Those with the Magnuson Supercharger...

Once they make them CARB legal so OTT will tune them I’ll get them day 1! That is honestly the only thing holding me back.

 

I know a guy that is willing to look the other way

 

There are old pilots and bold pilots. There are no old bold pilots.

Tuning to bypass emissions and having long term support for your tune are mutually exclusive.

 

Done this many times in the past, but since this is my overlanding rig and must be reliable I can’t bring myself to do it, but I can’t wait till some carb legal ones (from anyone reputable) come along.

 

I've got a tune and a pedal commander on my 4Runner and it's better but at highway speeds I notice some lack of throttle response. You really have to push on the gas around 65-70 miles per hour to pass another vehicle.

Researching the Maggy tune and just wondering if it will fix that?

 

The Magnuson tune is the tune that is put on when you install the Supercharger. It will absolutely fix the issue you are talking about. With my vehicle having the blower installed I can go from 40-80 in no time at all.

 

What exhaust/cat back mods compliment the Maggie? I installed the Y-pipe, but on the fence of adding a less restrictive cat back.

 

^I installed the magnaBlow overland series, not because of performance or anything but because of the extra clearance on the exit and the exhaust piece itself. Magnuson discourages putting these things on the units because of the tune crap....but I think there is no problem. I gained two inches in the middle and got rid of the exit. Well, I smashed pretty good the old one.
a bit louder though.

 

Any issue with.exhaust gases in the cabin while sitting at idle? A bit concerned of dumping the exhaust under the truck. Did duel cut offs in a 71 Mach1 in the long long ago and It was a terrible idea. Side note, adding the y-pipe had no effect on the AF ratio from what the wideband is saying. Doubt the "cat back" will either.

 

No issues. I actually ran it today with the back wide open and no issues. The clearance gain is significant for me. Only complaint is the extra noise.

 

Is there a maintenance guide for the maggie? I didn't see one on the website.

 

I think the new version is a TVA unit. I think mine in my 2007 build TRD kit was an Eaton M90.
You can look back to the TRD kit for the earlier 3.4 engine. They were an Eaton I believe. Pretty sure they were recommended to have a rebuild at 90,000-100,000 miles. I think it was bearings in the snout and new oil and gaskets.
I drove my 2008 to around 200,000 before I started hearing what sounded like rotor contact on super cold mornings. This got louder and louder over time but I didn’t have the OEM parts to swap out to remove the charger and send it off for rebuild. It was primarily on cold cold mornings. I had about 240,000 miles on the charger when I sold the truck. It ran for another 4 years before the engine went bad. It was 2 owners down the line. Not sure on total mileage. Not sure if it was from bad gas or metal flakes from rotors touching cause the bearings in the snout had run out.
Either way, I’d recommend a rebuild in the 100,000-150,000 mile range. Bearings in the housings and new oil.

 

Another random question, is there a replacement kit for the Maggie's three idler pulleys?

 

^
I have it somewhere. Let me look is just a standard tensioner and three pulleys. Get the belt too.

Here....

• Dayco Genuine Dayco Belt Tensioner - 89280
• The idlers on that kit are (2) Dayco 89007 smooth idlers and (1) Dayco 89009 ribbed idler.
• The belt is a Dayco #5060701

You're welcome.

 

Many thanks.

 

@Charlievee
Charlie, figure you ordered parts and waiting on them or did you put the old ones back? Hope you get it back on the road soon, let us know what happened here if you don't mind.

 

Had a small leak from the thermostat gasket that required removing the pulley assembly to get the rear bolt out of the housing. Basically have the whole front removed (bumper cover, radiator, fan and SC pulleys) waiting on the correct gasket to come in and thinking of parts to change while it's apart. I ordered the pulleys but may not install them as the SC doesn't have many miles on it. Haven't seen anything that would cause the leak, maybe a bad gasket or small debris from when I installed it. FYSA, Magnusson "has the thermostat housing made for the kit" part # 35-13-40-023, $499.00 plus tax from what their sales rep told me. No noticeable damage to the machined surfaces, so I'm holding off that.

 

So looks like the old thermostat gasket is 5.0-5.2 mm thick. New one is reading 5.7 mm thick. Now the eternal question... RTV or no RTV? Need to drink about it.

 

do RTV.

 

Strong vote against RTV.

I have been building engines for 30 years.

The key to leak free:

• flat undamaged mating surfaces
• quality gasket
• mating surfaces CLEAN
• fastener threads cleaned and installed to correct torque

Whenever I see RTV on a car or motorcycle I can be reasonably sure it has been worked on by ham-fister or there are underlying problems someone was trying to bandaid.

Ready for the professional mechanics to tell me I'm wrong and I'm OK with that. There may be a handful of legit uses for that stuff on cars. My experience is primarily with motorcycles.

Jason

 

I'd sand both sides with something like 1000 grit sandpaper and a piece of glass just enough to be sure they are 100% clean and then lightly smear the new gasket with rtv. You want to be wearing a new pair of rubber gloves when you open the gasket packaging and be meticulous about contamination.

Edit: When I do rtv on something like this I tighten in 90% of the way down and then give it whatever amount of time and finish tighting.

 

Question 473 ... jiggle valve position?
Maggie corp instructs 12 o'clock, interwebz says 6 o'clock?

 

I feel like I am doing this job with you now. Here is the way mine is.

 

Appreciate it, but i'm questioning the position of the jiggle valve in the actual thermostat. Toyota states 6 o'clock (bottom of housing) obviously that's stock.
Magnusson state 12 o'clock (top of housing).
Lots of "information" on the interwebz on higher temps with jiggle valve in wrong position.
Not the end of the world as temps are still in spec. I feel like we are the only two that wrench these days.

 

Go with the Maggie recommendation. That's what I think we did on the install but this was a while back. Mind you, I was supervising and "assisting" and expert, I'm good with getting the beers and waters ready, but there is some stuff is just beyond me. Keep going bud! Almost there.

 

It's back together, i just.can't let things go.

 

Get it back on the road and test it, and if all is good, then, close that chapter and onto the next project. I'm sure you put it together well and the QA/QC was top notch!

 

Response from maggie corp about the position of the thermostat jiggle valve position at 12 and not the Toyota 6 position...
"It is just because our thermostat housing was designed a bit differently. It is just for fitment".

Doesn't seem to make sense in my tiny brain, there is no fitment issue with the thermostat inside the housing. Maybe if i get board one day i will clock it in the Toyota position and see if anything changes.

 

My wild guess is that it won't make a difference either way. The fluid is coming in hot anyway, so I doubt there is a big difference in which position the device sees the fluid. But heck, what do I know!