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No compression at all, please HELP!

Discussion in 'General 4Runner Talk' started by SQRL, Feb 2, 2018.

  1. Feb 2, 2018 at 6:59 PM
    #1
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    3rd piston was not firing, I finally got a hold of a compression tester,
    1=120
    2=118
    3=0
    4=120
    120 is super low right???
    Why is it so low and what should I do? Why do I have 0 in #3?? Please PLEASE HELP
     
  2. Feb 2, 2018 at 8:48 PM
    #2
    SnowroxKT

    SnowroxKT New Member

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    114 is the lowest for Toyota spec I believe, normal should be 171 or so. If this is recently rebuilt I would be concerned.

    Whats up in cylinder 3? valves stuck? did you adjust the valves (Isn't that needed on the 22re's like my 3rz?)
     
  3. Feb 2, 2018 at 8:51 PM
    #3
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    It was rebuilt about 15k ago. Is that recent as your saying? I did do valve adjustments, small adjustments but I will check them again.
     
  4. Feb 2, 2018 at 9:29 PM
    #4
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    To me, it sounds like a burnt exhaust valve. Has it ever backfired out the exhaust pipe when you start it up? Maybe it wasn't seated properly when it was rebuilt.
    As a back story, I'm old and have been through my share of Toyota trucks from 1970 on up. I don't recall where on the intake manifold the brake booster vacuum is pulled from, but if it is near the #3 cylinder, it could be creating a lean fuel mixture and the end result is a much hotter cylinder temp.
    This is only from my experience, I used to have a '73 FJ-40 LC. The booster vacuum was pulled from close to the #5/6 cylinders, and as a result a lean fuel mixture occurs. The engine/speed shop I worked with came up with a "fix" for it. We used exhaust valves and exhaust seats from the late '80's Land Cruiser. It was updated technology because of unleaded gas.
    It might be time to take the head off to see whats up.

    Steve
     
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  5. Feb 3, 2018 at 5:20 AM
    #5
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    It has backfired before, so I will pull the head and see what I find. Also there was a small amount of oil on the spark plug when I first took it out, if that helps narrow anything down. Thank you for your knowledge.
     
  6. Feb 14, 2018 at 7:50 PM
    #6
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Found the problem, an exhaust valve is chipped. Can I pit a new one in or what do I have to do?

    20180214_184431.jpg
     
  7. Feb 15, 2018 at 7:47 AM
    #7
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    If it were me and funds were limited, that's exactly what I would do. Just make sure the seat is in good shape and lap (not slap) in a new one. And I'm sure you will take the time to clean and check the rest of the head. New gaskets, blah blah blah. Then you're on your way , good luck.

    Steve
     
    Last edited: Feb 15, 2018
  8. Feb 15, 2018 at 8:05 AM
    #8
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Thank you Steve. Haha it would be nice if we could "slap" in a new one.
     
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  9. Feb 25, 2018 at 7:09 PM
    #9
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    My valve and lap kit should be here tomorrow. My new question is I got new valve seals for all valves, should I disassemble all valves and replace all of them? I would usually just go ahead and do it but the resent rebuild has me hung up so I thought I should ask. Thanks
     
  10. Feb 25, 2018 at 7:40 PM
    #10
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    If it were me, I would. Simply because you will check all the valve seats and if any of them needed a quick spin, you're right there.

    Steve
     
  11. Feb 25, 2018 at 8:09 PM
    #11
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Right, thank you. So will I need to lap every valve?
     
  12. Feb 25, 2018 at 9:24 PM
    #12
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    No, not necessarily. After you release the valves from the keepers and such, just check to see if the valve has good contact with its seat. You'll see what a good contact ring will look like. You can always post a pic of the #3 valve seats when both valves are out of it. I do know it will take some extra time to replace all the seals because I've done it to my old Land Cruiser more than a few times.

    Steve
     
  13. Feb 26, 2018 at 4:38 AM
    #13
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Ok thank you, I will post some pics when I get em out. Thank you again, your input is so helpful and I just want my runner back
     
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  14. Feb 26, 2018 at 9:37 PM
    #14
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Just found something cleaning the top of the block and it made my heart sink and my asshole tighten... can I put gasket sealer over this as it is small or is it down right screwed??

    20180226_223135.jpg
    20180226_223048.jpg
    20180226_223035.jpg
    20180226_223018.jpg
     
  15. Feb 27, 2018 at 9:08 AM
    #15
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    It appears from the shadow that your work light is making, that piece is loose. If it is, try to remove it and see how far under the bracket it goes. The thru bolt in the timing cover has a good enough bite in the iron block, so I don't think it would matter much. If you don't plan on removing the timing cover just make sure that not too much shit from scraping gasket junk falls down in there. That kind of stuff can plug oil passages. Good luck dude, we hope that it turns out for the better.

    Steve
     
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  16. Feb 27, 2018 at 10:00 AM
    #16
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Good news, thank you so much
     
  17. Feb 27, 2018 at 3:37 PM
    #17
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    the little piece is not loose, I think the previous owner must put gasket sealer around it as there is plenty. idk if I stated this before but I am teaching and learning as I go, I got the head off without removing the timing cover, but cleaning I definitely decided it would be a good idea and I have all the necessary gaskets so I should put those on while I have it torn down. when I get the cover off and that piece comes loose, ill check to see how far down it goes, but it looks to be maybe 1/4 inch max
     
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  18. Feb 28, 2018 at 7:01 PM
    #18
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    This is what came out after the bolt.
    What are your thoughts? Seal it in, is it going to be a problem?

    20180228_195717.jpg
    20180228_195659.jpg
    20180228_195504.jpg
    20180228_195457.jpg
     
  19. Feb 28, 2018 at 7:58 PM
    #19
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    I think as long as the mating surface between the block and timing cover is good, it should be alright. I don't think that I would try to piece it back in though, no reason for it.

    Steve
     
  20. Feb 28, 2018 at 8:00 PM
    #20
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Ok, ya it looks like there would be enough surface for a seal, thank you
     
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  21. Mar 1, 2018 at 10:43 AM
    #21
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    Got he cover off and you can see a lot better, but before I just went ahead I wanted to show and get your opinion

    20180301_114058.jpg
     
  22. Mar 1, 2018 at 11:11 AM
    #22
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    It looks like the gasket will provide enough of a seal. After the oil is cleaned up around the bolt hole, you could always put a dab of gasket maker around it.

    Steve
     
  23. Mar 1, 2018 at 11:23 AM
    #23
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    ok great, thank you so much for all the input you've given me. I will put up pics and updates and I'm sure I will have more questions as I continue.
     
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  24. Mar 1, 2018 at 11:51 AM
    #24
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    Hey dude just curious, where on the intake manifold is the brake booster vacuum pulled from?

    Steve
     
  25. Mar 1, 2018 at 12:14 PM
    #25
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I'm not sure that it has power brakes with a booster.. :/ sorry man I in the Chilton book and that shows there would be a vacume line for the booster coming off the master and I have no vacume line on my master
     
  26. Mar 1, 2018 at 1:09 PM
    #26
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    My '78 Hilux had a brake booster unit on it. Maybe the P/O removed it for some reason. Can you post a pic of the engine bay near the master cylinder?

    Steve
     
  27. Mar 1, 2018 at 1:25 PM
    #27
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    If you need more let me know man

    20180301_142436.jpg
     
  28. Mar 1, 2018 at 3:41 PM
    #28
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    Yep that's the vacuum booster. Just to the left (in the pic) of the brake fluid res. is a 90* elbow fitting and the hose that runs along the firewall. That will be the one pulling vacuum from your intake manifold. I was just wondering if the fitting on the intake was near the #3 cylinder.

    Steve

    Ha, my '78 Hilux was a victim of a roll over. Hood, fender, right door and roof from 3 different trucks. And a flat bed on it. I sold that truck in '93 w/289k miles on it. I still see it from time to time.
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2018
  29. Mar 1, 2018 at 3:50 PM
    #29
    SQRL

    SQRL [OP] New Member

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    I was looking at that and thought it was to large for a vacuum line... :/ I feel like an idiot, thanks for letting me know. I have everything torn apart, but I'll go check to see where on the intake that leads to.
     
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  30. Mar 1, 2018 at 3:55 PM
    #30
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    No big deal man. You're gettin it done.

    Steve
     

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