RCI - Quality stuff or meh?

Lol this will be me, I’ll own sliders, but not the 4Runner that they go onto.

 

get that gen 6 and give the gen 5 sliders to your buddy!

 

Seriously this. Stripping sliders (any sliders) of paint and rust is incredibly time consuming. I’m using a grinder with coarse flap wheel and wire wheel. I’m hoping to get it done or else I got nothing for the first wheeling trip of the year.

It’s a practical lesson on how much surface area can exist on a tube lol.

 

Why not just grind it in targeted rust spots? Apply paint over.. so it’s not perfectly even looking, but who cares for a part that will be frequently banged on by rocks?

I have a quart of rustoleum that I brush on, when I have targeted nicks. No need to spray paint and deal with shielding the car from overspray

 

I ‘ve been doing spot treatments since last year, by scraping and brushing on rustoleum.

The scratches off road aren’t the really the problem. Those are easy to manage. The problem is the rust that has traveled underneath the powder coat pretty evenly across all of it.

 

God damn!! Powder coat permits rust underneath like that?!

is that an rci slider? Those vertical tabs seem pretty useless? More surface area to maintain

 

These are from Caliraised led. I think any paint or any powdercoat will stick only as good as the steel was prepped. Most of the bubbles started at chips caused be gravel. With the salt used on the roads, if the powdercoat adhesion isn’t perfect, then rust will start growing behind it and peels it off, a lot of it by hand or with a scraper. The rust goes deep in these areas, to where I’m removing a significant amount of material before getting to bright shiny steel.

However, there are areas of good adhesion where it’s even difficult to remove the powder coat with a grinder/flap wheel


It’s an all around pain in the ass lol. I’m hoping to prep it well enough for it to last 3 or 4 years. Then, maybe it’s easier to get new ones lol.

edit: the tabs are for reinforcement brackets. These were probably bolt-on purely for shipping/packaging purposes.

 

damn!? Those older cali raised sliders look pretty poorly designed. Round tubes and use less brackets + hardware.

where are you? Rust belt? Your 4R frame doesn’t fare too well either I assume ?

 

My frame is still spotless, because it’s covered in thick crusty dirty layers of woolwax. It’s only a few years old though…

The slider design isn’t so bad on these to be honest. Plenty of bolts to the frame, and the rear plates wrap around the bottom. That way it’s not just the bolts taking sheer loads. They’ve been put to moderate use off road with no problems. Plenty strong for rock pivots and mild/short drops onto them with the weight of the vehicle. I prefer not to subject my frame to what the sliders might be able to take lol.

 

I have a full set of RCI skid plates plus the RCI gas tank cover. Did some superficial damage to them this weekend on a serious trail - RCI makes great stuff. I’m getting their Rock sliders next.

 

Has anyone modified their RCI transmission skid for easier front diff and transfer case fluid flushes?

I contacted RCI about why they didn't have cutouts in these locations. Something about compatibility across a couple different vehicles? I don't remember exactly what they told me.

As of now I have to drop all the skids to gain access to these drain plugs and not make a giant mess.
I was considering taking my acetylene torch to them...

 

Xfer and front diff access for fluid change doesn't bug me as much as dropping for greasing driveshafts. Hoping someone has a mod for this. Every 30k for fluid changes is not as much of a pain every 5k to lube.

 

Easy to say with those lightweight aluminum skids

 

Every time I have to pull the skids I think the aluminum is plenty heavy duty and don't need steel.

The tricks we all come up with contorting ourselves under truck balancing skids trying to get a couple bolts started.

 

Cutting torch for me next time they come down then lol

 

I was wondering if you guys think the removable top plate (now attached with screws vs. being welded on) creates more opportunity for micromotion and ultimately salt to find its way into the crevices and lead to rusting issues.

 

This might be a concern. On other brand sliders there have been feedback top plate has caused rusting. This was welded on. Maybe removing and cleaning will help.

 

On my rsg slider with welded top plate, dirt collects in every crevice. I imagine if that’s salt, it can be the start of a rust situation

 

Or maybe the removal plate is better for salt to not get stuck and decreases risk of rust.

 

But those holes will attract moisture inside and salt brine.

lol can’t win

 

Personally going back and forth between RCI and RSG sliders for the past few months. Haven't been able to commit to one yet and so I keep reading the same threads over and over. Regardless, I'll be going flat + kick out for the kiddos.

Pros: RCI - they look better; RSG - welded top plate
Cons: RCI - concern about the screwed on top plate; RSG - stick out a lot and personally think they look goofy

My thought is that I can fluid-film the screw holes on the RCI top plate. I could also be diligent with making sure I hose them off in the winter every few weeks.
As for RSG, I have read complaints of rust on the underside of the slider where the plate is welded.

 

Man it’s been almost six weeks since I placed my order with them for my sliders. They must be busy. Can hardly wait to put them on. Got some trails I’m excited to check out now that I’ll have a little protection.

 

I have RCI skids with no issues

 

I originally had RSGs with the welded top plate. Sold them for that reason and installed their bare tube version. Lesson learned. Happy now.

 

I have a full set of RCI skids and have the same complaint with accessing front drive shaft zerks. This was and is my solution for easing removal and replacement of plates. I removed the T-Handle and drive the jack via socket with my Makita.

Plates roll in and out balanced on the stand (15" x 9") with no effort. Extends to almost 18" which is perfect.

To the OP's question, I have RCI's aluminum skids front to back and have been very happy with them knowing from the start they would not be as rugged as steel but are adequate for my use and saved weight. No issues with fitment.

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My new rear diff skid is showing up tomorrow (ordered a month ago). Their site said something like a 4-6 week delay on items that were not in stock. They've also had sales running, so I'm sure that's draining stock and adding to delays. I'd bet you get them soon. Estimated times seem to be pretty accurate.