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HOW TO: 2UZ-FE (V8) Power Steering pump replacement and fluid flush

Discussion in '4th Gen 4Runners (2003-2009)' started by zopperman, Apr 6, 2014.

  1. Apr 6, 2014 at 7:45 PM
    #1
    zopperman

    zopperman [OP] New Member

    Joined:
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    First Name:
    Zak
    Arlington, VA
    Vehicle:
    2003 Silver Limited V8
    LED & HID positive
    My PS pump was on its last legs:

    So for this you will need:

    v8 power steering pump (mine is cardon branded reman'd from advance auto which came to aorund 65 after core charges)

    4 quarts dex III ATF

    "pressure gasket" from toyota - will update with PN later. It's basically a double gasket U shaped crush washer thing. The cardone pump came with 3 O rings and 2 crush washers - you could use these instead but I chose to get the OEM part for 3 dollars. It is also much easier to position that two separate washers over the banjo bolt.

    6 pack of beer, 12 pack if a buddy is helping.

    Step 1:

    Crack open a cold one

    05E3DC1A-A533-45B8-A2F0-8A0BBDCDFB87_f67b6f22480b00947da93d95c0e030f971550f7a.jpg

    Step 2:

    Drain the PS system via the return line. The suction line is on the bottom of the reservoir, the return line is on the side. Follow it to the driver side and disconnect it from the steering rack. Use a pair of channel locks on the clip, slide it back and disconnect the hose. It will get everywhere, have a drain pan ready and let it bleed.

    A2DC0FC6-2555-4E46-B1D9-4E8E3D8648CC_0fcd7078390a50a909a91ddfc03d616542be213c.jpg

    Step 3: disconnect the lines from the reservoir, vacuum lines from the pump, remove the intake crap via the bands.

    this is the suction line removed after letting it drain

    9F363EC5-B511-4881-A878-A5A34F0E66C9_54e16ce4de81eeb9adcc0a24a546f592bdbb03ab.jpg

    Step 4: remove belt, 14mm tensioner

    Step 5: Remove the banjo bolt. This might leak a little too. Discard the old double gasket thing and remove the union. it should come off easily.

    Step 6: Remove the 3 bolts holding the PS pump in place. The top "bolt" is a stud threaded into the engine block with a star socket on one end and a nut. When I took mine off, the nut took the whole stud out. You may just get the nut to come off. I took the nut off and threaded this back into the block first when affixing the new pump.

    Step 7: Remove the pump and pulley. Note that the pulley is splined and should come right off. Put it on your new pump and tighten down the nut. Also remove the union fitting from the old pump, the one little nut on the side. Replace the O ring on the inside of the fitting with the small O ring in the new pump box.

    Here is the assembled new pump with the old union and pulley on it:

    AE10D308-B00C-48B1-B802-A4E53BCD3487_575e2b2edf5203ee624510ecae27986c3f7194d2.jpg

    Step 8: Put the top stud back in place, line up the other 2, tighten the pump in place.

    Stud in place:

    76B2569D-4F94-44EF-AA6D-FEC7F002A7AA_c7d3981ab391cdde1337ec6ee8693ccedec82f0d.jpg

    Step 9 (optional): remove reservoir and clean with brake cleaner and simple green or similar.

    Step 10: Jack up the front end, get the both wheels off the ground.

    Step 11: replace the reservoir.

    Time to flush: Disconnect the return line and plug the reservoir with something. I used a finger and had someone else helping. Point the return line downward and put a drain pan under it. Reconnect everything else. Have someone turn the wheel lock to lock while you pour 3 quarts of ATF through the system and it flushes out through the return line. Reconnect the return line and fill the reservoir up to the cold max line.

    Remove the jack stands, put the belt back on. Drive around for a while then add fluid to at least the hot min line after the system has warmed up.

    :thumb3:
     
    SuthrnT4R, Sean2202 and Shauncho like this.
  2. Apr 8, 2014 at 10:18 AM
    #2
    Austin

    Austin New Member

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    judging from the first pic I think you repeated step 1 quite a few times before moving on lol.. nice right up man

    :taco:
     
    Shauncho and zopperman [OP] like this.
  3. Apr 8, 2014 at 10:19 AM
    #3
    Shauncho

    Shauncho New Member

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    haha yeah, that should read "crack open a cold one...or four."
     
  4. Oct 12, 2017 at 6:57 AM
    #4
    Sean2202

    Sean2202 New Member

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2017
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    #4885
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    Thanks for posting this writeup. How did you come to the conclusion that your pump had failed? I have a 2uz with 180k original pump which has become more noisy lately. I have no loss of power steering or fluid. There is also a strange smell in the general area which is intermittent like something burning. Checked all bearings with belt off and all seemed good. Pump had a very slight bit of play in the pulley back and forth. Is your new pump pulley tight?

    I have also heard there is a screen in reservoir that becomes clogged but have not verified this.

    Did you have to replace any hoses due to hardening or wear?
     
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