New guy

I did the Powerstop brand and I've been very happy with the calipers...5th gen are better than 4th gens but still seize up...I haven't had any issues with the calipers but I also ran the Powerstop rotors - if you can, stick with OEM rotors as I'm experiencing a little vibration due to I'm assuming warpage; I don't want to have to redo them but if I do, I'll use OEM rotors...they are enough better to keep using...

Toyota will have another Memorial 25% off sale, I suggest looking into that here soon...just have your numbers ready to buy!

 

Thanks for the heads up and the information.

 

I'm looking at brake pads for the front. Some options say they work for 338 or 319 mm rotors. None however say they are for 338 specifically. I would think bigger rotors, for more surface area, for better stopping power would need bigger pads. What am I missing here?

 

Agree if you get bigger rotors, you need more pads. I got the big break kit by powerbrakes..and the pads are bigger than OEM's.

 

So this is what I've got going on. Akebono pads, centric rotors and power stop calipers. On rock Auto, I didn't see power stop front calipers that specified 338mm for my 03 so I changed the year to a 2012 5th Gen and they have them. With the akebono front pads I also chose the ones listed for 5th Gen. Then I chose the centric 338mm rotors.
It should work right? I mean, people that want to go bigger do the 5th Gen upgrade, which is essentially what my 4th gen sport has right? Is the big brake upgrade larger?

 

I just looked at your big brake kit. Good for you, ouch though $$.

 

You are correct on on your questions...the BBK is 345mm I thought, barely larger...5th gen 338mm is the same as 4th gen sport or limited with v8...centric is top notch as well as the akebono pads!

 

Awesome thank you for the confirmation. Your kits pretty sweet btw. I think I'm pretty much piecing together the power stop Z36 kit only without slotted rotors.

 

Thank you! That's a better move...I'm not sold on slotted...blanks are the way!

 

Just verified what's in the cart is the same as power stop Z36 kit however the rotors are centric semi-coated 'blanks' instead of slotted rotors and I'm sub totaled at $868.94. With the money "saved" I got some extended steal braided/kevlar front and rear brake lines from Mudify for $148 shipped

 

Wait for a memorial day sale...trust me! Fred Anderson (Toyota parts dealer/dealership) has an amazing one and frankly, so does Brakes.com...where I got my setup for $550 shipped 2 years ago!

 

Made progress this weekend. Couldn't wait for deals on brakes unfortunately. Could hear the metal on metal progress quickly over the past week lol. Also got in there and couldn't put it back together with those old blown open CV axles. Also in preparation for future lift I installed extended front and rear brake lines from Mudify.

 

After setting it back on the ground, you can see in the one photo my "negative" CV angle. Makes for good droop but it ain't ideal lol. UCAs obviously point up too. Can't wait to get the new suspension on but gotta save and figure out how much weight I will be adding. 80% off-road has a dual swing out that welds to factory points instead of a whole new bumper. I may go that route.

 

That's a good weekend of work! Bed those babies in, when you can, and keep knocking out your updates!! Woot woot!!

 

They were smoking a little bit but I think I bedded them ok. A few moderately aggressive stops from a fairly moderate speed.....then an increase of both lol.

 

That outta do! Nice work! The setup looks great!

 

Thank you sir.

 

I do however wish my pedal was a little more firm. Overall it stops well but I wish I could get the firmness more at the top vs half way or a little past. Flushed with new fluid and bleed it twice.

 

I hear ya, and I experienced the same results, however, now it's ultra sensitive, which I've grown to like...I think we're rocking the same setup, mostly, but I did use brake pad grease/glue and have taken the brake pad pins out a couple times to wire brush clean and lube up...it's been VERY responsive since...give it a month of driving and look at the pins to ensure they're letting the pads and caliper to work properly...they do get gummed up in some conditions...though, we JUST ended winter driving here in the mountains.

 

I'm running 255/80/17 as well on SCS 17x8.5 -10 offset wheels.

 

When you bleed your brakes, did you have your key on (engine off) for the rear and the front or on only for the rear then off for the front?

 

I had the key on so the ABS pump worked and cycled...it took awhile as I don't have a techstream tool that could open the ABS pump and make it faster...I started on the Passenger Rear, than the Drivers Rear, next was Passenger Front and finally Drivers Front...I did this probably 3 times and then went to drive it and did one last time and it's been good and actually got better...burp those lines!

 

Thanks. That's how I did it, only twice though, I will do it a couple more times and I will burp them. I was just asking cuz I saw a video on YouTube where the guy turned the key off for the front and had a partner pump and hold them traditional style.

 

Gotcha, the ABS pump is "on" when being used for all corners of the truck, so I assumed you need it left on to bleed and burp...I could be wrong but it did work well when I performed it. You're so close!

 

Got home from work and burped the lines. The back was a good full flow but the fronts did let out a little amount of fiz/bubbles. Overall they feel a little better. Will try again tomorrow. In the front I did it both ways by the way. Key on acc and again with it off. With the key on it never really pressurizes, with the key off it acts like what I'm familiar with older vehicles. I dunno

 

https://youtu.be/pIQtCjfvCOA?si=b7IqIAYieTCMf58j
Saw this video. Thought; I need to do mine since the driver side is torn. Well, didn't realize it's not recommended and Toyota only sells the whole assembly. I'm still thinking about tackling the ball joint replacement. I've been communicating with exit off road about a Dobinsons lift, I decided on 2.5" - 1.5" lift. I was planning on JBA UCAs too. Would super pro lowers be too much for the caster/camber adjustments with only 2.5 lift and are the ball joints in the super pro lowers replaceable/serviceable?

 

Ok, here is the description from Apache off-road for the super pro lower control arms. If I'm comprehending correctly they are saying the ball joints are replaceable with OEM sized ball joints. Does anyone have a part # for these? All I find are moog and O'Reilly's/AutoZone. I guess they're OEM "sized" but not technically OEM?OEM would be Toyota which only sells the entire arm! Also it looks like the same process as in the video in my previous post. So what's the difference in serviceability? What am I missing? My only desire with super pros would be to try and keep the tire farther forward in the fender well in an attempt to better clear the body mount with only 2.5" of lift. However I'm sure I'll still need the bmc for 255-80/17s so is the cost of the LCA worth it vs just getting some O'Reilly's ball joints and replicating the process in the video?
Thanks everyone.