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Can you convert fan to electric

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by DamnClamper711, Jul 26, 2017.

  1. Jul 26, 2017 at 6:10 PM
    #1
    DamnClamper711

    DamnClamper711 [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2017
    Member:
    #4461
    Messages:
    1
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Allen
    Vehicle:
    1990 4runner 3.0v6
    Just bought a 90 3.0v6 4runner with blown head gasket was wondering if i can convert it to electric radiator fans and if so how hard is it. I have it all apart and was wondering about any tips or tricks that i can do while its torn down. This is my first toyota.
     
  2. May 28, 2018 at 2:04 AM
    #2
    chicken

    chicken New Member

    Joined:
    May 28, 2018
    Member:
    #6115
    Messages:
    26
    I did it and it was nice till it got hot out.
    you need a electric fan from a OEM junkyard car thats around 2000 cfm's
    if you can get a radiator and fan/fans set off a junkyard car that can be fitted in the 4runner
    that was cooling a big car/engine - that would be best. possible newer 4runner or Toyota truck.
    my fan did not cool the truck down enough, I think it was over rated on the CFM's.
    it was 14" I think rated at 1700 CFM's, you need a good sealing shroud to keep the air from escaping/going around.
    I think a 17" fan might fit, get a relay off eBay under 10.00 and a temp sensor and wires sized to amp draw
    of fan. get the biggest most CFM fan you can that will fit, they will have the highest amp draw.
    don't believe the CFM ratings of aftermarket fans.
    the engine/cab will be lots quieter .
     
  3. Jan 11, 2019 at 7:44 AM
    #3
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2018
    Member:
    #6296
    Messages:
    233
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    3VZ-E modification:
    I have built a cooling shroud made from aluminum channel, aluminum angle with a sheet of aluminum to cover with a 15-1/2" diameter hole in its middle. This shroud design is a rectangular box that is 3/4" thick off the back side of the radiators flange where the OEM shroud would normally attach. So there is about 1.00" or so of space between the back side of the core and the inside surface of the shroud. I used most of a tube of grey high temp gasket maker to join and seal the aluminum frame to the radiator. The sheet panel is screwed through the frame and into the radiator with six M5 flat head machine screws and the radiator flange is drilled and tapped to receive these screws. The radiator is an all aluminum G-PLUS, eBay unit from China and cost $117 but it has a nice heavy gauge flange that will take the M5 thread. It is a two row core that is 2-5/16" thick from flange to flange. Located at the middle of the shrouds sheet metal cover is a single 16" diameter Zirgo (ZIRZFBC16S) rated for 3000 CFM with the "S" blades. The "S" blades are important as the fan is quieter and will move more CFM given the same fan with straight blades and motor current draw. The custom made fan/shroud fits and misses the end of the 3VZ fan bracket shaft as the fan is 3-1/2" thick from its face to the top of the electric motor housing. By centering this fan at the middle of the radiator-width, it offsets the Zirgo's electric motor housing from the 3VZ fan brackets shaft and allows the engine and fan to not hit each other when the engine moves from drive torque or josseling when driving off-road. To control and power its operation I used a Deral relay kit with 180°F thermal switch. The thermal switch uses a #6-32 thread and is screwed into a 90° brass elbow used to make the drain cock head downwards. The Deral relay has two switching leads on the coil of the relay. The yellow one goes through the thermal switch to an accessory hot powered connection and the other to the AC which is green and has a diode in it to stop your accessory powered on wire from turning on your AC when you don't want it on. With the thermal switch and power leads to the fan headed off of the radiator on the battery side it makes for a clean wiring job.20190111_074215.jpg
     
    rhinolined and Snickel Fritz like this.
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