Sound deadening in doors?

Well, I'm sure you could use it for what ever you could think of. The ones that have the aluminum layer has an insulating property and some use it for engine compartment hood insulation. Butyl is used for adhesive/sealant in some applications cuz it doesn't dry out as easily. Etc.

 

Just finished the two two rear doors. I installed 2.5 sheets in each door. Didn’t go overboard. The tapping sound difference between the front and rear doors now is insane! Quite impressed.

Mine is a Limited, so I won’t be changing speakers as it’s not that easy. But I will add some strips around the speakers similar to the guy in a previous post. I did t put the door cards back on - want to see how well the Vapor sheet adheres back to the door before I put the card back. I used a bit of heat to soften the butyl and then pushed the Vapor barrier back on.

 

Did the rear hatch tonight, took about an hour. I have concerns how well it’s going to stick to this door.. the rear hatch had existing sound deadening of sorts on it that was very well adhered to the door so i didn’t bother removing it but instead applied mine over it. I heated the deadening up a bit with my heat gun and then rolled it on.

As a remainder, check and spray your rear window linkage. Mine was getting a bit rusty so at the end I sprayed some surface shield on all the arms and assembly.

 

I just completed my front doors and like others have said it makes a noticeable difference. next is rear doors, hatch, lt qtr and floor

 

How much did you put inside the doors? Completely covered it?

 

I bought the Amazon basic pack of 14.5''x10''.

$17 Amazon Basics Car Sound Deadening Mat, 14.5" x 10", Pack of 10

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XMF2V77?_encoding=UTF8 covered 90% of both front doors inside and outer skin. I did not apply the sound deadener to the entire panel as its not entirely necessary. outside door skin covered 75% and inside shell covered all openings and around speaker opening so my Midbass is more accurate.

 

Ya that’s the same stuff I’m using. So you covered the door metal that’s facing the door card too? What did you do with the vapour barrier, go around it?

 

ripped out the vapor barrier and replaced it with the sound deadener

 

So the opening is now open or has sound deadening over it?

 

Sounds like it's just sitting open and metal covered with deadening

 

Wouldnt this being expose some moisture to the door card that the Vapor barrier stopped?

 

It would. Vapor barrier should be replaced by a vapor barrier. You don't want all that moisture touching your door card.
Not to mention, if sound deadening is added in its place it's going to be a pain to access the window motor, seals, actuator etc if any of them need replacement. The mess it would create.

 

Here’s an example of what I did. All sealed up

 

Doesn't interfere with window or motor. But i personally live in Texas. Prolonged moisture isn't an issue for plastic for card.. But yes for the northerners that's an issue.

 

I live in Texas too. It is there for a reason. But do whatever works for you.

 

Wow! Yah I didn’t do this, haha.

I can’t wait to finish the front doors and tackle the rear where the 3rd row and wheel well is.

 

Most say 50-60% of coverage. I got that on the inside skin, are there benefits on the exterior skin (facing the door card)? I added a few slivers (blue) but do I REALYY need more?

 

Are you rolling it out?

 

Yes using a couple of rollers that I picked up. Hard to tell but there is 3x 9.8x15.7” sheets inside the door too - you can see a bit passed the Vapor barrier that was reinstalled at that point

 

Depends on what effect you're going for. Total isolation, then more needed. If you just want music rattle to stop you're good.

 

Well I added more, tried to fill all areas but not hinder access down to road if I need to.

I want silence lol in the cab. Don’t think I can expect much from the stock JBL system, but just to quiet down the cabin some.

 

Then you need to strip the interior and cover every inch. Lol

 

I gotta do it in phases due to commitments/family. It’s my daily so I still it to be able to haul kids around

Next step will be to remove the 3rd area as I can be without that while still using the trunk, and cover that area and wheel well. Then slowly move towards the front, the transmission tunnel is something I know probably contributes a lot of noise.. but to get there I need to remove front seats and some..

 

3/8s Milwaukee ratchet makes easy work. Took about 45min to remove the rear stuff, not going to pull the side interior plastic due to the fact that the 2nd row seat belt ties into the wheel well and it appears the protective cap for it is gone so debris has been hitting the other side of the bolt - would suck if this strips. I can pry the interior plastic piece far enough to get some of the sound deadening on the wheel well area etc.

Will need to go find torque values for all bolts removed.

 

Floor and left side is done. For the right side I pulled the plastic off, way more stuff in there so I couldn’t get to areas as easy to apply the deadening.

What else do I upgrade while I’m in there now lol!

 

Well, the next row was in order. Man are those 2nd row seats heavy on the limited! By pulling the carpet from under the b pillar a bit I was able to fold it high enough to basically get a sheet and a half on each 2nd row footwell.

I will admit, I’ve been driving around with the 3rd row all done and not fully reinstalled and the 4Runner sounds way more solid and not hollow. Curious once all the carpet/seats are put back the difference.

At this rate, I feel like I need to pull the front seats and do that area as well. If I pull the front passenger seat, and run the car is it going to throw an airbag light? And can techstream clear those or is it a more specialized tool?