Does this rust concern you?

I am looking at purchasing a 4Runner that is around 7 years old and only has around 70k miles on it, however it has some rust. The seller seems reputable and says it’s only surface rust. Would the rust in these images concern you? I am not a car expert and don’t really know what’s normal and what’s cause for concern.

 

Welcome to the forum, your pics. are not working.

 

Post updated. And thanks!

 

Some of the rust appears to be surface rust only. The pic of the frame next the exhaust is a bit bothersome though. Can you get under the vehicle with a wire brush and do a little scraping? Overall it doesn't appear to be terrible.

 

Looks perfectly normal to me. I wouldn't be worried.

 

I see no rust.

 

Welcome from Wisconsin! a lot of that rust can be wire brushed and brushed with some rust inhibitor, then reapply after a little more brushing. Put a wire brush wheel on your cordless drill, that will work.

 

Welcome and I agree, it doesn’t look like an issue.

 

If you do but it, make sure you take care of that rust right away. Don't let it continue.

 

If I buy this, I'd like for it to last another 200k miles. Would rust like this eventually kill the car before then?

 

Looks really good! Easily managed. Most in the upper Midwest are worse and still on the road. Got a buddy with an FJ that is solid but red from oxide and he’s running at 289k. Like others have said; brush, convert and coat, you’ll be fine.

Check the front crossmember underneath the radiator, these tend to rot. Also stick your finger in a few of the open holes along the frame rails to feel the inside channel for pitting or flaking. This is what will kill you truck.

 

Take a ball peen hammer to the frame, there should be no thud or dead noise, looks ok though. Where are you located? If you buy it, make sure to hit it with wool wax or fluid film. That should last you 200k

 

I am in VA. It's a bit of a drive to where the vehicle is so unfortunately I cannot just go over and check out the frame.

 

That's normal for a 7 year old vehicle that's not from down south or out west. When I bought my 2013 almost 2 years ago, it looked like this if not a little worse. I spent a couple days underneath it with a wire wheel and some wire brushes and sanded off all the loose stuff, then had it fluid filmed. Over a year later it still looks great. I wouldn't be concerned.

One thing to check also, check the bottom of the doors inside and under the hood. That's one thing I didn't check on mine, under the hood. After it was too late I noticed that there was a surprising amount of rusty things under the hood, worse than my Volvo that's 6 years older.

 

Where I live, the roads are salted much less. If I cleaned up the rust and sprayed it as you guys are suggesting, would I be good to go? Or since the rust has started, would it come back and be something I have to handle periodically.

 

That rust looks very treatable from those photos. Your main do use should be on the inside of the frame since they rust from the inside out. Wouldn’t hurt to get a cheap endoscope to stick in there and find any bad spots. Do your research online since there is ample info out there and find which course of action you want to take.

 

Does anyone know what this part is that appears to have been replaced?

 

Transfer case.

 

I think you have circled the transfer case...what makes you think it appears to have been replaced?

 

Bet the color of it compared to the rest of the underside.

 

A friend of mine who’s a mechanic thought it looked like it might have been replaced.

I think that’s correct. The blue writing on it might have had something to do with it too.

 

Since the transfer case runs directly with the transmission and driveshafts, should I be concerned if it was replaced at some point?

 

If you haven't already, I think you should coordinate with the seller to have them drive it to a 3rd party mechanic of your choice and drop it off for the most thorough inspection. It is what I did prior to flying out to pick my 4R up. Depending on the shop, not only will the mechanic call you after he has completed his inspection, but you will get a full report. I strongly suggest you fork over for the highest level of inspection. It's less out of pocket in the long run if things break sooner than later. You can pay over the phone as you should technically cover the cost.

That said, my report was detailed and required only a couple of things that needed replacement based on wear. I had those immediately done upon returning home, and that mechanic shop did another inspection (courtesy) and was good to go. I feel a number of your questions can be answered there.

 

I personally think you are looking too hard for something wrong. 7 years and 70k miles chances are very small its a disaster.

But I second the 3rd party inspection and make a decision.

 

So I had a 3rd party inspection done, he wasn't worried about the rust (he said it looked like mostly surface rust), but he could tell that the car was damaged in an accident at the front left. He said there was a new wheel, and new suspension with all new parts done recently. He said that it looked like it was done right, and he couldn't find anything that concerned him mechanically. He also said that up close he could tell the paint was redone. I could get this one or another one that's a year older (2012) with about 18k more miles for $1000 more. Any thoughts? The one would be a great deal compared to everything else that's on the market, if there really was no damage done long term. However I guess there's a slight risk. The other one would be a year older, slightly more expensive, and slightly more miles, but it hasn't been in any accidents.

Normally I wouldn't really consider something that's been in an accident, but it's from a reputable dealer who doesn't sell cars that are risky to their customers, and the third party mechanic also said that it looked good to him as far as he could see.

 

I got rear ended back in 1996 to the tune of $9000. I still have the vehicle and have never had an issue with it. If your mech says he sees no issue with the accident but you kind of do, then you can either talk them down on the price pointing out the accident or to totally clear your mind, get the other one. There is no way I would get an older one with more miles and also pay more. But that is up to you.

 

Here’s a thread from TacomaWorld on just about everything imaginable dealing with rust prevention there is.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/rust-prevention-treatment-consolidation-thread.355928/