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Clack noise from front end suspension and steering wheel vibration

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by Casawazzah, Jun 9, 2019.

  1. Jun 9, 2019 at 2:12 PM
    #1
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    Hi
    I just bought a 91 diesel model and have replaced the following

    inner and outer wheel bearings on both sides

    stabalizer on right side from driver

    Inner and outer tie rods on right side

    HOWEVER, im still getting the dreaded 'clack' noise on a full lock (sometimes, not always) and still have some steering wheel wobble starting at around 70kmh

    What's the best advice about what is most likely to be the cause? I guess we're only left with ball joints which i know are a bit knackered on the right side (but does that really cause either of the above). Or,CV joints, but i thought if the drive shafts are disengaged ie 2WD then these shouldn't be under any strain, right?

    many thanks for those who are able to share their experiences

    MJ in Casablanca
     
  2. Jun 9, 2019 at 2:45 PM
    #2
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug New Member

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    Welcome to the forum, and i would say ball joints.
     
    Casawazzah [OP] and Bob like this.
  3. Jun 10, 2019 at 4:38 PM
    #3
    4scooter19

    4scooter19 New Member

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    Unless you have manual hubs your half shafts are always turning. I noticed my bad one at lower speeds especially full lock usually pulling in and out of parking spaces.
     
  4. Jun 30, 2019 at 4:48 AM
    #4
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    hi
    thanks for your patience and advice so far about my clack-clack-clack noise from my passenger side steering hub when i do a full left lock. it seems that the ball joints aren't as bad as i thought but i have discovered that the other side's inner and outer tie rod has a little play in it, which i will fix soon. But a mechanic here reckons that it's the CV (outer?) joint as he points to the hub itself and makes gestures as to suggest that it is this.

    There are two issues here which im trying to conquer. I STILL have steering wheel wobble at 55mph on what you guys would call the 'freeway' which i reallly want to nail. Probably doing the wheel balancing will help. But the clacking noise also should be nailed as it really doesn't sound healthy, like something 's going to break at some point.

    Looking at Amazon it seems that the entire drive shaft complete with CV joints comes as one unit for almost 400 bucks. Please let me know though if the outer CV joint assembly can be bought seperatly. I would especially apreciate a photo link if you could, so i can actually see the part as im going to go to a toyota parts shop where language willl be a problem.

    thanks once again

    MJ in casa
     
  5. Jun 30, 2019 at 7:23 AM
    #5
    4scooter19

    4scooter19 New Member

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  6. Jul 1, 2019 at 10:08 AM
    #6
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    so, is it this one? I htought the hub to the right, which is attached to the wheel itself, is the 'outer CV joint' no?

    665009-FRO__ra_p.jpg
     
  7. Jul 1, 2019 at 11:13 AM
    #7
    4scooter19

    4scooter19 New Member

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    I'm not exactly sure if I follow what you're saying. The splined end (left side of the photo the posted) goes into your hub. The end with the bolt holes goes to your front diff. The outer joint would be the first joint from the left I believe.
     
  8. Jul 1, 2019 at 11:27 AM
    #8
    4scooter19

    4scooter19 New Member

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    I would replace the entire CV and not just the outer joints. They're pretty cheap and a lot have lifetime warranties. I've never rebuilt them so I don't have experience with it but for peace of mind I would swap the whole half shaft.
     
    Benny123 likes this.
  9. Jul 1, 2019 at 11:43 AM
    #9
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    Normally i would agree. But you can't find the part here in Morocco so we have to be realistic with costs. That's why im trying to find/buy just the side which connects to the wheel as this is where the noise is coming from.
     
  10. Jul 1, 2019 at 11:44 AM
    #10
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    well, i learnt something, as if i had to guess, i would have gone for the other way round. thanks for that. Appreciated.
     
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  11. Jul 1, 2019 at 5:56 PM
    #11
    4scooter19

    4scooter19 New Member

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    Is ordering through Amazon an option or is shipping expensive? Sorry may be a stupid question just curious how international shipping with Amazon works.
     
  12. Jul 1, 2019 at 7:05 PM
    #12
    Dezman92

    Dezman92 New Member

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    Did you check your steering stops? They are well known for the plastic covers breaking off and having the metal heads hit the knuckle while in full lock. They make a god awful noise when they hit.
     
  13. Jul 2, 2019 at 5:57 AM
    #13
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    im not sure what you mean about stops? Can you elaborate?
     
  14. Jul 2, 2019 at 5:58 AM
    #14
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    A lot of Amazon goods wont go to Morocco for some reason. But it's feasable. thanks for your input.
     
  15. Jul 2, 2019 at 8:45 AM
    #15
    4scooter19

    4scooter19 New Member

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    Steering_Stop_Installed.jpg steering stops are in the bottom left of the photo. The rubber caps
     
  16. Jul 2, 2019 at 8:48 AM
    #16
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    That's very useful. Mine I'm sure are missing but tell me, if they are missing does the clack clack clack noise happen on full lock?
     
  17. Jul 2, 2019 at 1:07 PM
    #17
    Dezman92

    Dezman92 New Member

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    Yes those will make a noise at full lock. I would put grease on them and see if the noise goes away.
     
  18. Jul 7, 2019 at 2:21 AM
    #18
    Casawazzah

    Casawazzah [OP] New Member

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    i think that nailed it. Can't quite see how the stop, which was a little worn, could make so much noise but im grateful to you and your advice.

    MJ
     
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  19. Jul 7, 2019 at 11:26 PM
    #19
    Dezman92

    Dezman92 New Member

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    Glad I can help.
     
  20. Oct 1, 2019 at 9:59 PM
    #20
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

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    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    Hay Martin,
    Keep in mind at this late great date in the history of these vehicles that the lower bushing in the idler arm is disintegrated if it is the original OEM unit and if and when it has fallen apart the idler arm shaft will smack against the inside of the casting that is bolted to the frame and that makes a very distinct clunk when the suspension hits an irregularity in the pavement like a driveway entrance. With the bushing completely shot or powdered into oblivion the shaft can wave about inside the housing and this will alter the toe set and make the steering input feel a bit disconnected and or more prone to wander some with camber in a road bed.
    FYI, I just replaced mine two weeks ago and the lower bushing was in many pieces and the tapered shaft at the arms end was loose in the forged arm so it was a goner.
     

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