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SOS 2uz fe timing situation.

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by chewyspark, Jan 23, 2018.

  1. Jan 23, 2018 at 11:51 PM
    #1
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    2007 4.7 V8...tried the timing belt myself,.got to belt everything lined up(lines on

    cams and oil pulley to the "l" and white dot) , clockwise to 50 degrees (did not rotate back to "l" position ) .. changed

    belt, didn't mark new one just lined up the factory lines with the marks on cams/

    oil pulley (I did mark old belt with R cam "l", if that helps any) put tensioner and

    hand cranked until the factory markings on the belt came around 4 times (1/2

    ratchet proper socket with spark plugs in, felt a little resistance but I figured it

    was compression and just turning a V8 but hand)


    And that's where I left it...I have one more day off work and would really appreciate any advice on this.

    Did I f*** my car up? because I didn't return it to 0* before taking off old belt?
    Is there a way to address the issue if so?

    Thanks in advance!!
     
  2. Jan 24, 2018 at 6:46 AM
    #2
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: @cwehlin

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    I'm not understanding what you think your problem is.
     
  3. Jan 24, 2018 at 8:29 AM
    #3
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    I've never felt valve/piston interference so Idk if I timed it right. I had all 3 sprockets lined with ATDC, put new belt and hand cranked 4 times and the markings did not line up Again.
     
  4. Jan 24, 2018 at 9:23 AM
    #4
    Caltech90

    Caltech90 New Member

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    I thought the 4.7 was a non-interference motor.
     
  5. Jan 24, 2018 at 10:07 AM
    #5
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: @cwehlin

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    Markings on the belt don't need to line up again, but TDC needs to line up. If it doesn't you have an issue. You will feel resistance while manually cranking, that's not a problem.
     
  6. Jan 24, 2018 at 10:42 AM
    #6
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    Ok so as long as both cams and crank land on TDC at the same time Im good?

    Because I changed the belt on ATDC and didn't move it back to zero or anything.
     
  7. Jan 24, 2018 at 11:13 AM
    #7
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    BassAckwards likes this.
  8. Jan 24, 2018 at 3:00 PM
    #8
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: @cwehlin

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    Just bought dat bish
    Looks like you're good
     
    BassAckwards likes this.
  9. Jan 24, 2018 at 8:33 PM
    #9
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    That's reassuring and sad as hell as well lol

    Because This just became a lot more interesting... i ran out to run an errand and in that time my friend (that was helping me) took it upon himself to redo everything... which included removing the belt and moving the 3 pulleys individually... and now I'm completely lost on what to do... he got the belt on but the pulleys are nowhere near in sync. Any tips on this lol
     
  10. Jan 26, 2018 at 4:39 AM
    #10
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: @cwehlin

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    Take the belt off and line the pulleys up with TDC. Rotating them the shortest distance is best. Put belt back on and rotate the crank and make sure that they always come back to TDC. Then tell your friend never to touch your truck again.
     
  11. Jan 28, 2018 at 12:54 AM
    #11
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    A lot more was said but that's for another thread...

    About the rotating them short distance... I rotated the cams in a clockwise direction and there would be a lot more resistance so I would turn the crankshaft (clockwise) until I could turn it no with little effort again and then there would be a point that felt like a spring untensioning and It went a little past the

    "T" and I would turn it back slightly.( could that cause damage?). Both

    sides lined up and the white dot on crank

    lined up with CR on OEM belt... buttoned everything back up, filled coolant, started it up took 2 cranks and some gas.

    Pulled codes p0300 p0306 p0307 p0308
    Checked spark plugs in respective cylinders. Erased codes. #8 went away. Erased codes. Swapped #7 with #1. And temporarily #6 went away (came back next round of codes) but motor still felt not to where it originally was but not piston/valve f***ing up sounding, more like bad spark plug(s). Checked any unplugged tubes and things of that nature. At this point I'm concluding that the timings off

    But maybe someone more experienced has some suggestions? Someone told me to do a compression test but i don't have the tools for that at the moment. I called a reliable family mechanic friend as this was my first time doing this but I would still appreciate the wisdom.
     
  12. Jan 29, 2018 at 1:55 AM
    #12
    Caltech90

    Caltech90 New Member

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    I would do a compression test for sure. Harbor Freight sells a cheap compression testing kit. You might even be able to rent one from a parts store.
     
  13. Jan 29, 2018 at 7:44 PM
    #13
    chewyspark

    chewyspark [OP] New Member

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    Update. Bent my valves and in the process of removing the heads so I can get that fixed...expensive lesson learned lol
     
  14. Jan 30, 2018 at 12:58 AM
    #14
    Caltech90

    Caltech90 New Member

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    Ouch, good luck man.
     
  15. Jan 30, 2018 at 7:28 AM
    #15
    Texoma

    Texoma IG: @cwehlin

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    Not to place blame, but it sounds like your friend bent your valves turning the pulleys individually. 4.7L is indeed an interference engine. You can replace the valves yourself, really isn't too difficult. You'll need valve grinding compound to get them to seal properly. Read up on it, watch some YouTube vids, and don't let your friend any where near your shit. I'd be one smart remark from smacking the shit out of him. If you need any thing else, let me know, I'd be happy to help.
     

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