Steel Cable Fraying on Spare Tire Hoist

PSA reminder

4th gen 4Runner (2008)
Spare tire carrier / wench / chain / cable

Lowered my spare wheel so I can get it repaired. Ran over a nail. The steel cable bound up when I tried to roll it back up, after taking the tire off.

Got under the vehicle and noticed the steel cable for holding the spare tire is starting to fray. Estimate about 1/8th of the wires frayed already. That would be a disaster if the spare wheel dropped off on the highway.

Good reminder, check that cable more often.

Will be ordering a new spare tire hoist tonight. Not sure if they still have OEM or maybe aftermarket is the way to go.

Updated design from Toyota for spare tire winch. https://toyotaparts.ourismantoyotao...ted--4-7l-v8-gas/body--carrier-and-components

The part number for Toyota Spare Tire Carrier
51900-60280 ($170)

This part number now shows the updated design which uses a chain (similar to 5th gen) instead of a steel cable (original 4th gen).

 

The one reason, with stock wheels, I bring my spare into the rotation series. I get to check that joker out every few months.

Definitely a good thing to keep an eye on at least every 6 months to ensure the spare is inflated correctly.

 

I didn't realize 4th gen had a cable instead of a chain. I guess they changed it for a reason.

 

Updated the original post with new info.

Saw guys on other thread just replace their cable, but I didn't want to mess with that, so I just ordered this EOM off Amazon. Expensive little piece, but better than having the tire fall off and cause a wreck behind me.

$124 51900-60280 Toyota Carrier assy, spare wheel 5190060280

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HKPBND5/

 

How the **** do I remove these two bolts? I can get a short socket on the screws on both sides of the carrier. But there zero room for my hands to get enough leverage on the ratchet to break them free.

Thought about removing the big plastic box for the charcoal emissions thing but that looks like a huge pain.

Further complicating things, the carrier has a lip edge around 3 sides of it that sticks up about an inch, preventing you from coming at the bolts from the side, probably to keep debris out.

 

Maybe you can double nut the exposed threads on the bottom side, and get them moving, then finish up with the ratchet from the top?

 

Good idea. Going to try that today. Thx.

Already busted my pinky trying to bust those loose. Curse words were flying.

 

In increasing order of violence:
1. Make sure you are turning the ratchet the correct way. Lying under the vehicle facing up, the ratchet would need to turn clockwise (righty-loosey!) from your viewpoint.

2. Try a stud socket like this one:

$43 ABN Stud Extractor Set, Broken Stud Removal Socket 8-Piece SAE & Metric Stud Remover Set – Stud Puller Sockets

https://www.amazon.com/ABN-Extractor-Removal-8-Piece-Remover/dp/B07FDLY1F3/ Use a ratchet handle not an impact, and remember to turn clockwise.

3. Shave the bolts flush with dremel cutoff wheel and drill out the remenants. New hoist will have new threads.

Most shops in the north would probably skip steps 1-3 and just liquify the bolts with a torch in about 5 minutes. A classier shop might even put a sheet of metal flashing over the hoist to avoid discoloring your floorpan.

 

Finally got that bitch off!

Dremel tool didn't work because it couldn't fit in the space. Too many things in the way.

Those two outer screw positions are so f*cked for maintenance. Ordered a wrench off Amazon as it is the only thing that would reach and fit.

Side info: Spare tire should go underneath with the valve stem facing up.

Also, new chain-style winch is smooth as silk, but the chain links hang down through the spare tire. I tried tucking it back up into the rim but it fell back out. So I decided to use a zip tie to take up the slack so it doesn't flop around while I'm driving.

12mm wrench has 90 gear teeth and I'm not joking when I say I could only turn those outer bolts a few teeth at time. Oddly, once I loosed one of the bolts, I could turn the bolt by hand from the bottom to reverse it out the top. But the other one I had to wrench out all the way. And putting them back in was equally a pain.

After getting off the outer bolts, you can remove the dumb protective plate which gives better access to the remaining four bolts.

GEARWRENCH 12mm 4 Degree Swing Arch 12 Point Flex Head Ratcheting Combination Wrench - 86712

$22 GEARWRENCH 12mm 4 Degree Swing Arch 12 Point Flex Head Ratcheting Combination Wrench - 86712

https://www.amazon.com/GEARWRENCH-Flex-Combination-Ratchet-86712/dp/B08KHSXTQC/