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How to replace spark plugs **pictures**

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by ramonortiz55, Jun 6, 2015.

  1. Jun 6, 2015 at 8:19 PM
    #1
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 [OP] New Member

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    Here is my write up with photos on a 3rd generation 4Runner spark plug install:

    We are going to start with the driver's side of the 4runner:

    [​IMG]

    Went ahead and picked up an OEM set of spark plugs and spark plug wires:

    [​IMG]

    Notice the wires on the 4runner are numbered. The new wiring will have the same numbering system. We need to make sure that we replace each wire with its corresponding number!

    [​IMG]

    Before starting job, scare off any nearby roosters. They tend to be bad omens when working on vehicles.

    [​IMG]

    We need to remove some stuff out of the way so we can have room to work with:

    Removing ground wire and nut

    [​IMG]

    Diagnostics plug:

    [​IMG]

    Once these are out of the way we should be able to have full access to the first spark plug wire, tug on it to pull out. Gently. If its stubborn, twist and pull. Work it slowly.

    [​IMG]

    Careful not to drop any debris once it has been removed:

    [​IMG]

    Well need a ratchet and a spark plug socket, an extension is required.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Here I pulled out the spark plug:

    [​IMG]

    Compare with the new ones to make sure we bought the same ones. The used spark plugs look good. Oily, burnt or broken spark plugs are an indication of engine issues.

    [​IMG]

    To install the new plugs, I recommend using anti seize lubricant. This prevents the spark plugs from sticking and allows easy removal in the future:

    [​IMG]

    Apply lightly:

    [​IMG]

    Install new spark plug carefully, making sure it will not cross thread. Tighten snugly.

    [​IMG]

    To get to the next spark plug, we are going to have to remove some hoses temporarily or move them out of the way.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    Hose bracket:

    [​IMG]

    Removing these will allow access to the second spark plug:

    [​IMG]

    Lightly add anti sieze and install the same manner as the first one.

    Accessing the third spark plug is not so difficult, will need to just push some hoses out of the way:

    [​IMG]

    I recommend installing the spark plug wiring as you install each spark plug. This prevents mix ups and makes sure that we are installing the right wire at the right plug. Remember the numbering scheme on the wiring!

    Finalized drivers side:

    [​IMG]

    Now the passenger side involves a little more work to access all three plugs:

    [​IMG]

    Removing hose from air box assembly:

    [​IMG]

    Loosen screws and clamps:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Once lose, the air box assembly can be twisted and removed:

    [​IMG]

    Revealing the spark plugs..they look different!

    [​IMG]

    Notice that the end of the spark plugs wires are different than the drivers side:

    [​IMG]

    See the letter P? That's where they plug at!

    [​IMG]

    Here, I remove the wiring, careful not to break the retaining clips!

    [​IMG]

    Once the two wires up the coils are removed, the spark plugs can be replaced the same manner as the driver's side!

    Remember to use anti sieze, don't over tighten, and thread carefully!
     
  2. Jun 13, 2015 at 2:13 PM
    #2
    TheDurk

    TheDurk New Member

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    Very nice write-up. I have two comments.

    To avoid cross-threading, I have an 18" length of 3/8" fuel tubing in my tool kit. Slip the hose over the porcelain insulator and use it to insert the plug in the threaded hole. If it's threaded correctly, plug will turn just fine. If it cross-threads, hose will slip warning you to try again. You just get a much better "feel" than using a wrench (which you still need for the final turns.)

    NGK's website states that their plugs do not require anti-seize. I've been using NGK stock plugs every 30k since 1999 (170k now) with no anti-seize and no problems. According to NGK, use of anti-seize can lead to over-torquing.

    http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/dyk_5points.pdf
     
    more4than2 likes this.
  3. Jun 15, 2015 at 6:26 PM
    #3
    RideFast

    RideFast New Member

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    B&M tranny cooler, 5'' deck plate, Airaid MIT
    Well done!
    Ill chime in as well.
    I like to add an extendable magnet to the tool list to pull the plug out and gently drop the new one in.
    My dad gave me a tip years ago, so Ill share with everyone.
    Use some electrical tape to tape your socket to your extension just incase the two come apart. If the two come apart your neighbors and family to hear every cuss word you know.
     
  4. Jun 15, 2015 at 7:55 PM
    #4
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks for the input guys! I have done the tape thing to the socket extensions. I agree with the antiseize, it's just a matter a preference. Many of us do it different ways. I always make sure to tighten them snugly because I am scared of breaking the spark plugs while I am threading them in.
     
  5. Jun 18, 2015 at 11:56 PM
    #5
    Utah

    Utah Misanthrope

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    Kevin
    Land of Fake Beer
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    Roosters are cocks.
     
  6. Jun 19, 2015 at 7:42 PM
    #6
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 [OP] New Member

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    he was cock blocking me.
     
  7. Sep 3, 2015 at 9:15 PM
    #7
    dmdanek

    dmdanek New Member

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    Thank you for the tutorial. I bought my 4Runner new in 02 and it finally needs some tuning up. The plugs were a bit perplexing at first glance but this makes it a lot easier. I'm still not totally clear on replacing the wires... or the rooster. But your post will give me a great start!
     
    ramonortiz55 likes this.
  8. Sep 9, 2015 at 2:33 AM
    #8
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 [OP] New Member

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    you welcome bud!
     
  9. May 23, 2017 at 2:04 PM
    #9
    Get_Armed

    Get_Armed New Member

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    Stock for now!
    About to do this later today, nice write up and pics!
     
    ramonortiz55 likes this.
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