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Hardwiring Dash Cam

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010+)' started by Honz, Oct 18, 2020.

  1. Sep 4, 2021 at 7:56 AM
    #31
    sduck

    sduck New Member

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    Sorry to necrobump this thread. I'm getting ready to do a hardwire of the blackvue 900 2-ch. What I'd like to find out, if anyone knows, is which fuses provide the right power - I.E. one switched, and one always on? Does anyone know?
     
  2. Sep 4, 2021 at 5:18 PM
    #32
    JaSC

    JaSC New Member

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    I'm looking to do similar. I have two cameras I used in my Jeep and want to use power from rearview mirror for front but Dongar Technologies seems to be only game in town, and they are out of stock. My 2018 4Runner is a 7-pin.
     
  3. Sep 4, 2021 at 10:37 PM
    #33
    whippersnapper02

    whippersnapper02 New Member

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    I went to headunit power wiring since my camera requires constant 12 volt for parking mode and a trigger for normal recording mode. The wiring setup for Blackvue cameras is a bit dumb since you need a separate box to control the power for parking mode but they released a new version that doesn't need a separate box. My Thinkware camera didn't need a separate control box but they have button cell batteries on the board that are known to go bad in the sun like mine did.
     
  4. Sep 10, 2021 at 3:24 PM
    #34
    210_Taco4runner

    210_Taco4runner New Member

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    Where did you attach the power to?
     
  5. Sep 11, 2021 at 6:59 PM
    #35
    sduck

    sduck New Member

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    Answering my own post, in case it helps someone in the future. It's all pretty easy, once you actually know what you're doing (which I didn't). For clarification, this is for a Blackvue 900x, with the included hardwiring power cable.

    I was able to tap power - both switched and unswitched, from the fusebox under the dashboard. You need two fusetap devices in the Low Profile Mini (ATM-LP) size. In my 2021 ORP these is one unused fuse spot, that has always-on power, so use that for the BATT+ connection, And you can use just about any of the fuses on the other side for the switched (ACC+) connection. Definitely check with a DMM to make sure that the fuse socket is switched, and to make sure which side is live so you can orient the fuse correctly. Find instructions on how to use these fuse taps online if you're not sure. There is a large obvious bolt right behind the fusebox that you can use for the ground connection - you want a 10mm nut driver to remove and retighten it. Note that your fusebox cover won't fit back on after doing this - store it in a safe place until you decide to change this, or sell the car or whatever.

    Running the wire is simple - attach the camera to the windshield, plug in the power cable, and start tucking it - first behind the headliners, then work your way around above the A pillar cover, then down behind the weatherstripping - use your spudger of choice to make it easier, although you probably won't need it for most of this. Then there's a little pocket to the side of the fusebox you can put your surplus wire into. Disconnect the wire from the camera before making the power connections. After making all the connections, tuck the remaining loose wires into that same pocket. Then plug in your camera and let it do it's thing - done!

    (edit - I've since read that you can easily remove the cover on the A pillar - a screw behind the airbag label - and easily run the wire in there instead as described above)

    I haven't wired in the back camera yet - still trying to figure out how to best attach the camera to the headliner.

    386897d1631223517-dashcam-recommendation_d77b84f8b97cbc5e94ce2606507f49b5072b1981.jpg
     

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