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Oil change 2018 TRD OffRoad

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010+)' started by ferrisDJB, Nov 15, 2020.

  1. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:04 PM
    #31
    billum v2.0

    billum v2.0 New Member

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    Appreciate your wisdom, thanks.

    We're going to disagree on this one. If it was simply tighten until snug, we're on the same page. If it was tighten to a torque spec, we're good. If the filter/housing was on top of the block and the housing was tightened to a visual indicator, Okay. But tighten until a visual indicator on the underside of the block is in alignment, nope.

    I've owned cars over the years from manufacturers who gave as much thought to those maintaining their vehicles as the Pope does to my choice in footwear (MG, Alfa Romeo and Jaguar). None had this silliness (all had plenty otherwise).

    Can't see the indicator alignment, it's on passenger side when "correctly aligned".

    Drop skidplate (if stock), special filter wrench, filter housing drain tube, replace 2 O rings, re-install housing to a visual setting. Taken individually, may not be a big deal. Collectively, it's too fiddly, too many steps that have potential for failure. Your advice on the drain tube is perfect example. Illustrations (plural) on factory oil filter box showing acceptable and unacceptable placement of O rings are another.

    I've done my own vehicle maintenance for 4 decades. Old Alfa's and Jag's were the low point in stupidity in what's required to do the simplest tasks.

    The point isn't that it can't be done, it's that its excessively fussy.
     
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  2. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:38 PM
    #32
    Agent_Outside

    Agent_Outside New Member

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    What mark are you trying to align? There’s a metal clip on the side of housing that has a tab that aligns with block. You snug up the filter and that clip that can be seen from side lines up. The o-ring illustrations are common sense, you install the o-ring in the groove, not on the base of the threads.
     
  3. Nov 17, 2020 at 8:41 PM
    #33
    canadian.bacon

    canadian.bacon H9 halogen is the best led bulb

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    I use ramps.
     
  4. Nov 17, 2020 at 11:20 PM
    #34
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    Forget about that pointer tab. Torque the cap (housing) to 18 ft-lbs. It’s printed right on the cap (25 n-m). And torque the housing drain plug to 9 ft-lbs.
     
  5. Nov 18, 2020 at 3:12 AM
    #35
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    I have never tried to align any pointer tab. I didn't know there was such a thing. I tighten the housing until I feel some tension, and stop. No leaks so far. Is there a reason to align these things?
     
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  6. Nov 18, 2020 at 5:46 AM
    #36
    billum v2.0

    billum v2.0 New Member

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    Missed it, thanks for this.
     
  7. Nov 18, 2020 at 7:36 AM
    #37
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    Are you sure the housing drain plug is 9 ft-lbs? I thought it was 20?

    Edit: Nope, you're right! It's 9 ft-lbs.
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2020
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  8. Nov 18, 2020 at 5:15 PM
    #38
    JohnD

    JohnD New Member

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    I have the RCI skid with an access panel. I also have a few of the little plastic filter canister drain fittings. I’ve found they fit nicely into the end of a short piece of 1/2” EMT conduit. While it’s not yet time to change my oil, I plan to screw that drain fitting into the canister using that piece of conduit. I hope it will allow me to more easily align the fitting through the access panel and oil will drain out the conduit into my pan rather than down my elbow and all over my skid.
     
  9. Nov 18, 2020 at 9:53 PM
    #39
    glwood54

    glwood54 Stop making me buy stuff!

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    I gotta say, this entire thread is making me feel better and better about dropping my 4R off at a trusted mechanic shop two doors down from work, and walking back a couple hours later to pick it up. :D

    Thanks 4runners.com! I knew there was a good reason I joined this group.
     
  10. Nov 19, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    #40
    Dakota Red

    Dakota Red New Member

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  11. Nov 19, 2020 at 7:17 AM
    #41
    Dakota Red

    Dakota Red New Member

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    Why are you jacking up a 4ruuner?
     
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  12. Nov 19, 2020 at 3:27 PM
    #42
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    I do because I rotate the tires at every oil change.
     
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  13. Nov 19, 2020 at 6:04 PM
    #43
    4Runner fun

    4Runner fun Just the beginning...

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    I pull ours up on ramps, jack it up more & put stands under the axles.
    I am 6'4 230# & to do it all myself I need the room. One day I will have a vehicle lift!

    Side note* anyone who thinks oil changes for a 4runner are expensive; try a synthetic oil change on a diesel motor! My 6.0 powerstroke takes 16 quarts of oil. Yes, I wrote that right. I buy a $125 on sale (T4 Rotella) 5 gal jug for one oil change. Add the $20 filter, fluids etc and time! Shit...
    Oil changes are not fun or cheap if done well!
    I also rotate my tires every time I do an oil change! Just a good practice.
     
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  14. Nov 20, 2020 at 3:41 AM
    #44
    peter2772000

    peter2772000 New Member

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    This. Pricey though, ran me close to $400 US for the adapter & inverted remote filter mount. Still haven't gotten around to installing it yet, I have to have AN-10 lines made up for it
     
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  15. Nov 20, 2020 at 10:22 AM
    #45
    edgesalon

    edgesalon New Member

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    I liked my 4th gen filter on the top no mess did it for 11 years but the 5th gen well i am with you @glwood54 just give it to my mechanic and pay him and say thank you.
     
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  16. Nov 20, 2020 at 4:06 PM
    #46
    glwood54

    glwood54 Stop making me buy stuff!

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    I know, right? The 2nd gen Tacoma oil filter location, top of the engine, next to the battery, with a drain tray, was the best idea since the Ford Model T. Why Toyota went away from that for the 4Runners is beyond imagining.

    For what the mechanic shop charged me to change the oil, I'd be crazy to be jacking up a vehicle, crawling up under there, removing the skid plate, fiddling with the filter canister, draining oil, etc., yada yada. Been there, done that, and am over it. For those who love to do it, enjoy!
     
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  17. Nov 21, 2020 at 7:12 AM
    #47
    ferrisDJB

    ferrisDJB [OP] New Member

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    nothing yet
    Don't bother, they're all 'out of office'. I hate this saying , "it is what it is" but....it is. Has anyone used the following 'quick drain oil valves', Stahlbus, FUMOTO, or Valvomax? Using one of these could eliminate some of the potential mess. The next question; the little plastic plug that comes with the raw filter media, can a vinyl tube be attached to that to direct drain from filter? Last question, I promise; the filter wrench. I see variations from Motiv, Lisle, and Summits 64mm filter wrench. Any opinions on these would greatly help a rookie with a new driveway not wanting create a cluster 'F' mess out of a simple oil change! Thanks in advance for any help offered.
     
  18. Nov 21, 2020 at 8:05 AM
    #48
    A&P

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    My 2008 FJ had can on top of the eng. My 2012 FJ had the canister, my 2015 Tacoma had can on top of eng. My 2018 has canister. I did swap out the plastic bowl for the aluminum one. It's not a difficult change IF you're used to working on different machines. I haven't jacked ANY of the 4 Toyotas to R&R oil/filter yet, enough gnd clearance even W/my belly to slide under to remove skid pan/drain plug & canister assy.all stock except this 4Runner currently has corn fed 3/4 spacer up frt.(soon to be replaced W/Eibachs set @.85!)
     
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  19. Nov 21, 2020 at 9:10 AM
    #49
    glwood54

    glwood54 Stop making me buy stuff!

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    You won't be disappointed!
     
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  20. Nov 21, 2020 at 10:01 AM
    #50
    A&P

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    That's what I hear. Just made the appt. to get it done Friday @9:00. I'll be doing it too but made sure my buddy has me in on the lift. Hopefully I can then go get the alignment done that afternoon.
     
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  21. Nov 21, 2020 at 10:10 AM
    #51
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    You don't necessarily have to worry about doing the alignment same day unless it's really out of wack.

    Sometimes it's better to go a few days to let things settle.......although Eibach has very little settling.

    If you can't get it done same day, don't stress.

    Just mark your cam bolts with a sharpie or some white-out and make sure they're in the same position when re-tightening the LCA bolts.
     
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  22. Nov 21, 2020 at 10:12 AM
    #52
    A&P

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    Yep I plan on that but thanks again for all the info!!! I have to see if the alignment shop has Sat. hrs because I work 9:00- 5:00 normally BUT I could go in 7:00-4:00 if I have too! Just checked their website they do have 7:30-12:00 Saturdays!:yes:
     
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  23. Nov 21, 2020 at 1:13 PM
    #53
    billum v2.0

    billum v2.0 New Member

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    No opinion on pan drain valves.

    I used a cheap Pennzoil branded filter wrench because am on the road and found no alternative. It worked, but had to use a 17mm socket to loosen as the opening for a 3/8" drive head rounded out. The Motiv branded wrench setting in my garage is significantly heavier/stouter, but priced accordingly.

    Pay attention to these, would have helped the first time.

    @Agent_Outside advice is solid. The oil in the filter is under some pressure. It spewed a small amount of oil when I inserted drain tube before settling down and draining the rest. His advice would eliminate that problem.

    And @ElectroBoy eliminated biggest issue in my case. Buy a good 3/8" torque wrench and forget the alignment pointer.

     
  24. Nov 21, 2020 at 5:01 PM
    #54
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    I have a Fumoto valve. I love it.

    Just makes things cleaner and easier (not that it's hard to remove the oil pan drain plug in the first place, but you know what I mean).
     
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  25. Nov 22, 2020 at 12:08 PM
    #55
    ElectroBoy

    ElectroBoy Ad astra

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    If you’re a busy person who doesn’t have the time or don’t like wrenching on your vehicle, by all means, take your 4R to a trusted mechanic (not the dealer of jiffy lube, you’ll be sorry).

    But if you have a few extra tools you may kind of enjoy the oil change process. Like a drain plug valve, an oil filter drain valve, a good filter removal tool, and maybe the metal replacement oil filter housing. Getting your rig up on ramps may help too, it’s kind of tight crawling under there. The skid plate removal isn’t such a big deal, and I have a block of wood that I use to prop it up when reinstalling it.

    Here are some of my observations I noted in the other forum.
     

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