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Climate control knob issue and AC

Discussion in '3rd Gen 4Runners (1996-2002)' started by shoboat90, Sep 14, 2021 at 11:01 AM.

  1. Sep 14, 2021 at 11:01 AM
    #1
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    Hi all
    First post here as I just took receipt of a 99 SR5 2wd 6cyl. Having an issue with temperature knob (blue to red) subsequently impacting the AC. Anyhow, the knob won't go all the way to blue or to the left, it stops at about 11oclock which impacts the AC temp, or lack thereof. Any thoughts on where to look or what the issue could be would be much appreciated.
    Thanks in advance

    65315738251__057C37C0-4886-44C5-946A-7EC60784667A.jpg
     
  2. Sep 14, 2021 at 12:09 PM
    #2
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    IIRC, for what it's worth, all that knob does is set the hot water control valve position, with a solid core cable. The valve on the firewall, that lets more or less water into the heater core inside the truck. If it won't go all the way to cold, either the cable is jammed up someplace, or the valve isn't aligned correctly. You can look at where the cable attaches to the valve, and, while someone turns the knob slowly from one extreme to the other, watch what the valve's control does. It's supposed to move from full on to full off, but no more.

    There's a procedure on how to set the cable on the valve in the FSM. I can put the procedure up for you, if you like.
    You should also check it's attachment to the knob, and it's routing out to the valve. The trouble could be at either end, or somewhere in the routing.

    Good luck!
    Pat☺
     
  3. Sep 14, 2021 at 12:23 PM
    #3
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    Hello there...thanks so much for the quick reply. So I have the dash apart to gain access to the control knob. In looking underneath the controller, I can see the cable you're speaking of and as I turn the knob to the left...you can tell the cable just does not want to 'go' anymore. It's attachment to the knob looks solid. I guess I'll wait for someone else to turn the knob while I'm looking at the valve on the firewall. Sorry if this is a dumb question, but is the valve on the inside or outside (engine bay) of the firewall. I'd love the procedure from the FSM if you don't mind.
    Thanks!!
     
  4. Sep 14, 2021 at 1:13 PM
    #4
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    another piece of info that can prove valuable is that the prior owner said the knob used to go all the way left and AC worked fine up until 2 months ago when someone broke in and tried to steal the stereo. Based on what I'm seeing, I don't see how it relates because the cable and it's attachment to the knob are intact and cable does not seem to be bound up....I've yet to take a look at the valve yet though while turning the knob. Lastly, one final piece....the AC button remains pushed in and the green light on. I took that apart and quite can't figure out how the button is supposed to go on/off without it staying in the on, or in position?
     
  5. Sep 14, 2021 at 2:02 PM
    #5
    Trekker

    Trekker Regular Member

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    TF, people are still stealing car stereos in 2021. Hope the owner had the face plate detached when it happened.

    The AC button is on when the button is pushed flush in and off when its out. I would check that your control cables are working, sounds like the thief broke the climate control when they were going at the stereo. Did you pull the knobs off to make sure something wasn't physically jammed it. The cables run to the passenger side of the dash I believe, make sure they aren't twisted up.

    edit: Looks like you already did that, I would inspect the valve then
     
  6. Sep 14, 2021 at 2:11 PM
    #6
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    Yeah, the cable running from the hot/cold knob to the valve Phantom Tweak had mentioned seems fine...it's not bound or tweaked in any way. That said, I've yet to run the test he recommended to ensure the cable is working the valve correctly. In regards to the AC button. The button itself is broken because it's just flush all the time...pressing it does nothing. My assumption is that's not the problem as the green light on the ac button was illuminated so I assumed that means it's engaged...is that the case?

    IMG_4714.jpg
     
  7. Sep 14, 2021 at 4:37 PM
    #7
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    So the cable indexes the valve just fine. I tried to move the valve manually but it seems as though its at a full stop already in it's current location when the knob is turned as far as it will go to the left.
     
  8. Sep 14, 2021 at 6:42 PM
    #8
    Trekker

    Trekker Regular Member

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    I'm not sure whether button position or LED is the true indicator of the AC being on. Doesn't really matter in the end, if the button turns the AC on and off then its probably not the most pressing :D issue. You could always get one from a scrap yard if you think it need a new one.
     
  9. Sep 14, 2021 at 6:56 PM
    #9
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    Well I honestly can't tell if the AC is actually On/Off...just assumed it was On because the light was illuminated and it wasn't cold due to the location of the temperature controller. Found a button at a scrap yard down the road and I'll try that out....I have a feeling I have bigger issues though :( The previous owner insists it worked prior to the attempt at trying to steal the radio, etc....however what I'm seeing with the dash apart, etc...doesn't seem to make sense. Thank you
     
  10. Sep 15, 2021 at 12:46 PM
    #10
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    ScreenHunter_2996 Sep. 15 12.26.jpg

    Here's the cable adjustment procedure. Complex as heck, isn't it?

    If I were you, I would follow the cable from where it's connected to the knob, to where it goes through the firewall, and then in the engine compartment, to the valve. I suspect the crook that tried for your radio may have damaged, or maybe pushed into the wrong position, the cable somewhere along it's length. If he pushed it up out of the way, for example, and now it's routing is not correct, or it has a bend in it, it could cause the trouble you're seeing. That's the trouble with a solid core cable, if it get's bent along it's length someplace it's no longer the correct length, for the routing it should be in.
    Maybe it got pulled out of the outer clamp at one end? Or partly pulled, anyway.
    Does that make sense? Esentaly, since the part that actually moves, and does the work, is solid, if it gets bent, it can't recover, like a cable with a core of really small, twisted wires in it can. Like the throttle cable, for example. It only pulls, so they can use the regular, twisted core kind, and if you bend it, it just returns to what it was.

    Hope this is all some help...
    Pat☺
     
  11. Sep 15, 2021 at 1:22 PM
    #11
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    Well, I'm clearly doing something wrong because I was pretty sure that the cable in question that is currently connected to the knob in question passes to the right behind the glove box and then down along towards the inside of the firewall and then connects to something on the inside of the vehicle. When I rotate the knob, whatever the cable is connected to on the other side moves as well.
    So you're saying that cable should pass through the firewall into the engine bay and connect there?
     
  12. Sep 15, 2021 at 1:25 PM
    #12
    shoboat90

    shoboat90 [OP] New Member

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    I don't understand the diagram. What is the temperature control door? Is that referring to the valve the cable is controlling or the temperature control knob on the dash?
     

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