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Changing your own oil

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010-2024)' started by PCRIDE4RUNNER, Apr 16, 2024.

  1. May 15, 2024 at 3:27 AM
    #91
    Guppy1301

    Guppy1301 New Member

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    Got my 2019 that was a lease turn in with 23k. I'm at 100K. I'm a little sooner than @Static03 on the diff oil changes but like him do all my own work. Surprisingly the brakes that were on the 4Runner when I bought it are just under 1/2 material left. Lots of highway miles! Plus I'm a big believer in not riding the brakes. Need to get 250K like him before I buy another.
     
    TrailSpecial22 likes this.
  2. May 15, 2024 at 3:35 AM
    #92
    jharkin

    jharkin New Member

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    Same here. I always have to use the 1/2 drive breaker bar to get it off.. one of the few things I use that for!!!
     
  3. May 15, 2024 at 3:38 AM
    #93
    Static03

    Static03 New Member

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    When I bought it, time wasn't on my side. I had a 2018 Silverado that ended up dropping a lifter. Of course out of warranty. Once I got the truck back it never ran right. Had intermittent misfires that not I nor the dealer could seem to correct. Seemed like my truck was built on a Friday afternoon before someone's vacation. I needed something reliable so I went looking for a 4runner. Wanted 4wd which was very hard to find in FL. Thus the prior rental became the only option.
     
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  4. May 15, 2024 at 8:08 AM
    #94
    backpacker

    backpacker New Member

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    Falken Wildpeak 265/70R/17 load E
    Another possibility is that normal oil pressure squeezes the o-ring more tightly into place, increasing the torque required to undo.
     
  5. May 15, 2024 at 8:12 AM
    #95
    Spare Parts

    Spare Parts New Member

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    Could the oil cause the O-ring swell?
     
    java likes this.
  6. May 15, 2024 at 8:21 AM
    #96
    Static03

    Static03 New Member

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    I use a torque wrench to tighten down my oil filter and drain cap to factory spec. Next oil change I will use it to take them off and see if the values are the same or if it is indeed tighter.
     
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  7. May 15, 2024 at 8:22 AM
    #97
    TrailSpecial22

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    what are you torquing it down to?
     
  8. May 15, 2024 at 10:13 AM
    #98
    H1M72

    H1M72 New Member

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    For all those who were wondering Toyota genuine motor oil is actual made by Exxon/Mobil
     
  9. May 15, 2024 at 12:35 PM
    #99
    RUNNER4DAN

    RUNNER4DAN New Member

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    Northern NY State, almost Canada eh?
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    Doesn't need any
    Perhaps pressure is the culprit? Does the housing have a non-return check valve?

    I forget what it was I worked on recently but it required pressure to be released before the component could be removed.
     
  10. May 15, 2024 at 12:39 PM
    #100
    backpacker

    backpacker New Member

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    Well, presumably removing the filler cap, removing the oil pan drain plug, draining the oil from the pan, then removing the bottom cap from the filter housing and draining the filter would relieve the pressure.
     
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  11. May 15, 2024 at 1:02 PM
    #101
    Spare Parts

    Spare Parts New Member

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    I’ve had all 3 open and still had to muscle the filter housing off.
     
  12. May 15, 2024 at 1:07 PM
    #102
    RUNNER4DAN

    RUNNER4DAN New Member

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    Northern NY State, almost Canada eh?
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    Doesn't need any
    It was the bottom cap on the filter housing I was concerned with. If there was a non return check valve in the oil filter circuit, none of the other caps/plugs would relieve pressure.
     
  13. May 15, 2024 at 1:18 PM
    #103
    backpacker

    backpacker New Member

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    Yeah, the bottom cap always comes off with about the same torque used to install it, and the filter housing drains normally. After that, the o-ring and threads should be the only things in play. I think the o-ring just gets firmly lodged by the oil pressure in normal use, perhaps abetted by any swelling. I'm a tad skeptical of the latter, since I'd expect it to be fairly impermeable.
     
    Spare Parts likes this.

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