What have you done to your 4th Gen 4Runner today?

The rear discs have a built in drum, which is where the parking brake pads make contact. No, not super difficult to rebuild.

 

Just an FYI, for proper terminology on drum brakes the friction linings are referred too as "shoes" not pads as it is with disk brakes, so it "brake shoes" for drum brakes and "brake pads" for disk brakes.

 

Always calling me out on my messed up terminology... I'm old, gimme a break! You knew what I meant

Lol, it's all good.

 

I was mostly posting it to educate others who might not know or just learning!

I'm as old as dirt, so I'm set in my ways, but I like to teach if I know the subject matter, I can't take it with me so I would like to leave something that others may benefit from even it's just some info.

 

No, I completely agree and have no issues with you correcting anything I post. Better that than have incorrect info out there. Just giving you shit is all!

 

TPMS sensors replaced this morning. TPMS light off, but now VSC TRAC and VSC OFF lights are on solid.

I thought i read somewhere there is a calibration that needs to be done, but i don't know how to do that. Any tips? Googling now.

 

Possibly resolved with a Zero Point Calibration, look for that. I have links on my home computer but not here at work, sorry.

 

Ya, i like this guys stuff. He's very detailed in his explanations so i will try this method:

https://thetrackahead.com/projects/...ero-point-calibration-4th-gen-toyota-4runner/

 

Also found this YouTube video which makes it look pretty simple.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4W8FW50OJnY

will try this procedure once i can find a level surface to park on.

 

Sweet, performed the zero point calibration. Lights off, took her for a drive to get gas and no lights came back on. Success!

Finally, no lights on the dashboard!

 

Replaced drivers side front door and rear hatch belt moldings. They were pretty much falling apart and pieces hanging down into the window channels. All good now.

 

Changed the spark plugs with OEM Toyota P/N's. Holy hell the drivers side was a pain in the ass. Also, whoever did them last torqued them down with an impact gun... i swear i was going to break off multiple plugs trying to remove them. Then, one plug on the passenger side was like hand tight loosey goosey.

Either way, job done. Started up fine and drove up and down the street.

Pic of old plugs:



Gaps weren't actually that bad. I just didn't have any records of when they were last changed so figured it would be a good idea to get a baseline.

 

May have been @xtremewlr but someone recommended carrying a spare coil pack in the vehicle. Is that something I should stick with OEM? They are like $100. Or would aftermarket do fine?

 

Wasn't me.

Denso coils are OEM and the only coil you should use, are $55 each from rockauto.com - https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=2140934&cc=1418240&pt=7060&jsn=928

Always check the body of the coils for cracks when you do spark plugs. I recently replaced all 8 coils in my truck with new Densos from rock auto. The originals had 328,400 miles on them and were still working but I found cracks in most of them when I did plugs last. I change spark plugs every 50k miles, even with the IR plugs.

 

Ya I checked and wiped off all the coils when I did the spark plugs the other day. They all looked pretty good. Just dust and a little bit of grime.

 

I replaced 1 of 2 bad o2 sensors on my driver side. The other one I'll do tomorrow I'm too mad at it right now lol! It's rusted on there

 

PB Blaster. Warm the engine up a little, not full hot. Turn it off and crawl under there and hose it down with PB Blaster. Let it soak overnight. It will suck into the threads as it cools.

 

Just got back from a road trip. SoCal to NorCal and back… about 1400 miles with all the other places we drove around to. 4runner took it like a champ

I calculated a couple highway only fill ups and got high 18’s. The info cluster ‘mode’ average mpg said 20.1mpg on one tank but no way that’s accurate.

 

Pb blaster didn't work and my dumb ass stripped the o2 sensor bolt. I have to take it to the shop I guess sigh. Maybe a pipe wrench would work?

 

Hello,
My friend asked me to find a 03-09 4RUNNER to test the tail lights and wanted the tester to make a copy of the installation instructions.
Is anyone interested? He will ship the product for free, the product is in California, and you don't need to pay any amount.
If you are interested, please contact cartrimhome.
Thank you
https://youtu.be/6o980t1tt0Q

 

I'd be willing to test these for him. So I just contact them via the website linked in the video? Is there a specific person to contact?

 

Question: since my steering rack end boots are showing signs of minimal leaking, I want to start thinking about replacing the steering rack at some point. Online it looks like a remanufactured rack from CVJ is a good option and a low cost. However, are there other "upgraded" racks I can swap... i.e. like a newer 4runner rack or Tundra rack that would be beefier or have some other benefit?

For example, on my old 1998 Cobra mustang I replaced the steering rack with a 2003 cobra rack because it was beefier and offered better turning radius via some internal valving/gearing (not really familiar with steering racks, lol) i just knew from my internet research that the 03 cobra rack was better, and fit without modification.

 

Unless you are planning on getting into rockcrawling, you really don't need a beefier steering rack. Besides, that, Tundra and some Land Cruiser racks are common upgrades but do require a fair amount of modifications to mount them.

Your best bet for a normal, daily driven 4runner is to stick with OEM or a good quality rebuild rack. Check Rockauto.com, they usually have good quality parts and a large selection. Prices I am seeing on Rockauto.com range from $216 to about $450, depending on brand. I don't know which is the better choice as I don't have personal experience with replacing the rack on a 4runner, yet.

OEM Toyota rack is listed at $615 on McGeorge - https://toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com/oem-parts/toyota-rack-and-pinion-4420035061

 

Thanks for the reply, not looking to do any extra modifications so I’ll stick with OEM or quality aftermarket. Probably won’t tackle this for a little while I’m tired of spending money on this beast at the moment lol

 

Hello,please contact sales@cartrimhome.com

 

240k mile oil change. 5w-30 full synthetic and added the Fumoto valve. Skid plate was kind of a pain i think i need all new skid plate bolts as they all seemed a little stripped.

Anyone know the skid plate bolt P/N off the top of your head? I'll research and purchase some new ones.

The old oil filter was not the Toyota P/N and was actually smaller than the correct OEM filter so glad i have an OEM filter on there now.

 

Skid plate bolts themselves don't strip out usually, so check the threads carefully. It's more often the bolt holes thanks to ham fisted oil change people cross threading them over the years. Best fix is to use Time-Sert thread repairs for them but Helicoil also works.

Skid plate bolts part # is 9011908A33. Or you can use any M8x1.25 thread x 25mm or so long bolt with washer.

 

The bolts on there now weren’t all the same so they’ve been lost/replaced at some point. Would like to get them all OEM again so thanks for the part number. I’ll check the threads on the holes themselves, hopefully those aren’t cross threaded.

 

Working on routing the replacement backup / parking sensor output up to the front along with the new blind spot detection indicators. Decided to install a Brandmotion Blind Spot detection system (RDBS-1500) while I had the new bumper housing off to do the parking sensors. All the result of some yo-yo clipping me coming onto the interstate at the end of Nov. I might also get new TPMS sensors ordered today as batteries are now dead in 4 of the 5 rims.

 

Interesting, I had no idea you could get aftermarket blind spot setups. Pretty neat.