Help with suspension setup

as the video is shot in a garage with Ironman parts all over the wall

You do you man. Ironman wasn’t ever up for debate in this topic anyways

 

No, but you just called it Chinese crap, as you did in the thread about the winch that about burnt up. And from the looks, it may have been wires rubbing.

And I asked why no Iron man, and so far you are the only one and you just gave the blanket it was made in China statement.

 

because it’s the truth?
Ironman doesn’t sit in the same category as the names mentioned by the OP.

And I don’t know what winch thread you’re taking about, but I tell people to get harbor freight winches all the time. Even those are better than Ironman

 

https://www.4runners.com/threads/ironman-4x4-avoid-at-all-costs.33825/

 

my comment holds true lmao

 

https://youtu.be/huMztKaHsUE?si=9lWl1ICKIfWl1E6p

 

I don’t think you ever said it was user error, or bad install from what I gather from reading the feedback.

OP-sorry for the hijack, I’ll stop now. But I still want to know why Ironman didn’t make your list.

 

Hey yall, thanks for all the inputs. Sorry for the late response.

I wanted a kit that can be easily serviced or tuned in both coasts of the USA as I am in the military. But I honestly also wanted a product manufactured from the USA, if I was going to spend a lot of money. Fox and Kings being the most popular in our community and largest companies for suspension in the USA met those needs/want. (Nothing against products manufactured in China, but I prefer certain products to be manufactured in certain countries depending on the costs and purpose).

I think I read somewhere that Dobinsons are made/manufactured in China, but more and more shops are opening up to service Dobinsons in the USA so they made it to my list. I think Dobinsons has really started to impact the USA market, compared to Ironman, which means more shops will open up to the idea of becoming certified to service Dobinsons on both Coasts. And I understand Ironman and Dobinsons are huge in the AUS market, but not in the USDM at this moment.

Sorry if my answer doesnt make sense, but this is how my brain works, especially when the products cost a lot of money.

 

And it looks like Accutune released their new product today...

 

Thank you.
From my understanding.
Ironman shocks don’t need to be rebuilt like the others and they are actually easier to do, because of the foam cell setup.

 

+1 for Dobinson IMS.

Really pleased with mine.

 

Glad I saw this. Hand't heard of it before while researching. But you're saying once you moved the sway bar, it was hitting support bracket... for what? Your aftermarket skids? Or it was hitting an OEM bracket/mount/part of some sort? And you had to fabricate your own spacers? What's the point of buying a "kit" from a place like Accutune if it doesn't actually come with everything you need to properly install stuff without clearance issues?

 

Another vote for Dobinsons IMS. I switched over from an Eibach setup and I'm very pleased with the IMS.

I use my 4R as a daily driver and do about 4-6 trips a year. Dob IMS suits my needs perfectly.

If you decide to pass on the MRR's, put the extra money towards the billet UCA.

 

I believe most kits provide swaybar relocation kit. I think Fox does provide a swaybar relocation kit, but you have to purchase separately for Dobinsons (the option and explanation is provided when you select the shocks on Exit Offroad website). Mr Mike at Exit told me it really depends on the springs and the lift height, whether or not the aftermarket skid plate might hit the sway bar.

 

Do you think I need billet UCA? i was planning on just getting JBA standard ones.

 

Most people don't need the billet UCA other than adding some bling. They are sexy for sure.


There are two main types of UCAs on the market: billet and tubular. Billet UCAs are typically made from a solid piece of aluminum, while tubular UCAs are made from a hollow tube of steel or aluminum. Both types have their own set of pros and cons, and the best option for your vehicle will depend on your specific needs and preferences.

One of the key advantages of billet UCAs is their strength and durability. Because they are made from a solid piece of material, they are less likely to bend or break under heavy loads or in the event of an accident. They are also typically more precise and have a higher level of adjustability, which can be a big plus for those looking to fine-tune their suspension setup.

Tubular UCAs, on the other hand, are generally considered to be more lightweight and offer improved suspension travel. The hollow design of the tube makes them less stiff than billet UCAs, which can help to improve the ride quality of your vehicle. They are also generally less expensive than billet UCAs, making them a more budget-friendly optio

 

I'm just confused on what, exactly, was hitting what. We're talking about clearance issues between a relocated OEM sway bar and an aftermarket skid plate? Or a factory component somewhere?

 

I think, when you install larger diameter coils, it may require you to move the sway bar forward, which may cause the swaybar to now come in contact with aftermarket skid plates. So you will need to add spacers to the skid plate bolts to make room for the sway bar. I think tacomas also have this issue but many of them just completely remove the sway bar.

 

Thanks for your explanation! I think im just going to go with JBA or other simple tubular with rubber bushings (OEM + styles). I dont want heim joints etc and dont really want to stress about UCA maintenance. As stated, i might go with JBA or put little more $$ for tubular dobinsons for my simple build.

 

You don't need the billet version. I ran both the tubular & billet from Dobinsons and learned quite a bit about alignment in the process. Strength & durability aside, the billet version offers significantly more adjustability as opposed to their tubular design.

I didn't upgrade mine for "bling" factor. Upon upgrading from the OEM UCA's to the tubular Dobs, my wheels got pushed back further towards the cab and I could not achieve the alignment specs I wanted, due to their limited adjustability. Aftermarket UCA's tend to position the upper ball joint further "backwards" so you need less adjustment from the lower control arm to regain caster figures. In my experience, swapping the UCA's resulted in less caster, and lots of rubbing from my 285/70's, that did not rub at all with the OEM UCA. Adjustability was limited, and after multiple attempts to correct, I decided to invest in a more adjustable UCA to solve my particular issue. Watch the video from "Tinkerer's Adventure" on this subject, it's very informative.

I should have been more clear in my previous comment; My suggestion was to take the savings difference from MRR vs IMS and invest in a UCA that offers higher levels of adjustability, in order to "future proof" in case your alignment needs change in the future. Sounds like you've already got this down with the JBA's though...I've read lots of positive reviews both on 4R forums and Tacomaworld about those!

 

I just watched the Accutune's video and checked their website. It costs the same as the Fox 2.5 Performance Elites, which were out of my budget =(

I would love to get them though, I like their reservoir and DSC design better than Fox.

 

Ok got it, thank you. So not an issue unless you're running those aftermarket skid plates.

 

Right... I don't have RCI skids. I don't have any aftermarket skids and I don't plan on running any. So this shouldn't be an issue?

 

this looks like its from the Fox instructions. The quality and black/white picture makes it look like its from the 60s.

 

bumping this thread to share my experience with OEM suspension with 265/70r17 Ko2 C rating (air downed to 25 psi). Only had maxtraxx, large air pump, and ratchet set in the trunk.

Went to Orosco Truck trail and, in my opinion, I definitely had to chance to test out the OEM suspension. I researched the trail on youtube and google, and thought it would be easy, but it was more technical that I expected, for a noob. This is only my 3rd trail.

Primary objective of the trip was to have fun, learn, relax, and engage 4Lo for scheduled maintenance.

During the trail, I ended up hitting my bump stops (I think) and skid plate, and stretching/bottoming out my suspension. I even ended up teetering on two wheels. This trail definitely tested my patience with very slow speeds, but I used this opportunity to lube up the 4Lo drivetrain.

From this experience, I definitely need new bump stops and a more supportive suspension/shock system. Definitely felt too soft on small whoops/washboards (not sure on the terms) on the trail where i was moving left and right too much and bouncing up and down while going 5-10 mph.

Any insight would be helpful to my initial post about which suspension to get with this experience.
For the UCA, i changed my decision to Dirt King ball joint cause they changed their bushings to the Pro2 series.

 

These UCA's?
https://dirtking.com/collections/4runner/products/bushing-upper-control-arms-dk-812902

For suspension my vote still goes to Dobinsons IMS. Extended travel version if your budget can swing it (trailing arms are necessary.)
MRR extended travel if you're a baller and wheel a lot.

 

Nope, these
https://dirtking.com/collections/4runner/products/ball-joint-upper-control-arms-dk-812991

I like MRRs and i think they would provide better specs for my needs compared to other 2.5 race shocks, but i dont like the routing and mounting method of the MRRs.

 

Mounting the MRR's reservoir can be a little tricky but I'd rather have too much hose than not enough.
I went IMS long travel and I'm super happy with them.