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Preventative Maintenance on 3rd Gen

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by MB101, Nov 22, 2022.

  1. Nov 22, 2022 at 7:46 PM
    #1
    MB101

    MB101 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2022
    Member:
    #29740
    Messages:
    8
    Hey..All,

    3rd Gen 2000 4runner SR5 4WD Manual Transmission 150K miles stock.

    For most of it's life this vehicle has been sitting in NM/AZ.... Currently in NY last few years (salt belt). anyway near zero rust but it's starting
    • Trying to lessen rust by spraying undercarriage with fluid film once a year.
    • Rear differential recently blew so had that replaced - ouch
    • Just replaced Timing Belt and Water Pump (forgot to replace the other belts)
    • Manual clutch replaced at 65K miles
    • Alternator replaced at 100K
    • Rear right axle seal has been leaking for 15 years .... haven't done anything about it. doesn't appear to be an issue. Maybe changing the rear differential fixed it anyway?
    • Oil change every 5K miles
    • Spark Plugs changed every 40K miles
    • Manual Transmission Fluid flush every 60K miles
    Even if no obvious issues do I to need think about proactively:
    • Replacing Radiator?
    • Replace Ball Joints?
    • Replace transfer case oil?
    • Clean throttle body?
    • Clean MAF?
    • Wheel bearings?
    anything else?

    Thanks!!
     
  2. Nov 23, 2022 at 1:28 AM
    #2
    roboturner

    roboturner Dead Eyed

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2022
    Member:
    #29416
    Messages:
    98
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    ‘98 NW 3.4L 5MT SR5 | '19 6MT ACLB Tacoma
    i was going to ask how the diff blew at 150k but I think I got it now :p

    long story short: Yes to most of your Qs - I’d do the below soon. Good news is it’s all very easy DIY.

    • definitely continue to FF in NY
    • REPLACE those LBJs (and associated bolts) asap, OEM - ~$250 and 1 hour of your time, 60k-100k interval
    • Change Front Diff fluid, Rear Diff Fluid and T-Case fluid every 30k miles. I’d start with the front diff and T-case sooner rather than later as you’ll have had rear done with the rear diff swap - but couldn’t hurt to do it all, a consistent changing schedule is more important than expensive oil. The front diff has a dumb Allen key plug which is easy to strip, i like to take the opportunity to do the Lexus diff plug swap. Remember to always crack the FILL plug first before the DRAIN, just to make sure you won’t have problems - ~$100 worth of fluid and a hand pump (1 hour)
    • Radiator is eh, keep an eye on it, if your coolant is leaking or looks nasty id look into it - wait and see, easy to do though
    • Cleaning the throttle body and MAF takes no time at all and probably smart to do every once in awhile- $20 worth of MAF and TB specific cleaner and immaterial time
    • Wheel bearings are only if you’ve been having issues
    • Grease the driveshaft zerk fittings every other oil change - $50 to buy a grease gun and immaterial for some Red N Tacky #2 - I think theres 9 zerks? Look it up
    • Brake fluid every 3 years, you could get a tester for cheap if you want, or preempt it
    • Check and replace your engine filter as necessary
    • Shocks, Coils, and bushings as necessary
    That’s what I can think of off the top of my head right now
     
    Last edited: Nov 23, 2022
  3. Nov 23, 2022 at 6:40 AM
    #3
    MB101

    MB101 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2022
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    Messages:
    8
    Roboturner thanks ... it's not driven very much so forgot about the issue of the axle seal leak ... it's a rebuilt rear diff (probably should have replaced the rear end)....I forgot to address the axle seal when it was rebuilt oh well... I also forgot how serious an issue those LBJs can be - I thought about doing it after 200K miles but it's relatively cheap - I'll do those ASAP (some scary photos out there of blown LBJs)

    Cheers,
     
  4. Nov 23, 2022 at 7:49 AM
    #4
    roboturner

    roboturner Dead Eyed

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2022
    Member:
    #29416
    Messages:
    98
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    ‘98 NW 3.4L 5MT SR5 | '19 6MT ACLB Tacoma
    It's one of those things where it's rare and likely won't happen, but since its a catastrophic failure point, just spend the couple hundred and do it IMO.

    There's really only a few things that can cause expensive issues outside of a crash: blown motor/tranny, blown LBJ, and rusted out frame. Looks like you're appropriately handling them, the rest is manageable with not much sweat
     
  5. Nov 23, 2022 at 8:06 AM
    #5
    roboturner

    roboturner Dead Eyed

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2022
    Member:
    #29416
    Messages:
    98
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    ‘98 NW 3.4L 5MT SR5 | '19 6MT ACLB Tacoma
  6. Nov 25, 2022 at 1:26 AM
    #6
    MB101

    MB101 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2022
    Member:
    #29740
    Messages:
    8
    Thanks! For LBJs does the package 04005-02235 contain both Left Side 43340-39465 and Right Side 43330-39585 ? (I realize the package has 2 LBJs I'm assuming these 2 parts ?)

    I guess also
    + 8X 43340-39465
    +2X 90171-A0005 ?- Not sure if these are needed?

    do I need to purchase cotter pins separately?

    Cheers,
     
    Last edited: Nov 25, 2022
  7. Nov 25, 2022 at 5:46 AM
    #7
    roboturner

    roboturner Dead Eyed

    Joined:
    Nov 4, 2022
    Member:
    #29416
    Messages:
    98
    Colorado
    Vehicle:
    ‘98 NW 3.4L 5MT SR5 | '19 6MT ACLB Tacoma
    I believe the LBJs come with a new castle nut and cotter pin, but it’s good to have a cotter set around, and cheap too.

    Timmy the Toolman is a great resource, check his video description, he’ll have the correct Part #’s and torque specs for you - the LBJs slightly change in 01, so you’ll want the older style.

    I went ahead and got a pitman set, as it’s been helpful for other things I’ve done, but if you don’t want to buy it, you can usually borrow one for free from autozone/parts stores. Some people also just go ham with a sledge and/or pickle fork with similar results if that’s your speed, just make sure to hit on the castle nuts, not the threads (I suggest a pitman AP).

    good luck, it truly sounds harder than it is
     
    MB101[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  8. Dec 4, 2022 at 8:36 PM
    #8
    MB101

    MB101 [OP] New Member

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    Messages:
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    Got a bunch of stuff done including the LBJs ... still need to do all the fluids (front diff oil, transfer case oil, brake fluid, manual transmission drain or flush)..... I'd like to keep this car going as long as possible.... it will be an antique soon I guess - I have the manual and it's just fun to drive without getting me into too much trouble (This thing is still on the original shocks and struts and its still really stiff and corners really well - tires are slippy but that just adds to the fun when cornering). Everything modern imo looks plastic today and without the manual (which few cars/suvs have nowadays) that would take all the fun out of driving for me ..... hopefully this thing survives a while longer.....
     
    roboturner likes this.
  9. Dec 5, 2022 at 12:33 PM
    #9
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2019
    Member:
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    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Patrick
    OREGON
    Vehicle:
    1987 4Runner all stock, owned 32 years
    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    Take good care of it, as it sounds lie you're working on slowly but surely, and it will reward you with a LONG time in service. These trucks are pretty much bomb proof, if you take good, basic care of them.

    Good luck to you, and enjoy your truck!
    Pat☺
     
    MB101[OP] likes this.
  10. Dec 7, 2022 at 9:00 PM
    #10
    mousemeat

    mousemeat New Member

    Joined:
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    1,160
    Gender:
    Male
    Memphis, TN.
    Vehicle:
    1997 4 runner limited
    upgraded suspension, large all terrain tires
    fix before it happens...one way or another, you'll have to spend ' x ' number of $$$$$....myself, I just replaced my timing belt, water pump, new radiator cap, all hoses...I looked at the olde belt..ok shape, but it was only a matter of time..before it broke...rubber breaks down over a period of time. my motor is now around 276K..and still going strong. body and frame are good.
     
    MB101[OP] likes this.

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