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Metal oil filter housing

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by banjos-n-beer, Mar 31, 2022.

  1. Apr 26, 2022 at 7:44 AM
    #61
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    Same as @Jynarik

    I'm not certain either way. Sorry.
     
    banjos-n-beer [OP] likes this.
  2. Apr 26, 2022 at 7:47 AM
    #62
    banjos-n-beer

    banjos-n-beer [OP] New Member

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  3. Apr 26, 2022 at 8:23 AM
    #63
    Brandonium

    Brandonium New Member

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    I installed the Fumoto and metal filter housing this past weekend. Fumoto went on dry as it has on my other vehicles. No leaks at all.
     
  4. May 21, 2022 at 9:50 AM
    #64
    banjos-n-beer

    banjos-n-beer [OP] New Member

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    I installed the Fumoto valve and metal oil filter housing a few weeks ago. Luckily no bolts had been stripped and the original plastic housing looked good. I saved the plastic housing even though I’ll probably never need it now.

    I probably didn’t need to swap out the taller center piece for the oil filter element, but did so anyway. The height difference was almost negligible.
     
  5. May 21, 2022 at 10:22 AM
    #65
    Saker

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    You made the correct decision by swapping out the center piece as the one that came with your metal housing is for a different element.
     
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  6. May 21, 2022 at 5:14 PM
    #66
    CJT4Runner

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  7. Sep 29, 2022 at 9:28 PM
    #67
    qcTRDct

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    W
    What's the part # for this housing?
     
  8. Sep 30, 2022 at 9:06 AM
    #68
    Ironguy

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    You had best swap out the center section. Just use a bit of care when doing so because it is under spring tension. Bend back the center ear carefully and twist gently to remove.
     
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  9. Sep 30, 2022 at 6:57 PM
    #69
    airup12

    airup12 New Member

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    Anyone have issue with metal housing being seized on?
     
  10. Oct 1, 2022 at 11:15 AM
    #70
    Potsie

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    Everything is posted below to make the oil change as easy as possible. This has been posted plenty but here it all is in one post for anyone looking. The only other thing would be to buy a skid plate like rci,rsg etc that give you access. Makes this a ten minute job and zero mess. About 110-115$. The links I included have the Drain hose for the fumoto valve as well as the drain hose for the Filter.

    Motivx Tools Oil Filter Wrench and Drain Tool Set for Toyota & Lexus 2.0L - 5.7L Engines With Cartridge Style Oil Filter Systems https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078RJ2L25.

    Fumoto F133S Oil Drain Valve with Heavy Duty 3' Hose Kit - S/S F103S https://a.co/d/cnBGZ5K

    Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008BHP68A

    Genuine Toyota 04152-YZZA5 Replaceable Oil Filter Element https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044AXPMW
     
    Last edited: Oct 1, 2022
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  11. Oct 1, 2022 at 2:22 PM
    #71
    Captain Spalding

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  12. Oct 1, 2022 at 2:25 PM
    #72
    Potsie

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  13. Oct 1, 2022 at 2:43 PM
    #73
    Captain Spalding

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  14. Oct 1, 2022 at 9:30 PM
    #74
    qcTRDct

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  15. Oct 1, 2022 at 9:34 PM
    #75
    qcTRDct

    qcTRDct New Member

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    I am more interested in an oil filter relocation kit for the long run, but the cost for parts seems to add up quick, so we'll see...
     
  16. Oct 2, 2022 at 10:37 PM
    #76
    glwood54

    glwood54 Stop making me buy stuff!

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  17. Oct 4, 2022 at 10:40 PM
    #77
    McSpazatron

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    Interested about this too. I wonder ifnyou do extended 10k intervals, if the metal to metal contact would end up corroding itself together.
     
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  18. Oct 5, 2022 at 12:32 AM
    #78
    ElectroBoy

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    Both… same threads.

    No, doesn’t happen. Plus, think about how oily the threads are. Built-in anti seize.
     
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  19. Oct 5, 2022 at 6:12 AM
    #79
    golfguy

    golfguy New Member

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    If anyone is interested in one of these metal housings I have one that I will sell cheap. I had it on my rig for one oil change and took it off. It was extremely hard to remove.
     
  20. Oct 5, 2022 at 8:30 PM
    #80
    qcTRDct

    qcTRDct New Member

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    PM sent
     
  21. Nov 1, 2022 at 11:26 AM
    #81
    Singleminded

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    Anyone know how important it is to swap over the taller tube that comes with the stock plastic housing? As I think everyone knows, the aluminum version of this housing comes with a shorter tube. What might go wrong if you keep using that shorter tube???
     
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  22. Nov 1, 2022 at 1:08 PM
    #82
    MountainMan

    MountainMan New Member

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    It is a factory part used on the Camry. Pretty sure Toyota would not use it if there was an issue.
     
  23. Nov 1, 2022 at 2:46 PM
    #83
    Spare Parts

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    I did it for one less what if.
    when I took it in for the 5k toyo care, I made reference to installing the Fumoto valve and got a warranty not covered response.
     
  24. Nov 1, 2022 at 4:16 PM
    #84
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    Regarding the possibility of the metal seizing by corrosion….

    Toyota might be using that as an OE part on Camry’s, but I’m curious to see if they took any measures on the engine side to protect against seizing/corrosion.

    Even if they didnt, when I see how much surface area exists on the threaded area and the landing portion of the housing, it kinda freaks me out. If corrosion occurs over enough of those threads, or the landing portion (past the o-ring) and it gets stuck, the extraction process could get ugly.

    A typical seized bolt no matter how big, has less surface area on the thread. There’s more chance of it being loosened with an impact, and if it snaps, you can repair by redrill and retap .

    On the other hand, if this seized due to corrosion, it would probably be comparable to trying to break loose a huge stuck bolt on a huge mining dump truck…in terms of surface area fusing the metals together. Except they use steel. This is basically a huge hollow aluminum bolt that is going into a machined area of the engine, also aluminum.

    I know I’m overthinking it lol. And it will probably be fine as long as you change the oil out frequently.

    Unless you take it to a dealer for an oil change. If they “decide” to skip changing the filters once, that means it’s going to be on there for 20,000 miles. The lord help ya if they skip it twice.

    Im not sure that a metal filter housing provides any benefit at all. The plastic one is probably a safer bet considering the amount of thread involved, and considering that the threaded/machined area in the engine block, may actually be the block itself, not a replaceable part (if worse comes to worst).
     
  25. Nov 1, 2022 at 7:04 PM
    #85
    Singleminded

    Singleminded New Member

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    I wouldn't completely discount the corrosion / seizing concern, even though this housing is used on many other Toyota models, but the metal version clearly has the benefit of being much less fragile. It's apparent from user experience that it's too easy to break the tabs on the plastic version, and that can cause catastrophic failure -- as happened to me per my above post from yesterday.

    If I was worried about any issues with the metal version, and so wanted to stay with the stock plastic one, I'd just be sure to use a good wrench that does not touch those tabs -- one that just snugly grips the fluted portion of the housing. Just like the Motivx wrench many here have gotten.
     
  26. Nov 1, 2022 at 9:23 PM
    #86
    Slopemaster

    Slopemaster Slope Survivalist

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    My 10 year old Sequoia with nearly 200k miles still has the plastic oil filter housing and so far it’s not been a problem. And that’s with the dealership doing the oil changes every 5k.

    As far as the corrosion concern, it may be depend on where your located, for example, rust belt vs the desert.

    If you’re using the right filter wrench, breaking those tabs should be a none issue.
     
  27. Nov 1, 2022 at 10:24 PM
    #87
    McSpazatron

    McSpazatron New Member

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    I think those tabs are on the housing specifically to help spread torque across as much of the housing as possible in order to prevent overstressing it in any one area.

    Im curious, did your filter wrench only grab the housing at the tabs? Usually these housing filters wrenches should be making contact at the bottom like a traditional filter wrench, in addition to the tabs.

    As much as I dont like the inconvenience of these element filters, the appropriate wrench will make absolute better contact on the plastic housing, than the simple socket type wrenches for ever could on can filters. I’ve rounded out more than a few can filters over the years because they only grabbed at the bottom. Couple of skinned knuckles too, when they slip off.
     
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2022
  28. Nov 2, 2022 at 6:53 AM
    #88
    Singleminded

    Singleminded New Member

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    I used a wrench designed for this housing, being the correct 64 mm, 14 flutes and having slots to fit around the tabs. I think it was just poorly made. It had too much play in the fluted portion, not snug, which meant more pressure applied to the tabs.

    I’m confident that a wrench that fits the flutes snugly, like the Motivx, will have zero problems. A sloppy wrench would also prob work on the metal housing since so much less chance of breaking the tabs.

    I am still wondering about the shorter center tube that comes with the metal version. Is it really a problem to use that? The stock tube doesn’t reach all the way to the top of the filter anyway, so what’s an inch shorter gonna do?
     
  29. Nov 2, 2022 at 7:13 AM
    #89
    Spare Parts

    Spare Parts New Member

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    There are some wise ass comments to be made here, but I will refrain.
     
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  30. Nov 2, 2022 at 12:18 PM
    #90
    Toy4X4

    Toy4X4 New Member

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    I'm sure you already have the Fumoto valve, seeing how this question is a month old, but we had the long version on our 4Runner, and when installing it I took a piece of cardboard folded and checked the clearance, I installed the long nipple and ordered a short one to put on for the next oil change. The short one will help you sleep better, the long one was really close like was mentioned a month ago. We switched to the short though.. Just thought I'd let you know.
     
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