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Disable daytime running lights (DRL) on a 2000 SR5

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by Husky Driver, Oct 6, 2015.

  1. Oct 6, 2015 at 11:50 PM
    #1
    Husky Driver

    Husky Driver [OP] Sitka's chauffeur

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    40°35'09.0"N 105°04'38.3"W
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    2k T4R3 SR5 Highlander Sport TRD
    Toytec Ultimate 3" lift susp w/ OME 891 rear coils, Bilstein 5100 shocks front & 5125 rear, ARB 'Roo Bar, Warn VR10k, 0.7, 2 & 11-meter 2 way radios, Nitrogen inflated 33" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2s, FlexFuel E-85 conversion, AFe lifetime filter, Savage Offroad rock sliders, Ryno All Terrain 4.5mm skid plates, Line-X coatings on the armor, LifetimeLED & Rigid Industries LED headlights, UltraGauge 1.2, T3q 4.10 eLocker with armor from LROR, AmsOil lubricants used throughout. CBI plate rear bumper with swingaway, SPC Light Racing UCAs, ARB SS170HF Safari snorkel w/ Afrikaans centrifugal pre-cleaner, Tacoma antenna mod, TRD Supercharger w/ URD 7th inj. & URD pulleys, Anti-Dark engine bay lighting system. Having gone 250k, Aug 2016 was the time to replace the original clutch & get the driver's seat rebuilt/stuffed. Front & back Weathertech liners. Tundra front disc brake swap. Full length Rocky Mountain Rack with 40" lightbar & alternating strobe rear dust lights.
    I've seen the pix on Tacomaworld of which wire to remove from the harness connector. Since there is some differences between the years & models I didn't want to just try it. Is this the same as on a 2000 4R? Later on in that same thread, there was an idea of just pulling a wire from the heavy heatsink between the battery & fender under the hood. anyone have experience with either of these?


    disable drl.jpg
     
  2. Oct 7, 2015 at 9:43 PM
    #2
    Husky Driver

    Husky Driver [OP] Sitka's chauffeur

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    Vehicle:
    2k T4R3 SR5 Highlander Sport TRD
    Toytec Ultimate 3" lift susp w/ OME 891 rear coils, Bilstein 5100 shocks front & 5125 rear, ARB 'Roo Bar, Warn VR10k, 0.7, 2 & 11-meter 2 way radios, Nitrogen inflated 33" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2s, FlexFuel E-85 conversion, AFe lifetime filter, Savage Offroad rock sliders, Ryno All Terrain 4.5mm skid plates, Line-X coatings on the armor, LifetimeLED & Rigid Industries LED headlights, UltraGauge 1.2, T3q 4.10 eLocker with armor from LROR, AmsOil lubricants used throughout. CBI plate rear bumper with swingaway, SPC Light Racing UCAs, ARB SS170HF Safari snorkel w/ Afrikaans centrifugal pre-cleaner, Tacoma antenna mod, TRD Supercharger w/ URD 7th inj. & URD pulleys, Anti-Dark engine bay lighting system. Having gone 250k, Aug 2016 was the time to replace the original clutch & get the driver's seat rebuilt/stuffed. Front & back Weathertech liners. Tundra front disc brake swap. Full length Rocky Mountain Rack with 40" lightbar & alternating strobe rear dust lights.
    I got bored today after work & decided to give the 2nd option above a try because it was the easiest of the 2 options. I verified that what worked on the 2000 model year Tacoma with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE also works on the 4Runner with the 3.4L 5VZ-FE in it.

    As described in the tacomaworld post, here is the caged heatsink & the grey connector:

    [​IMG]

    Disconnect it & DRL is disabled without disabling anything else. The headlight/foglight controllers on the steering column work as you'd expect as well as the high-beam indicator. Hopefully lifetimeledlights.com will still honor their warranty, this was my 4th pair with the low beams fried.
     
  3. Oct 8, 2015 at 8:36 AM
    #3
    Bob

    Bob Member Staff Member

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    Pretty simple mod. Glad it worked the same as on the taco.

    Fourth pair though... Damn :eek:
     
  4. Oct 13, 2015 at 9:45 PM
    #4
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    When I installed my HIDs from retrofit...they stated I had to disable my DRL. Otherwise it would be very hard on the HID bulb...and could cause early failure. So, I did just as you did here...I too unplugged the connector. Piece of cake!! Now that you've disabled your DRL...I'm sure you'll quite eating LEDs.

    Speaking of...other than going through 4 pairs of lights...how do you like the LEDS for headlights? Are they bright? At least as bright as our low beams (which isn't saying much)?? Anything you like or dislike about them?? Just wondering how they worked in real life? Thank you Sir
     
  5. Oct 14, 2015 at 12:16 AM
    #5
    Husky Driver

    Husky Driver [OP] Sitka's chauffeur

    Joined:
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    Member:
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    Messages:
    60
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kipp
    40°35'09.0"N 105°04'38.3"W
    Vehicle:
    2k T4R3 SR5 Highlander Sport TRD
    Toytec Ultimate 3" lift susp w/ OME 891 rear coils, Bilstein 5100 shocks front & 5125 rear, ARB 'Roo Bar, Warn VR10k, 0.7, 2 & 11-meter 2 way radios, Nitrogen inflated 33" BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2s, FlexFuel E-85 conversion, AFe lifetime filter, Savage Offroad rock sliders, Ryno All Terrain 4.5mm skid plates, Line-X coatings on the armor, LifetimeLED & Rigid Industries LED headlights, UltraGauge 1.2, T3q 4.10 eLocker with armor from LROR, AmsOil lubricants used throughout. CBI plate rear bumper with swingaway, SPC Light Racing UCAs, ARB SS170HF Safari snorkel w/ Afrikaans centrifugal pre-cleaner, Tacoma antenna mod, TRD Supercharger w/ URD 7th inj. & URD pulleys, Anti-Dark engine bay lighting system. Having gone 250k, Aug 2016 was the time to replace the original clutch & get the driver's seat rebuilt/stuffed. Front & back Weathertech liners. Tundra front disc brake swap. Full length Rocky Mountain Rack with 40" lightbar & alternating strobe rear dust lights.
    I did my research & as far as LED cubes or light bars I went with Rigid Industries Duallys. I had thought about HIDs at 1st, but the Duallys were $15 a pair cheaper & have 2.5 x the operational lifetime. For H4 headlights though, the research lasted another couple of years until by accident I found Lifetime LED Lights. The difference between their H4 lights & Sylvania Silverstar line is nothing short of shocking as I found out tonight. I sent back my DRL damaged H4 LEDs & I'm running my last pair of Silverstar zXe. LED gives me my own 300' slice of daylight. The low (& even the highbeams) of the Halogen bulbs look merely ornamental, something to cover a DOT legal requirement & not much else. The color difference is pretty stark as well Halogen is at 4300K & LED is 6000K. Think tan Rx bottle color compared to a piece of copier/printer paper.

    A future upgrade is going to be a 30" dual row light bar that will sit just under the top cross bar of the fairing for my RTT. Because of how little use it will actually get I can't justify $1k for the RI light bar. I'll probably go with the LLEDL light bar. It's hard to go wrong with <30% of the RI price with a lifetime guarantee.

    Before I do that though I need to do an electrical system upgrade to at least a stage 2 but ideally to a stage 5 if I can figure where to put another battery at. Hopefully before Rock Therapy 2016 I can get that & one of these 50qt ARB fridge/freezers.

    #EAF :D
     
  6. Nov 15, 2015 at 7:02 AM
    #6
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    brb, going to do this
     
  7. Nov 15, 2015 at 7:05 AM
    #7
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    I have a guy that builds big three upgrades if you're interested...
     
  8. Nov 15, 2015 at 7:05 AM
    #8
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    in fact, there's a group buy that he might let you in on...:spy:
     
  9. Nov 15, 2015 at 7:05 AM
    #9
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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  10. Nov 15, 2015 at 1:25 PM
    #10
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    I'm Almost done with upgrading my "Big 3"! Although once I got started...I couldn't stop. Just ended up upgrading all my "charging and ground" wires. And now I think I'm going to just go ahead and add a second battery. Heck, I've already got $400+ into it so far.

    @ramonortiz55...you need to make the Yellow Top battery GB happen over on TW...especially if I'm going to need 2 more batteries!!
     
  11. Nov 15, 2015 at 4:03 PM
    #11
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    its gonna happen. my vendor is taking forever to get me my numbers
     
  12. Nov 15, 2015 at 7:18 PM
    #12
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    My only question @ramonortiz55...what do you do with the battery if it is defective during the 3 year warranty? Normally you take it back where you bought it? I don't want to have to ship an 50lb dead battery...that would be exspensive!

    So...How much are we looking at for a yellow top? Thanks
     
  13. Nov 15, 2015 at 8:35 PM
    #13
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    that's a good question...

    I don't have any numbers yet..ill post as soon as I get them
     
  14. Nov 15, 2015 at 9:35 PM
    #14
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    Thanks @ramonortiz55...appreciate it Sir!
     
  15. Nov 16, 2015 at 8:58 AM
    #15
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
  16. Nov 16, 2015 at 10:12 AM
    #16
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    What do you want pictures of :notsure:??
     
  17. Nov 16, 2015 at 10:23 AM
    #17
    Ol'Blue

    Ol'Blue Moderator Staff Member

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    A few things here and there. Still dreaming up stuff
    I'm confused, so now you have control of the DTRL?

    I was wanting to see how the lights now work.

    Blue
     
  18. Nov 16, 2015 at 11:36 AM
    #18
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    This is how I disconnected my DTRL's. I just unplugged this connector just like @Husky Driver did. Everything else continued to work as normal. The only thing that changes...is the DTRL's do not turn on! Your headlights come on as normal. They are not any brighter...or anything... they just work normally.
    Most guys want to disable their DTRL's because they have changed out the headlights one way or another. Either by installing HID's or a set of LED bulbs. If you've done either change...you have to turn the DTRL's power off otherwise that power will fry your new bulbs.


    So you really don't have "control" over the DTRL's...you just shut them off by disconnecting the plug...you permanently shut them off....the only way for them to come back on, you would have to re-connect that connector plug. Now if you are wanting to control the DTRL's and be able to turn them off and on from the driver's seat...you'd have to cut that plug off...run wires from the plug back into the cab and attach to a switch. I hope this help Sir.
     
  19. Nov 17, 2015 at 8:42 AM
    #19
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    i need me DTRL off to not blow my cover when im stalking people
     
  20. Nov 18, 2015 at 4:44 AM
    #20
    RussToy

    RussToy New Member

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    It's not working...cause I saw you yesterday...Right before our SSS meeting.
     
  21. Nov 19, 2015 at 12:52 PM
    #21
    ramonortiz55

    ramonortiz55 New Member

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    :spy:
     

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