TRD PRO OWNERS -REMOVE SKID PLATE BEFORE OIL CHANGES

This is my experience today. Took the TRDP into the dealer for a "Toyota Care" oil change. Noticed through the glass windows at the shop that the mechanic was having a difficult time while removing and installing the front skid plate. Used a pneumatic wrench and I just knew he stripped the thread/bolts. And he did.

I Did not bother to look under the rig until driving back home and noticed 1 bolt and spacer was missing. Went back to the shop and had them inspect the damage and all holes (threads)for the 4 bolts had been damaged so much that the bolts would just fall out.

Lesson here, don't let anyone use a pneumatic wrench on those 4 bolts. The front bolts are different length than the rear bolts. Don't get these confused as this will strip the threads. Take the skid plate off with a socket/torque wrench, mark the bolts and then drive it over to the dealer. Hope this helps you PRO Guys

 

Yep. Every time.

 

Damn that sucks, are they going to replace it? Who the hell uses air tools on aluminum?

 

I should know better too. I also have a king ranch f-350 that no one touches but me. Lesson learned.

 

Every mechanic out there who is on the clock. That are mostly savages....

 

They brought a machine out and rethreaded the holes, not sure how long that will hold up, and used larger bolts. Really pissed me off.

 

I agree. Free or not, I'll do my own maintenance from now on.

 

I hope you got that documented. I don't let dealerships get away with anything. They left a wrench in the engine bay, serialized and all. Made them put it on the sheet when I drove back.

 

Yay. They prob screwed my under carriage up pretty good. Can't trust anyone these days. I feel like I'm playing cards with my brothers kids.

 

Sorry to hear. When I got after market aluminum lug nuts for my wheels. I specifically told the dealer I'll pay extra but please make sure they are hand tightened. They assured me they knew what they were doing but what do you know they used a pneumatic wrench knicked the lug nuts badly but that's not the worse part. Slowly but surely it stripped the studs and caused them to spin freely. How did I know this??? One day I was driving and the vibration got so bad I thought it wa due to cupping but actually the lug nuts worked themselves loose. When I pulled over I saw I lost a lug nut when the stud snapped off. Tightened the wheel back up and promptly went to the dealer who in fear of a lawsuit fixed the hub replacing all the studs on the front wheels bought me a whole new set of lug nuts as well. Now I make sure whenever aluminum is involved hand torque!!!

 

Shit like this makes me see Crimson. Get a Fumoto drain valve and be done with an oil change in 15 minutes from now on. I hate the fact that sometimes we are at the mercy of folks who never treat our property with respect. I do nearly all my own maintenence that doesnt involve a scanner or a slushbox. Even if the mechanic does a good job, the truck is usually parked in such a tight spot you need a damn can opener to get in. Hence sliders likely my first +$500 purchase for my new Trail

 

Be careful when it's time for service. Or do it yourself. Don't let them screw that beauty up.

 

thanks for all the advice. So with the break in process you took your rig in at 2,500 for an oil change???

 

I would change it at 2500. The again at 5000 and evry 5000 after that. I'm a little weird about that. Lol

 

I guess I'm weird also because that totally makes sense to me. My mind has been put at ease.

 

Dealer told me 5k when I pressed the issue about break in and seating rings, etc. I was told they break in at factory and run synth from mile 1...this may be fact or fiction, I truly dont know and will dump my oil and put Mobil1 ExP at 2500 along with a Fumoto drain valve...and then go every 5k.

 

I think that is very wise.

 

Does anyone have the torque settings for the front skid plate???

 

Don't have a setting, do be careful. I would snug them Up then A quarter turn. Check on a regular bases for tightness.

 

I still have the paperwork from when I bought mine from Toyota. Quite a comprehensive instruction sheet for something so simple...

The torque specs are .. 30 N.m or 22ft/lb.

I don't know if this instruction sheet is available online for part #

$380 PT938-00140 Skid Plate, Front

PT938-00140.

If there's enough interest, I can scan the document and post it.

 

Great find! Thanks sooo much this is awesome!!!

 

Ahh,

Found the instruction sheet posted elsewhere.. Hope it helps.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/5163953-post56.html

 

You sir are a scholar and a gentleman. Thank you!!!

 

You guys are awesome. Thank you.

 

Wow. It sucks you can't trust the dealers half/most the time. I'm coming up on my 1st scheduled oil change (probably do it early, I'm at 7200 now) and I have half a mind to just do it myself. Geez.

 

Has anyone else had issues like this? Last thing I want are stripped out bolt holes for the skid plate...or anything else.

 

I would strongly consider doing it yourself. The problem lies with the mechanic not seeing enough of these in the shop. The bolts on the skid plate are different sizes front to back so they need to be marked with paint. If you get them confused and in the wrong holes, it with strip the internal threads.

My Tundra and new cement 4Runner (if it ever arrives) will not see in the inside of any shop for regular maintenance. YouTube the service and it will walk you straight through, not difficult at all.

 

Yeah, I've read up on how to change the oil. Looks easy enough. I used to always change my oil on my old Bronco. Got spoiled and always let the dealer do the Mazda I had.

I let the dealer do the 5k service. Also had to have the seat track replaced. Had too much play. Not happy about that...half the reason I got rid of the Mazda was seat track issues.

 

Hello all. I'm new to this site, but I've been around 4wheel forums for for a long time. I've had my 2016 trail 4runner for 1500 miles and I have 5 years of oil changes coming to me. I had some issues with the dealer servicing my tundra in it's first 4 years, so I think I'll be removing my own skid plates before I take it in for its first oil change at 5000 miles.
I look forward to new discussion of 4runners. I'm Toyota thru and thru but my last 4runner was a 1998 1st gen 2.0 fuel injected wonder. The last year for 1st generation.

 

Thanks very much!
I believe in proper torque!