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Rear main seal help

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by SR5 turbo, Apr 22, 2021.

  1. Apr 22, 2021 at 9:03 PM
    #1
    SR5 turbo

    SR5 turbo [OP] New Member

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    Ok so I need to replace the rear main seal on my 95 4runner sr5 3.0 v6 . I am really just looking for any information about the job maybe some tips and I was curious if it is going to require me to drop the trans as I was told in may not have to depending on the placement of the seal, but I can’t find anything on YouTube about the 3.0 specifically. Any help in much appreciated
     
  2. Apr 23, 2021 at 3:30 AM
    #2
    captsolo

    captsolo New Member

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    You will probably have to drop the transmission. Unless it is a terrible leak, I'd consider leaving it alone. Hire a professional.

    I have a 2005 with 150,000 miles and I got a leak (few drips occasionally) from the RMS area. Two small drops a week on the cardboard in the garage doesn't bother me.

    4runner starts and runs like brand new after 15 years. Never owned a car like this Toyota. Not a speck of rust on the painted body. OEM radiator, WP, exhaust system. Amazing.

    Replaced the evaporator in the cabin and have 100% cold AC again. Evaporator core was $90 at Amazon and was a perfect fit. Had a professional shop do the job at a cost of $800.

    OEM evaporator lasted 4 years and failed. Replacement evap lasted 9 years. Now with a new one for summer.

    Replaced the AC compressor two years ago.

    Amazon.com: Denso 471-1413 New Compressor with Clutch: Automotive (made in China)

    I've never added any additives to the engine in 15 years.
     
    Last edited: Apr 23, 2021
  3. Apr 23, 2021 at 5:09 AM
    #3
    bthp223

    bthp223 New Member

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    There’s a pretty thorough thread on the subject....try searching.
     
  4. Apr 23, 2021 at 5:53 AM
    #4
    Overlandcharlie

    Overlandcharlie Long way from home

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    3in OME rear medium coils Eibach rear shocks ICON 17x8 wrapped in Toyo MT 295/70-17 3” OME front medium duty Coil overs LFD cross bars RSG sliders ROAM gear box and custom built box with Rear diff breather extension LED interior lighting Ellis shifter in reach mini on RAM mount C4 Dual battery tray and under hood accessories mount With compressor Ironman 2m awning Ironman 9500 winch with synthetic rope and factor 55 flatlink Lo pro winch front bumper / light bar / recovery points Recovery gear: recovery boards / soft shackles / snatch strap and recovery straps - tree savers - assorted D rings etc. Wyeth-Scott synthetic come-along for rear facing recoveries Rear recovery points Remote battery jump starter and power source ax / shovel / chainsaw Always loaded with food / water and camping gear. Frequently camping and exploring the great outdoors
    So I have NEVER done a Toyota RMS but I have replaced three of them in different Jeep’s - ALL XJ cherokees. I did them all without dropping the tranny. I had never done it before I did the first one. My point is do your research. If it is like the Jeep’s and a two piece RMS then you should be able to do it without a complete drop and once split you can slide the seals out and then new ones in. Just be prepared to be on your back under the vehicle for several hours unless you have a lift
    And I learned the hard one have an spare NEW seal in case you F up the 1st one as sliding them in is tedious . Once the original starts leaking they only get worse with time .
     
  5. Apr 23, 2021 at 6:27 AM
    #5
    D60

    D60 New Member

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    You have to pull the trans.

    The seal also lives in what I call a carrier plate which bolts to the engine and seals with RTV -- actually may have been a paper gasket from the factory. Most of what you'll read online will say to not disturb the plate if you don't need to. Thing is, you really don't KNOW if you "need to" 'cause it can be really hard to tell where it's actually leaking.

    I contend that it is absolutely foolish to NOT re-seal the plate while in there and this should in fact simply be considered SOP when doing an RMS job on these engines.

    It is also possible to get a sleeve kit for the crank if the seal has grooved it.

    Now is the time to do your oil pan gasket if you feel that is also leaking.

    Read this before asking more:
    https://www.4runners.com/threads/replacement-engine-rear-main-leak.15537/page-2
     
    brownersd likes this.
  6. Apr 23, 2021 at 6:44 AM
    #6
    D60

    D60 New Member

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    Here's what it can look like when you remove that plate. Note paper gasket lower left. Paper gasket lower right. NO gasket on majority of upper radius. And it was NOT stuck to the plate, it was just gone although we found a few pieces floating around back on the block

    Sooooo......that could (and was) causing a huge leak.

    20210219_125740.jpg
     
  7. Apr 23, 2021 at 11:31 AM
    #7
    SR5 turbo

    SR5 turbo [OP] New Member

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    Thank you for the information
     
  8. Apr 26, 2021 at 7:35 AM
    #8
    watermelonman122

    watermelonman122 New Member

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    Here's a picture of the seal carrier plate in my lap. It's a single piece seal and requires the transmission be removed.
    178936574_969666637135782_872879294146666047_n.jpg
     
    Overlandcharlie likes this.
  9. May 4, 2021 at 3:19 PM
    #9
    mjamgb

    mjamgb New Member

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    None yet
    Looks like they updated a prior "scroll and slinger" design with a bolt-on seal.
     

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