you so much for all the input you've given me. I will put up pics and updates and I'm sure I will have more questions as I continue.

 

Hey dude just curious, where on the intake manifold is the brake booster vacuum pulled from?

Steve

 

I'm not sure that it has power brakes with a booster.. :/ sorry man I in the Chilton book and that shows there would be a vacume line for the booster coming off the master and I have no vacume line on my master

 

My '78 Hilux had a brake booster unit on it. Maybe the P/O removed it for some reason. Can you post a pic of the engine bay near the master cylinder?

Steve

 

If you need more let me know man

 

Yep that's the vacuum booster. Just to the left (in the pic) of the brake fluid res. is a 90* elbow fitting and the hose that runs along the firewall. That will be the one pulling vacuum from your intake manifold. I was just wondering if the fitting on the intake was near the #3 cylinder.

Steve

Ha, my '78 Hilux was a victim of a roll over. Hood, fender, right door and roof from 3 different trucks. And a flat bed on it. I sold that truck in '93 w/289k miles on it. I still see it from time to time.

 

I was looking at that and thought it was to large for a vacuum line... :/ I feel like an idiot, thanks for letting me know. I have everything torn apart, but I'll go check to see where on the intake that leads to.

 

No big deal man. You're gettin it done.

Steve