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Too much oil?

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by Underground.runnah, Jun 12, 2025 at 8:50 AM.

  1. Jun 12, 2025 at 2:45 PM
    #31
    5thToy

    5thToy New Member

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    Drain and add 6.6 always puts me in the middle of the hatched indicator band on the dipstick
     
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  2. Jun 12, 2025 at 3:55 PM
    #32
    hossler1788

    hossler1788 Turtle

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    your literally driving a truck with the most bulletproof engine in automotive history.

    Fyi for future reference. When I change oil and filter(every 10k miles). I put in 6qts then drive for a few miles, check(cold) and add oil if needed.
     
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  3. Jun 12, 2025 at 4:53 PM
    #33
    Captain Spalding

    Captain Spalding . . .

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    That’s where it’s supposed to be. From the manual:
    IMG_4454.jpg
    Note that if the oil is filled to the top dimple that is considered “excessive”. I’m just the messenger …
     
  4. Jun 12, 2025 at 4:54 PM
    #34
    HuskyMike

    HuskyMike New Member

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    First confirm you're reading the dipstick correctly. Like other posts mentioned, it's notoriously difficult to read. Take the dipstick out and wipe it off, but don't reinsert it. Wait 10 minutes or longer and try to read it again. Last time I changed my oil, I didn't come back for about an hour. I was shocked at how easy the oil level was to read.
     
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  5. Jun 12, 2025 at 5:58 PM
    #35
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    The way I read it is that 'normal' is anywhere from the bottom dimple to the top dimple. Therefore it's still considered 'normal' at the top dimple.
     
  6. Jun 12, 2025 at 7:09 PM
    #36
    Captain Spalding

    Captain Spalding . . .

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    I think you’re right. But OP’s half inch over is firmly in the excessive range.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2025 at 7:34 PM
    nimby likes this.
  7. Jun 13, 2025 at 2:04 AM
    #37
    Matt83

    Matt83 New Member

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    I have always taken 7 quarts exactly to get to full on the dipstick.
     
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  8. Jun 13, 2025 at 4:55 AM
    #38
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    Have you checked your oil level before on a level spot, and are confident of your technique to get an accurate reading? That is, the @nimby method.

    At this point:
    1. Get it level
    2. Take out dipstick
    3. Use sandpaper and a sharp pointed tool (like a box cutter blade tip) to rough up the dipstick end and create a cross hatch pattern. This should take about 10 minutes.
    4. Clean it off, re-insert, pull out. Haha
    5. Check level. Due to the slope of the oil tube one side of the stick will give you a good reading while other side is smeared.
    5. If still over the top indicator drain enough oil to get the level correct.
    6. In the future only put 6.0 quarts in, turn on engine for a minute, check for leaks, turn off, pull out stick, wait 5-10 minutes, check oil level with dipstick to note the level. Put a little more oil in to get to about half way to top. Turn on engine for 5-10 minutes to warm up, or drive around the block before re-checking and topping it up.
     
    icebear, ChessGuy and nimby like this.
  9. Jun 13, 2025 at 7:33 AM
    #39
    ChessGuy

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    Too many..... Performance: • Magnusum Supercharger • Gibson exhaust with dual black tip • Pedal Commander * PowerBrakes • Suspension – Old Man Emu BP-51 front and back with Medium load coils • Tires: AT3 Faulken Wildpeak – 285/70/17 • Wheels: Relations Race Wheels, RR7-H with -12 offset • Full roof rack and ladder by Westcott Design (removed the stock Yakima basket) • Molle storage panels by Rago fabrication • Front light brackets by Rago • Illuminator light bracket by Rago (roof rack location) Lights • Morimoto front and back with sequential signals • Morimoto fog lights and side mirrors with sequential signals • 40” Baja design light bar for roof rack • 20” S8 Baja design driving combo (winch location) • Squadron sport baja design ditch lights • S2 Chase lights by baja designs (mounted on roof) In the bay: • Odyssey 34-PC Battery • SDQH Aluminum billet battery terminals and bracket • Switch Pro 9100 with aluminum tray • Anytime front and back camera • ARB twin compressor Recovery & Protection: • Smittybilt X20 synthetic rope winch • Factor 55 fairlead and flatlink • Southern Style Off-road (SSO) low profile bumper • SSO stage 2 high clearance wings • Weekend warrior recovery kit by treaty oak • RCI – skid plates – entire vehicle + catalytic converter protection wings Interior: • Nano Ceramic IR – Avery Dennison Window tint – all windows • Several phone mounts • Upgraded Rear Hatch lift gate struts (ladder is heavy) • Boom blaster horn switch (featuring La cucaracha)
    :deadhorse: boy have we given it all we got to this thread. @OP, you got more opinions and answers to your questions that you could ever imagine! Your rig is fine. Now show us your pictures and your work so that we can get more mileage out of this thread!:jellydance:
     
  10. Jun 13, 2025 at 8:25 AM
    #40
    glwood54

    glwood54 Stop making me buy stuff!

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    If we really wanted to spice up this thread, we could ask the OP when he is planning to change his oil next...:crapstorm:
     
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  11. Jun 13, 2025 at 8:50 AM
    #41
    LuLu

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    At least 4 Oil filter leaks after servicing at Dealership since 2022.
    Had to go back after several days for correction.

    Oil filter must be difficult to get to? Unlike the highlander
     
  12. Jun 13, 2025 at 9:24 AM
    #42
    Lc200

    Lc200 New Member

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    The oil filter is right there once you remove the skid plate. It's all the tools the morons use to tighten it that makes it a pain to remove it or don't tighten it enough. Basically the lowest mechanic works on oil changes so that's what you get.
    All it needs is hand tight. And yes, the plastic casing will last you the life of the car.
     

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