Oil Filter Cap Assembly ?

Some say it presents the possibility of an oil change tech over tightening it, making it next to impossible to remove on the next change. If you do it yourself, no problem. Others have had the plastic one for 200k with no issue. You decide.

 

According to the Car Care Nut, disassembling the housing to swap the tube ruins the housing. In his words, “They are not serviceable.” Admitting my hubris in advance, I will say disagree with the Car Care Nut on this and think that the tube (and spring!) can be transferred from the plastic housing to the metal one.

That said, I have yet to see a compelling reason why you’d want to.

 

Just did first oil change.
I see no reason to change to a metal cap. The way the o ring goes in this housing will not leak, no need to be tight just snug.
Can't figure out what the metal pointer tab is for

 

You’re supposed to line up that pointer tab with a metal protuberance on the engine block/housing that you screw the cap into. You’ll be amazed if you do at how much tighter the cap could be. But as you and others have mentioned, the seal comes from that o ring, not from threading the cap on tight.

 

I really think the bottom line of the whole issue is this:

There’s nothing wrong with the OEM plastic cap if you don’t act like a total idiot. You can even be a partial idiot and it could outlast the rest of the truck.

The metal version is in theory better because it’s less prone to cracking if you are an idiot. But there’s the hassle of swapping over the tube. And at the end of the day you’ve gained basically nothing over a plastic version that’s treated with even a modicum of care.

 

The silver clip on the black plastic oil filter cap helps keep the cap from spinning off should it be under torqued during installation. This is generally not a problem because bottom of the ladder Toyota Lube Techs are not hired unless they can demonstrate the ability to tighten the cap to 6001 ft-lbs (screw Newton meters). 6001 because they have to be better than Quickie Lube guys who tighten to 6000 ft-lbs.

 

As stated here, there are lots of 4Runners and many other cars out there with tons of miles on them that have a "plastic" cap. I personally prefer the metal one, so I have it. I think it is easier to clean (spot oil leaks, etc),the housing and threads in and stops more positively at the recommended torque setting. Besides, Lexus includes metal caps, so it must be an "upgrade", right?
As far as ruining the housing if you swap out the spring and tube, I'm going to agree with the comment above about disagreeing with the Care Care Nut on this specific issue. I suppose it is possible for someone to ruin things doing this somehow (maybe not bending the tabs back to secure the tube after the swap?)and that's why he said that.

If you are really concerned about it, I am 99.9999% positive that there is a part number out there for Lexus that would be a direct fit with no swapping of tubes. It has been a while, but I'm pretty sure I did that. The only possible variable then is the spring rate since your tube and housing would be the same spec. As noted above by the OP, the springs are the same in his opinion. I tried to test them with a spring pressure gauge and didn't come up with any consistent differences over a series of measurements.

 

Just curious on why some folks change to the Alum one? Is it because their plastic ones got stripped from over tightening? Since it is under the skid plate, I assume it is not for “more protection”.

 

From what I've read, some break off the ears of the plastic one when trying to remove it after a shop has overtightened the filter housing on the previous service.

With the right filter housing wrench, that can definitely be avoided.

 

Do you have the part # for this direct fit aluminum housing? I would greatly appreciate it if you can provide it.

 

I had bought one to replace mine then changed my mind after watching the Car Care Nut video. Fortunately it was still on the shelf when I stripped the nut on the filter drain plug on my last oil change. Now I have the aluminum one installed.

 

I have 180K on my 2011. I JUST changed out the filter housing to a new OEM. Not because anything was wrong, but because I figured it deserved a new one. And, that many heat cycles might have a detrimental effect over that much time (not proven). Look, Toyota engineers are very smart. If they had intended to install an aluminum or metal housing, they would have. In my mind, I don't have any reason to argue with them.

 

Agreed!!!

 

Agreed!

 

I wish I would’ve watched this earlier…

Thanks for posting this. A lot of great information here.

 

Has anyone actually had their plastic filter housing fail? I replaced mine with another plastic one around 100K just to be cautious.

 

I have seen people use the wrong tool which damages it or over tighten it which damages the threads but I don’t think there has been a failure of a regularly used one.

 

I am in the market for a plastic cap, lmk if you are selling.

 

I have a Toyota tech and he is the only tech I’ll currently use. Been using the same one since 2014. He’s an older tech, not a green bean. We had that discussion before I started using a non plastic can. He informed me he’s seen cracked and leaking cans. He stated they had more than likely been dropped and created the cracks.

 

Or tightened too much by his coworkers.

 

Definitely a possibility. I would think impacts on concrete would do more harm.

 

CCN is partly wrong there. The aftermarket filter bowls are often no bueno, sure. However, the coil spring under the center tube is just there to take up different filter element heights. The bypass valve is a small wave spring-loaded disc inside the center tube. And there's enough give in the plastic tabs to remove and install the center tube multiple times without harm.

I ruined two on my Tacoma from over-torquing. The result is seepage on the outside of the bowl, not severe enough to cause a decrease in oil level. I've been more careful with the one on the 4Runner.