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JBL enclosure with JL 8w3

Discussion in '5th Gen Builds (2010-2024)' started by NotAnotherWhite4runner, Nov 13, 2021.

  1. Oct 18, 2022 at 10:23 PM
    #31
    spyder918

    spyder918 501st Unit: GGG

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    Damn..come and do mine for me..this is so clean..I’m all thumbs when it comes to sound/electronics..smh
     
  2. Oct 19, 2022 at 7:08 AM
    #32
    Okc4runner

    Okc4runner New Member

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    I don't think you'd have any chance of fitting a 10
     
  3. Oct 19, 2022 at 12:58 PM
    #33
    Super Green

    Super Green New Member

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    Thanks! I agree, I love me some audio upgrades/electronics. It came out super clean IMO, sounds amazing and was a lot of fun.

    A4793515-2BD3-49E0-97C3-A43EE2041182.jpg

    This pic was test fitment and cable runs prior to cutting down the harnesses and heat shrinking and taping.
    31399D96-A2CE-49A9-99E8-79983DEF6020.jpg
     
  4. Nov 23, 2022 at 8:51 AM
    #34
    kruscher

    kruscher New Member

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    Hey Super G, any update? Referencing your OCD, what did you use for your trim panel? Is that the OEM JBL enclosure with an amp mounted? Super clean! Thanks in advance
     
  5. Dec 8, 2022 at 12:18 PM
    #35
    Super Green

    Super Green New Member

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    Sorry, been real busy w/a move and an international family trip for a wedding.

    Used the OEM rear trim panel, mine had the JBL system and you're spot on; that is the OEM enclosure. I had to trim down some of the internal reinforcement 'webbing' inside the enclosure and mounted the amp in place of the OEM JBL amp.

    Point to mention, the amp in the picture does not power the sub. It's an 8 channel that powers all the door and dash speakers including the lift gate. It integrates into the factory inputs with the idatalink maestro AR unit which has a harness that's ~ 1ft in length. So I put this amp in the stock location and put my mono sub amp under the driver seat. Here's a pic from my test fit. 1E941E8C-9AE2-493C-96DF-819C1DC82D62.jpg
     
    CRSONE89 likes this.
  6. Apr 27, 2023 at 1:52 PM
    #36
    CRSONE89

    CRSONE89 New Member

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    Thats what’s up! And you did this with the stock JBL head unit still working fine? How did you install the idatalink maestro AR unit to integrate the factory amp with aftermarket amps? Did you run a separate power cable from the battery and a separate ground or have to use a remote wire? I totaled my 2010 sr5 and just picked up a ‘13 limited and swapped the door/dash speakers with JL C2’s. I also noticed only bass comes out of the door speakers with no highs or mids, were you able to work out that link too? Thanks in advance.
     
  7. May 10, 2023 at 7:31 AM
    #37
    Super Green

    Super Green New Member

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    Yes, I kept the factory head unit in place since it's more than sufficient. It's a JBL system so the maestro has a harness for direct integration with the jbl amp inputs/outputs. I just stuck it on the side of paneling right below the box and behind the power converter. In my test fit picture it's behind the gaggle of wire harnessing that I eventually cut down.

    With regards to your question, That's exactly how I wanted my setup. I run the audison and all 8 channels actively so my doors are pretty much all mids for fill. The sub handles the low range and the dash speakers are the highs. I set all the distance and timing so that the stage is 1 of 2 options, directly in front center of dash for when there's just me, or center of vehicle when there's passengers.

    I'm guessing you installed components and not coaxials so that could be your issue but not really sure without more info.
     
  8. Jun 23, 2023 at 2:29 PM
    #38
    Rob41

    Rob41 Veteran

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    Fantastic job on the install! I bookmarked this page for guidance since your set-up is exactly what I want to do.
     
  9. Jun 26, 2023 at 2:38 PM
    #39
    Metallic TRD Pro

    Metallic TRD Pro New Member

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    I'm considering going down the car audio rabbit hole. I have experience wiring door speakers and a box sub with a dedicated amp. I have a 2022 Pro with the factory JBL and was wondering if I could just simply remove my factory JBL sub and replace it with the JL Audio 8W3v3, since the JBL system comes with a dedicated amp for the factory sub. I am planning on updating to a ~400-watt @2 Ohm mono amp in the future with the JL sub, but I would rather stay with the factory sub amp if at all possible. I will be documenting this process along the way as soon as I get started.
    Thanks to anyone who responds.
     
  10. Jun 26, 2023 at 2:45 PM
    #40
    LadeDruck

    LadeDruck New Member

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    That monoblock looks like a zed audio chassis…?
     
  11. Dec 26, 2023 at 8:48 AM
    #41
    damon323

    damon323 New Member

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    Greaf job on this! I’m going to do the same with an Alpine gen 2. Do you happen to remember if you had like an extra 1/8 inch of clearance after installing the W3? That’s the difference in size with the Alpine I want to install. Really appreciate any insight on this. I know you had to sand out that webbing inside the box, but wondering how tight of a fit it was when you put the W3 in there
     
  12. Dec 26, 2023 at 5:11 PM
    #42
    WhenInRome618

    WhenInRome618 New Member

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    I fit an image dynamics id8 in a previous install which is 3/16" taller than the 8w3. Assuming website dimensions are accurate you should be good after some typical Dremel work.
     
  13. Dec 26, 2023 at 6:27 PM
    #43
    damon323

    damon323 New Member

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    Can’t begin to tell you how much I appreciate the reply! Thanks you!
     
    WhenInRome618[QUOTED] likes this.
  14. Dec 30, 2023 at 7:37 PM
    #44
    TrueTexas

    TrueTexas New Member

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    Y'all got me interested in this. I've been wanting to add a sub but didn't want to eat up any of the cargo space.

    My wife got me a Kicker 400.1 amp and 8" Kicker Comp R sub for Christmas. It was intended for the Jeep TJ but now I'm thinking they may find a home in the 4Runner.

    Couple if questions :

    1. How much did you dremel out of the enclosure to for the JL w3? Looks like the Kicker Comp R is a bit shallower than the JL (about 4.125" vs 4.6" depth respectively). Hoping to not dremel out the box but if I have to, it's no big deal.

    2. Looking at the pics of the audison amp mounted on the enclosure. I like this location as well. The Kicker is about 1.25" more narrow on the width but a little more height ( .65") and deeper (.38"). Do you think I can make the Kicker amp fit that spot?
     
  15. Dec 30, 2023 at 9:33 PM
    #45
    damon323

    damon323 New Member

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    Hey brother, you might be able to fit that sub in there without a Dremel. My JL Audio 8 inch W1 fit without needing to and it’s mounting depth is just under 3.9. So I can’t say for sure, but it’s a good possibility you should be good. For the amp, I couldn’t tell you cause mine went under the seat.

    You’ll want to throw max power at that kicker. I’m throwing 200 watts RMS at mine, which is 50 over its rating and I don’t even notice much of a difference.

    I was about to get the newer gen 2 Alpine Type-R(Alpine R2-W8D4). But my wife got me the JL Audio Stealthbox with the 10” shallow sub for the 5th gen 4Runner today.
    I was really curious how that Type R would’ve worked out though. It has even better specs than the W3, it’ll fit that factory enclosure, and what little I’ve seen online was really impressive. Hope this helps.
     
  16. Dec 31, 2023 at 12:02 PM
    #46
    TrueTexas

    TrueTexas New Member

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    Thanks for this. Seems like it may be possible for the Kicker Comp R to fit without any dremel work. When I eventually do this, I will report back for others.

    The amp may be a different issue though. I'm thinking the height and depth may be an issue. The more I read, the more I'm leaning towards a 5ch amp under the passenger seat and just going all in on the stereo upgrade. All speakers etc...

    I'm running the sub at 2 ohms so the Kicker will push 300w RMS and the sub can handle that. Should be an ideal combo regardless of which vehicle it ends up in.
     
  17. Jan 15, 2024 at 5:46 AM
    #47
    TightLines

    TightLines New Member

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    Yes, I want to do the same thing! Please document, this would be very helpful!
     
  18. Jan 16, 2024 at 3:06 PM
    #48
    Super Green

    Super Green New Member

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    I think if you just put the JL sub in,you'd be very disappointed. The factory amp sends about 40 watts to the sub. That's not nearly enough to power an aftermarket sub and you're more likely to damage either the sub or amp based on that. I wouldn't put in an aftermarket sub until you're ready to also install a dedicated amp to power it.
     
  19. Jan 17, 2024 at 12:13 PM
    #49
    TightLines

    TightLines New Member

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    This thread is awesome! I also want to add the JL 8W3v3 and for an amp JL JD250/1. Is there enough room behind the panel for this amp? It’s pretty small (2.1” x 9.5” x 7.5”). I’m afraid that one of my kids is going to kick the amp under one of the seats and/or spill something up into there! :)
     
  20. Jan 17, 2024 at 1:07 PM
    #50
    damon323

    damon323 New Member

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    I just made a kick panel on my amp rack that I formed….amp is mounted under front passenger seat. IMG_5524.jpg IMG_5863.jpg
     
  21. Jan 26, 2024 at 8:02 AM
    #51
    TightLines

    TightLines New Member

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    I have decided that step 1 is to install a JD500/1 amp to drive a 8w3v3-4 sub in the JBL enclosure. I will go to a dedicated amp for new dash/door speakers as stage 2.

    I know that I’ll need a DSP unit at some point but would like to wait to get that until step 2. My question is, can I use the existing speaker-level sub wires (post factory amp) into the JD500/1 or is it better to get a Line Out Converter to capture the signal? The Crutchfield guy says get the LOC, but I would rather not have the expense now since I’ll go with a nice DSP in the future, at which point I’ll use the sub output on the DSP.
     
  22. Jan 26, 2024 at 9:24 AM
    #52
    damon323

    damon323 New Member

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    I’m guessing you are using the factory head unit. I’d definitely say get the LOC. JL Audio’s LOC is awesome, and it’s only $99. Creative Audio had one for $64 last time I looked.
     
    TightLines[QUOTED] likes this.
  23. Feb 4, 2024 at 7:29 PM
    #53
    wafersmith

    wafersmith New Member

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    Does anyone know the part number for the rear panel that is for the built in sub? I have a OR without third row and cannot find the panel to replace the one that came on it to accommodate the new sub box. Thanks.
     
  24. Feb 8, 2024 at 6:35 AM
    #54
    RusPro17

    RusPro17 Back home again!!

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    I’m looking into doing this setup for the subwoofer replacement of the JBL. Definitely save money on going the stealth box.
     

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