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How to remove 1GR-FE Crankshaft Pulley

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by Jbriggsnh, Jun 28, 2016.

  1. Jun 28, 2016 at 4:05 PM
    #1
    Jbriggsnh

    Jbriggsnh [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jun 12, 2016
    Member:
    #2145
    Messages:
    9
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Joe
    Vehicle:
    2004 4runner
    I bought a 2004 4Runner from a coworker that had a #6 cylinder head gasket leak diagnosed by the dealer. I am doing this as a project with my boys.

    TOOLS:
    M22 x 1/2" shallow hex socket for pulley bolt
    18" x 1/2" breaker bar
    3" x 1/2" ratchet extension
    24" x 1/2" ratcheting breaker bar
    12" x 1" steel pipe for breaker bar (30" pipe from Lowes, $14, cut once for $.25 at 12")
    4 each M8 X 125 X 60 bolts
    PC harmonic Balance Puller Set - from Advance Auto Parts #21400 - about $19
    Toyota Spanner wrench #6613


    The shop manual says remove the air cleaner, intake manifold, valve covers, exhaust manifold, power steering pump, AC compressor, and alternator (just disconnect from engine and set aside). Next, remove the radiator and crankcase pulley, followed by the timing chain to free up the heads, then the camshaft and finally the head itself. Wow!

    Anyway, this is just about removing the crankshaft pulley as I have heard of nightmares doing it.

    First of all, I purchased a Toyota Cam Tool/Spanner Wrench from www.otctools.com, #6613. I got mine from eBay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/322134104500 for $55. This had M10 threaded holes, but the pulley has two M8/60 threaded holes. So stop by ACE hardware and get 4 M8/60 X 125 bolts, and 4 nuts. While you are there, get a 12" x 1" steel pipe to use a a breaker bar.


    Use two nuts to secure the bolts in the holes to secure them solidly or else you will end up with a twisted mess. Then screw the bolts into the pulley holes and snug it in. Next, rotate the spanner to rest against the water pump housing.

    Now take that 18" x 1/2" breaker bar and put the M22 socket along with the short 3" extension on the pulley bolt, and slip the steel pipe over the handle for a little more leverage (This is what worked for me - you get the gist). Pull very hard COUNTER-CLOCKWISE and it will release. Its difficult but the pipe made it happen. My 24" ratcheting breaker bar alone would not do it, and its nice rubber handle prevented the pipe from slipping over the top. The 18" with 12" pipe did the trick for me. Remove the nut, and remove the spanner. Both of the bolts on my spanner were slightly bent at this point.

    Now get the gear puller and set it up to use the extra two M8 X 125 X 60 bolts. Be sure to use washers (provided with the puller), and don't forget to add the adapter to the end of the pulley bolt that fits into the pulley hole (that you removed the pulley M22 pulley bolt from). Snug the puller as close to the pulley as possible. Also, before screwing down on the puller bolt, make sure that the puller surface is parallel to the pulley (that both sides are at an equal distance to the pulley). Now slowly start turning in on the puller bolt. Mine popped right off.

    Good luck.

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    Last edited: Jun 29, 2016
  2. Jun 30, 2016 at 4:15 AM
    #2
    RonT4R

    RonT4R New Member

    Joined:
    Mar 24, 2015
    Member:
    #526
    Messages:
    553
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ron
    Virginia Beach
    Vehicle:
    2007 4runner SR5 4WD
    Good info to know.....thanks.
     

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