1. Welcome to 4Runners.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all 4Runner discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other 4Runner owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

RAT Products Skid Plate Install Write up

Discussion in 'RAT Products' started by isu2014, Apr 27, 2014.

  1. Apr 27, 2014 at 5:41 PM

    isu2014 [OP] New Member

    Apr 27, 2014
    First Name:
    I'm making this thread as a general guide to installing my skid plates I sell. Also it can serve as a general information thread, and FAQ. Ask any questions you have.

    This is the way I did it (on a Tacoma, same process) and it didn't take too long and was easy by myself. Use another guy if you think it will be necessary. Don't get hurt!

    Hardware included:
    5 Black M8 bolts and washers
    2 Blue 1/2" bolts, washers, nuts
    6 Silver self-drilling 3/8" screws

    Tools I used:
    12mm socket
    13mm socket
    9/16" socket
    3/4" socket and wrench
    1/4" drill bit
    Impact gun

    How to install RAT Products 3 piece skids:
    1. Drive up on ramps if you would like more clearance to work.

    2. Remove your stock front skids and the transfer case skid plate using a 12mm.

    3. Place the transmission skid on a floor jack to hold it up in position. The large holes go toward the rear of the truck. They line up with holes in the transmission cross member. The front holes line up with the very rear set of factory skid mounting holes.

    4. Lift the front IFS skid into position similar to the factory skid and support it (I used my knees) and put 3 black bolts and washers in the front lip hand tight.

    5. Overlap the IFS skid on the transmission skid, then line up the holes in the rear of the IFS skid with the front holes in the transmission skid and factory mounting holes. Use 2 black bolts and washers to secure the plates hand tight.

    6. Lift the transfer case skid up so the front holes will line up with the rear holes of the transmission skid. Overlap the transmission skid on top of the transfer case skid. Insert a blue bolt, washers, and nut in each hole from the bottom up. Hand tighten.

    7. Align the transfer case skid wings evenly on each frame rail, then tighten all of the hardware. 3/4" for the blue bolts, 13mm for the black bolts.

    8. Move the floor jack to apply pressure to one of the wings of the transfer case skid.

    9. Use a 1/4" drill bit to make a pilot hole in each hole in the transfer case wing tab. You may need to do one at a time depending on how much clearance you have with the jack.

    10. I used a drill socket adapter to drive in the self tappers until the battery died, then an impact gun. Either work. The impact can drive the screws in pretty tight. I didn't hammer on them long since you don't want to break one off or strip the hole. I believe 9/16" socket.

    Repeat steps 8,9, and 10 for the other wing.

    That's it for install. Drink something cold now!
To Top