Diode Dynamics SL2 9005 as auxiliary lighting - removing / replacing DRLs in 2022+ 5th gens

Edit, I have completed the project and slightly edited below posts from my original questions so as to make the entire thread more clear. Updated images and description are in post #6:

https://www.4runners.com/threads/di...cing-drls-in-2022-5th-gens.38127/#post-584986

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I searched for this but my search parameters were all over the place and I may have overlooked it.

This should apply to all 2022+ 4Runners regardless of trim.

These models have the LED high / low headlights contained in one unit, in the position that used to be just the low beam of the older 5th gens.

The housing that was formerly used in the older 5th gens as the high beam and DRL is now DRL only on the 2022+ models.

I have zero interest in using the DRLs, and in my prior 5th gen I modified the relay to turn them off permanently. On this model I deactivated my DRLs through the head unit option. Since those DRL bulbs will never be on, this essentially leaves a very prime lighting spot useless - the reflector is already focused to use this position as a high beam.

Since this housing is already rated to run a HB3 / 9005 halogen bulb at full intensity as a high beam, I see no reason that you couldn't just disconnect the factory wiring harness at the bulb, seal it and leave it dangling; install a high output LED bulb in the socket; then build or buy a relay harness with a 9005 connector on the end, wire it to a switch, and then run those as auxiliary lighting. LED bulbs would color match to the factory LED headlights and would have a pretty stout light output.

I'm thinking as one example the Sylvania 9005 LEDs, which can be clocked to orient them correctly and are quite bright and seem reliable:

https://www.sylvania-automotive.com...g-and-powersports-bulb-2-pack/9005SL.BX2.html

I plan on doing this soon but I thought I'd see if this is already a "mod" and I overlooked it.

I'll update the thread as I build it, assuming it's not already a thing....?

This is an image of a Morimoto light that I stole of the web; the high beam location circled in red is what I am referring to swapping out:

 

Thoughts on changing out your DRL to DD 9005?

My 2022 T4R | Toyota 4Runner Forum [4Runners.com]

 

I see your post in there about the DRL, and it's close, but not exactly what I'm wanting to do. It appears you made, essentially, a jumper just to use the DRLs in series with an LED bulb?

I don't care about the DRL - I'm completely doing away with the DRL and just using the existing light housing and socket, which would necessitate an entirely new wiring harness. In this way those lights could be run independently of the lows, highs, fogs, etc; and at full power with purpose to use them as auxiliary offroad lighting.

 

Correct, several options for the wiring harness to close the series for the LED bulb. I wanted an option to match the LED low beams, but not be too bright where everyone flashed me for looking like high beams. Good luck and let us know what you go with.

 

I ordered some stuff today to facilitate this project.

Diode Dynamics light harness with 9005 connectors (part #DD4112, which is marketed for 9006 bulbs but should work on 9005 as well):

https://www.diodedynamics.com/add-on-foglight-wiring-harness.html

Diode Dynamics SL2 9005 LED bulbs (part #DD0463P), instead of the Sylvania ones I referenced above. I figured for $40 more I would just use an established US small business, plus DD has a lifetime warranty and not 5 years like Sylvania:

https://www.diodedynamics.com/9005-sl2-led-bulbs-pair.html

Air On Board rocker switch (part #TR9BLANKBA2). Make sure you don't buy the 'momentary' model, you need the 'on-off-on' rocker style:

https://www.aironboard.com/online/p...ker-switch-dual-led-blue-amber-on-off-on.html

And you will also need an add-a-circuit or whatever your preference is for powering the switch and triggering the light harness relay to activate. I generally use a mini fuse add-a-circuit as this works fine with our low profile mini fuses and gives your fingers some extra purchase on the fuse to pull it out. You cannot reuse the fuse box cover if you go this route:

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p...rbj7eCnMPyo-ERqW-li8wzN8KzpCZhHhOoa2F0SStTh7c

Total cost of above components was about $220 shipped, so this should give decent off road light output in a stealth package and at a lower price point than many of the cheaper LED pod or bar offerings.

Will update with details and pics as I complete the project.

 

I installed the above linked components.

To recap, you will need the harness, LED bulbs, a switch, and an add-a-circuit.

Remove the factory HB3 bulbs by twisting 1/3 turn and pulling out. I left the factory wiring just dangling; I didn't even seal it up.

Install the LED bulbs by reversing the above process. Make sure the bulbs are clocked correctly once they are in the housing and also make sure you are installing them with all three flanges engaging the socket. A common issue on these style lights is installing the bulb crooked and one flange not engaging.

Lay the harness out over the engine bay and orient it so the relay is closest to the battery and the longer of the two outputs to the LED bulbs is going toward the passenger side. Make temporary connections first to test everything. Install the relay to your choice of locations (I used the top of the secondary fusebox) and route the wiring. One leg goes to passenger side LED, one leg goes to driver LED, the positive and negative battery connections go to those battery posts, the trigger to turn the lights off is unused, and the trigger to turn the lights on is routed through the firewall at the main wiring harness grommet. In order to route the passenger side leg to the LED I removed the top of the radiator cover - that black piece of plastic held on with push pins - and ran the wiring under it: through the driver's side headlight assembly mounting area, in front of the radiator, through the passenger side headlight assembly mounting area, and secured it to the existing wiring in front of the hood latch with a zip tie. This keeps it from flopping, rubbing on metal, and away from the top of the radiator which generates a lot of heat.

Install your choice of interior switch and connect it accordingly. For this AOB switch I didn't use some of the outputs or backlighting so in my case I connected switch red to my add a circuit (see below), switch orange to the above noted trigger to turn the lights on, and switch black to ground. A good ground for switches is right by the fusebox - the silver 10mm bolt that secures the fusebox to the dash subframe. This bolt is quite prominent and is backed by a blue piece of plastic and is visible in the fusebox image below. If you don't want the switch to illuminate when turned on, or if you are using a switch that doesn't have that option, like a basic toggle switch, don't connect the switch to ground - only use the power input and trigger connections.

Install your add-a-circuit with a 3A or similar fuse. The trigger should only draw like 100mA. If you want to run the lights off battery, use the position pictured below on the left side of the fusebox as this unused fuse location is always powered. If you want the run the lights off ignition, as I did, use the fuse location pictured below on the right side of the fusebox (7.5a accessory). Orient your add-a-circuits as I have since this is the correct orientation which doesn't allow backfeeding through the secondary circuit.

A few other thoughts:

The Diode Dynamics stuff seems well made and well thought out. The harness has an integral, potted aluminum relay and the wiring is all sheathed with cut resistant material. It's long enough to install without having to add wiring. The LEDs feel like quality and install solidly in the headlight sockets with good gaskets and flexible wiring.

The Air On Board switch drops perfectly into the existing 4R dashboard switch hole after the blank plate is removed. It is a rocker style and not the more common push-on-push off, and has a good feel and pleasing 'click'. This is a three position rocker so the top position is on, middle is off, and then bottom position would power another device (while simultaneously turning off the top position). I did not use the bottom position so essentially my setup is on-off-off. I wish AOB offered this with a latching position on top and a momentary position on the bottom because then you could have the option of using the lights as a flash to pass.

I did move the front camera switch to the right one position so as to put the LED switch in the farthest left slot to make that easier to find quickly. If you move the camera switch you have to dremel a flange off the side of the switch to get it to fit on the next slot over. I briefly considered just throwing it away and installing another AOB switch for some other project since the camera is total garbage, but ultimately I decided to keep it.

From what I see on this forum, some guys are trying to use the factory wiring to run LEDs, and this causes issues with the DRLs since they run in series at half power which isn't really conducive to using LEDs. This also causes the LEDs not to stay on with the fogs or the high beams. Using a separate harness eliminates any half power or flickering issues, and allows the use of multiple lights at the same time, which is why I wanted to do this - to have a stealth LED setup which could be used in addition to the factory high beams or fogs.

Overall I think this was a worthwhile modification. I was hoping for a bit more light output if I'm being honest, but this is still better than the factory lights and more light, even just a little more light, is always better. The best pattern and throw IMO is low beam headlights, fogs, and the SL2 LEDs; this gives a good side output with a long throw.

Pics:

OEM HB3 on left, Diode Dynamics SL2 on right (the LED is clocked incorrectly in this image and had to be rotated 1/4 turn after install):



SL2 installed in the headlight housing, passenger side, front (shown clocked correctly with LEDs to the side):



SL2 installed, passenger side, viewed from back:



Relay and wiring:





Trigger wire going into firewall, viewed from outside:



Trigger wire coming in through firewall, viewed from inside:



Factory 7.5A fuse to bottom right is ignition controlled, and I tapped it with a 3A add-a-circuit to power the switch and activate the light relay (other fuse tap on left is for an unrelated project):



AoB switch, bottom left:



Finished product. Note how "dim" the fogs are in relation to the SL2s:





Headlights only:



High beam headlights only:



High beam headlights and SL2 LEDs:



SL2 LEDs only (all other lights off):

 

Fantastic light output. Love that it runs of a different harness altogether.

 

Good mod. @mynameistory (I think?) confirmed the DRL only reflector is different than the combined high beam/DRL reflector though. Shouldn’t really matter since high beams are used in situations where it doesn’t affect other drivers

 

Thanks for doing this. Good info. Would be interesting to experiment with some other plug and play LEDs in addition to DD. They’re all a little different and will bounce off the housing differently.

 

Indeed.

Some LEDs, including the Sylvanias I linked in post 1 and the DD I ended up getting, are clockable. The Sylvanias use an allen set screw to allow the bulb to rotate on its mount, and the DD have a pretty trick tool-less system. I just installed them as they are intended, with the LEDs facing the sides; but I guess a guy could play around with spinning the bulb inside the housing to test output.

 

Looks great and appears to be a huge upgrade in light output. Not sure if you are the first to do this mod, but it is the first time I have seen it. Great work!

 

Thanks man! Before I edited the first post and the title, the thread was a question... "has anyone done this, point me to it". No affirmative replies.

So hopefully it's useful to someone.