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Need guidance on changing head gaskets

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by Shortstack, Aug 1, 2016.

  1. Aug 1, 2016 at 6:42 AM
    #1
    Shortstack

    Shortstack [OP] New Member

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    So, as much as I tried denying it, and changed everything but this...the time has come...gotta change my head gaskets...I like to do it myself and SAVE MONEY!!

    anyways, this is where I am in my project...can someone give me some instructions as to what's next??

    20160728_135443.jpg
    20160728_135450.jpg
     
  2. Aug 1, 2016 at 6:49 AM
    #2
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 Moderator Staff Member

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  3. Aug 1, 2016 at 6:54 AM
    #3
    Shortstack

    Shortstack [OP] New Member

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    Since this picture was taken, I have lined everything up to TDC.
     
  4. Aug 10, 2016 at 9:52 PM
    #4
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    "Not all who wander are lost"
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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    Ok so as I guess I'm the resident expert here on this since I'm in the finishing stages I guess I'll chime in and help you not make the same mistakes I did.

    First- looks like you have a little more to go to get the heads off.

    Next take your time or it will make you bat shit crazy I promise you that. The cams can be a real pain in the ass the first time but I can help you through it. It's not that bad once you understand them.

    What else. Oh let me get you the number to the place we're I got my gasket kit from. The parts are WAY better than any BS you will get from a parts house I promise you that. Also do not reuse the head bolts like some people say. It's not worth doing over again.

    Oh hell I'm sure there is more we will go over but that's a good start.

    Oh really important! Don't loose the little round things under the cam shaft or get them out or order that will really f you up. I suggest pulling one head at a at me and taking all the cam shaft caps off and keeping them in order. You will need to do this in order to get all the head bolts out of the heads. Also if you don't have a 1/2 inch drive 13 point socket for the head bolts you will need one.

    Also getting the timing wheels off the cams is a real pain in the ass if they have never been taken off. To make things easy go and buy a tool to hold them in place it really helps ALOT then hit it with a GOOD impact gun. That factory lock tight is a real SOB.

    Another thing. Make sure the machine shop dose not screw up the cam gear and the sub gears on the shaft when they clean them like they did mine. I'll get you pics so you know what I'm talking about.

    After all the work I did this is were I'm at now.

    20160801_190913.jpg
     
    Bob likes this.
  5. Aug 10, 2016 at 9:55 PM
    #5
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    "Not all who wander are lost"
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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    I rebuilt it from a short block up. If you get hung up on anything let me know.

    Don't waste your money on the fel pro gasket and don't pay the dealer the price they want I'll get you the number to the guys you need to call for the good stuff that is much better in price also!!!!

    Blue

    20160801_152015.jpg
     
  6. Aug 10, 2016 at 9:57 PM
    #6
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    This is what a good triple layer copper gasket from japan looks like. HUGE DIFFERENCE

    20160728_171524.jpg
     
  7. Aug 10, 2016 at 10:05 PM
    #7
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    "Not all who wander are lost"
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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    Sorry I didn't read it all.

    First off were did you get TDC. From the cam wheels or at the bottom on the balancer?

    Next step is getting the lower intake off.

    Take everything off.

    Take off coolant hose at the back of the lower intake, take your time and don't do what I did and pull the temp sensor wire out of the clip. You can leave the fuel rail on the lower intake no need to take all the injectors off it will be fine connected. Once everything is disconnected undo all the bolts and get a small pry bar and give it a little movement just to break the seal on the lower intake gasket. Once that is done pull strait up and it will pull right out. Set it on the ground.

    Next you can start working on what o stated about for each side of the head. Just take your time and make sure you put them all in order on a table top. It the easiest way to do it.

    Hope this helps and I have not scared you off. It not that bad really if you don't over think the shit like I did lol....
     
    Bob likes this.
  8. Aug 10, 2016 at 10:11 PM
    #8
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    "Not all who wander are lost"
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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    This is the mark for TDC not the cam wheels that the t-belt rides on just so you know. This is behind the balancer below. Look at the marks on that plastic cover. It should be right at 0 degree. If it's not don't beat your self up over it that easy to deal with later with a 17mm socket hun and a breaker bar.

    20160728_165821.jpg
     
  9. Aug 10, 2016 at 10:12 PM
    #9
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    Remember this is a non interference engine also. So if your out of time when you put it all back together it's not going to damage anything....
     
  10. Aug 15, 2016 at 4:57 AM
    #10
    Shortstack

    Shortstack [OP] New Member

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    Man, thanks a million!!! I'm pretty close to having both heads off...all that's left is the driver side 3 exhaust bolts...I bought a full gasket kit with heads. #5 cylinder held water, so I'm gunna clean that up today. Then before putting it all back together, I'm gunna get a new timing belt!
     
  11. Aug 15, 2016 at 10:47 AM
    #11
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    They can be a real pain in the ass. Best advice for you. Go to Lowe's or home depot and get a small torch kit in the plumbing section or tool area. There about 30 bucks but with gold for stubborn bolts and nuts.
     
  12. Aug 15, 2016 at 6:03 PM
    #12
    Shortstack

    Shortstack [OP] New Member

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    What's the best thing to clean the heads with once they're pulled
     
  13. Aug 15, 2016 at 6:36 PM
    #13
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    You said you bought new heads? Why you worried about cleaning the old ones? None the less while the heads are off if I'm assuming correct they need to sent to a machine shop to be worked over to be safe! They will clean them for you.

    Blue
     
  14. Aug 15, 2016 at 6:43 PM
    #14
    Shortstack

    Shortstack [OP] New Member

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    Didn't end up buying new ones. Going to send the old ones to be machined tomorrow. The shop told me they need to be brought in already cleaned, they do not do that
     
  15. Aug 15, 2016 at 8:01 PM
    #15
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    What? Then find another shop. That's part of a service. How the hell do you clean the valves then. WTF????

    I'm sorry but that's BS

    Break clean is your friend though....

    Blue
     

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