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Installing Wheel Bearing Assembly

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by wnelax04sr5, Sep 28, 2014.

  1. Sep 28, 2014 at 6:02 PM
    #1
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    If you can change your brake pads/rotors, you can do this

    Step 1. Buy the wheel bearing and hub from @nj636 super high quality part
    https://www.4runners.com/threads/4th-5th-gen-front-hub-assemblies-4x4-4x2.154/

    2. Remove tire and wheel
    3. If you have spidertrax, like i do, take them off now. i put a long screwdriver in the rotor against the caliper so that it didn't spin while i removed them, then, make a pile
    IMG_20140928_111855_953.jpg
    4. remove the bracket holding the abs and brake lines on to the spindle, 12mm i believe
    5. remove the caliper, two 17 mm bolts, they're on pretty damn tight
    note; make sure you support it, don't bend the brake hard lines
    6. take off the rotor, depending where you live and how long its been since it was replaced, you may need to persuade it
    7. i removed the 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing/hub assembly on next, 17mm again, can be done either before or after the axle nut, i chose after
    note; can only be done with the open end of a wrench, not a lot of room.
    8. pop off the dust cap/hub cap, may take some prying if its never been off, i worked a flat handle screwdriver around the entire thing and it came off
    9. you need a 35 mm socket, deep well helps but isn't necessary
    IMG_20140927_130412_921.jpg
    10. this is what you should be at now, impact gun works best to take off the axle nut, it isn't frozen on like the rest of my rusted new england vehicle
    note; it has a cotter pin, nut cap, and the nut itself
    IMG_20140928_111845_658.jpg
    11. put a piece of soft wood or use a lead hammer against the exposed piece of the axle, and lightly tap it till it breaks loose. don't hit it hard or you'll risk damage threads or the axle
    12. i used the pry bar end of my tire iron that comes in the toyota tool kit with the spare tire crank to pry the assembly off. work your way around and it will slowly come off, don't rush this step or you risk damaging the axle and/or the dust shield.
    13. once you pull it off, the dust shield will drop. to reattach the dust shield an extra set of hands really helps.
    13. now would be the time to replace the dust seal for the knuckle.
    the part $4 Skf 18491 Axle Sealhttp://www.amazon.com/SKF-18491-Front-Axle-Seal/dp/B001DBOLHS
    14. to reinstall, repeat all steps, i didn't write down torque numbers so i don't have them off the top of my head.
    this is what you should finish with.
    IMG_20140928_114834_619.jpg
    and this is the old piece
    IMG_20140928_112447_046.jpg

    and no, my garage isn't carpeted, but laying down some pieces sure saves the knees and elbows
     
    Last edited: Sep 29, 2014
  2. Sep 28, 2014 at 10:00 PM
    #2
    Bob

    Bob Member Staff Member

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    great writeup :thumbsup:

    added to the Mods & Tutorials menu at the top of the site
     
    nj636 likes this.
  3. Sep 29, 2014 at 5:22 AM
    #3
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    Thanks :cheers:
     
  4. Sep 29, 2014 at 3:50 PM
    #4
    brutalguyracing

    brutalguyracing New Member

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    i would add the new knuckle dust shield so you will not be doing this again allot sooner
     
  5. Sep 29, 2014 at 4:08 PM
    #5
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    forgot to put that in the write up, ill amend it
     
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  6. Apr 7, 2015 at 9:31 AM
    #6
    nuclearn8

    nuclearn8 New Member

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    maybe a dumb question but 35mm 6pt or 12pt for the axle nut?
    Also any other seals you'd replace if doing the axles at the same time as the njfox bearing swap? I saw the mention of the knuckle dust seal..

    thanks
     
  7. Apr 7, 2015 at 9:39 AM
    #7
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    i used a 6pt, no other seals really, i suppose if it was cracked or broken you could replace the metal axle nut cover (hubcap)
     
  8. Apr 19, 2015 at 7:36 PM
    #8
    inglwd

    inglwd New Member

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    Excellent write up. I used this for the front right bearing replacement I did today. Kevin as mentioned above provided a high quality part for about $175. My experience would have benefited from the following knowledge: 1) salt belt states this job is harder. The bolts are really on there. Impact wrench was a big help. 2) after the 4 hub bolts were unscrewed as far as they could be, the next part is the hardest part of the job and you will break the dust shield with an air chisel, as I did. That said, I needed an air chisel to break it out from the axle. I wish I would have known how fragile the dust shield was before taking this on. Also take a close look at your new part right now to know how deep the hub is set in the carrier. Helpful during extraction.
     
  9. Apr 20, 2015 at 7:28 AM
    #9
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    interesting points here. i live in the salt belt as well and didn't experience too much trouble with stuck on parts, the dust shield was very difficult to get off though, i agree with you there
     
  10. Jul 5, 2015 at 12:00 PM
    #10
    Idorablo

    Idorablo New Member

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    I need a set for a 1998 4 runner Limited 4x4 how can I buy a set
     
  11. Jul 5, 2015 at 3:57 PM
    #11
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    @nj636
     
  12. Jul 6, 2015 at 4:12 AM
    #12
    nj636

    nj636 New Member Vendor

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    my assemblies are for the 03+ 4Runners
     
  13. Jul 6, 2015 at 4:28 AM
    #13
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    i tried. thanks kevin
     
  14. Jul 6, 2015 at 7:22 AM
    #14
    Idorablo

    Idorablo New Member

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    Okay thanks
     
  15. Sep 23, 2015 at 10:30 AM
    #15
    backman180

    backman180 New Member

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    Im no expert but in the middle of this job and comparing notes to other forum DIY's and doesnt it make sense to take the axle nut off before the caliper and rotor. Im in a bit of jam in that I cant stop the hub assembly from spinning to remove the axle nut (no brakes). I put the vehicle in gear but I dont do this often and It doesn't feel good to put that much force into the axle to break this nut loose with a breaker bar. I may be being sensitive, but im concerned about damaging the axle to break this nut loose. Had I reversed the order I could have another body mash the brakes while I loosened the nut. Maybe not necessary but not sure what the best move is from here. Any thoughts. Am I missing something?
     
  16. Sep 23, 2015 at 11:46 AM
    #16
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    i waited until after to take it off, i have an air impact gun and coupled with the socket it was incredibly easy to remove, i didn't really have any issues with it
     
  17. Sep 24, 2015 at 12:23 PM
    #17
    UssMoGn

    UssMoGn That Vegas Dude

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    You damn 4th and 5th Gens make it look so easy
     
  18. Sep 24, 2015 at 2:48 PM
    #18
    nj636

    nj636 New Member Vendor

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    you won't hurt the cv shaft. put it in 4 wheel or have someone hold a pry bar between the studs while you loosen the nut. it's 173 foot pounds so it won't take much force to loosen it.

    torque it when you reinstall
     
  19. Nov 16, 2015 at 12:03 PM
    #19
    LTDSC

    LTDSC Soccer Dad Extraordinaire

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    re-reading this for tonights swap
     
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  20. Mar 23, 2017 at 4:32 PM
    #20
    Blue_Eyes_48

    Blue_Eyes_48 New Member

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    Hi,I am wondering if I can swap my pressed on wheel bearings for another type if there is one. It's going to be way too costly for me to get the front ones fixed beings that they are pressed.
    Thank you,
    Crystal
     
  21. Mar 26, 2017 at 4:48 PM
    #21
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    the most cost effective method is to use the pre assembled wheel bearing/hub assembly, it makes it a bolt on piece thats very easy
     
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  22. Mar 28, 2017 at 8:35 PM
    #22
    nj636

    nj636 New Member Vendor

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    $175 for a DIY bolt on assembly -- The shops charge way to much & re-use parts that should not be re-used.
     
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  23. Mar 31, 2017 at 2:39 PM
    #23
    Blue_Eyes_48

    Blue_Eyes_48 New Member

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    So all I need is a wheel-hub assembly that doesn't need pressed on? Thanks for the replies.
    Crystal
     
  24. Apr 1, 2017 at 3:50 PM
    #24
    wnelax04sr5

    wnelax04sr5 [OP] Moderator Staff Member

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    that an an oil seal and youre good to go
     
  25. Apr 2, 2017 at 8:12 PM
    #25
    nj636

    nj636 New Member Vendor

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    Yes I have the wheel hub assembly and if needed, the cv dust seal. 50/50 shot if the cv seal is damaged or not. You won't know until the hub assembly is unbolted from the spindle. The cv seal is easy to replace.
     
  26. Jul 26, 2017 at 4:52 AM
    #26
    larramo

    larramo 3ed gen faithfully

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    3" lift but mostly all stock not a scratch on it it is pristine condition amazing for being 19 years old.
    if you want to swap out the pressed in bearing for the easy hub assembly you will have to change the whole hub assembly unit. so it would be upper and lower control arms the half shafts but i don't think you can swap a 1998 to a 2001 or 2002. besides the pressed in bearings last a hell of a lot longer than the other hubs in the 2002 you can go almost 300.000 miles on the pressed in bearings if you make sure the oil seals are kept in good shape. LARRY B.
     
  27. Jul 26, 2017 at 5:04 AM
    #27
    larramo

    larramo 3ed gen faithfully

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    3" lift but mostly all stock not a scratch on it it is pristine condition amazing for being 19 years old.
    besides when you take the hub assembly to the machine shop they should not charge you more than 65$ per side to press them in all you need to take them is the oil seals the bearing the abs ring all the parts i'm talking about will cost you $340 from toyota for both sides i get my parts from camelback toyota you can find them on the web at camelbacktoyota.com there prices are 20% cheaper than anywhere else. don't use parts from oreillys or autozone you will be sorry they will not last LARRY B.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2017
  28. Nov 15, 2017 at 6:53 PM
    #28
    radlynx

    radlynx New Member

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    Save yourself the hassle of pressing in and out of the old bearing. You can buy it from here cheap. $98 4Runner / Tacoma / FJ Cruiser - Wheel Hub Bearing Assembly - (4x4) - with ABShttps://www.ebay.com/itm/4Runner-Ta...ub-Bearing-Assembly-4x4-with-ABS/112643309394


     
  29. Nov 26, 2017 at 5:59 PM
    #29
    nj636

    nj636 New Member Vendor

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  30. Nov 27, 2017 at 5:02 PM
    #30
    radlynx

    radlynx New Member

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    yes, its a cheap one but of good quality. I use it myself in my truck. if anyone is interested to save on cost, this is your other option.
     

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