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Anyone do anything with brakes?...

Discussion in 'General 4Runner Talk' started by Run4it, May 1, 2021.

  1. May 1, 2021 at 8:15 PM
    #1
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    Like at least paint the calipers. Caliper/rotor upgrade?
    Can we swap rear crumbs for disks, Gen 5?
     
  2. May 1, 2021 at 8:37 PM
    #2
    Trail Runnah

    Trail Runnah New Member

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    Gen 5's are already rear disks.
     
    Thatbassguy, Mtbpsych and Run4it [OP] like this.
  3. May 1, 2021 at 8:54 PM
    #3
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    Boy am I twisted around these days.
     
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  4. May 1, 2021 at 8:56 PM
    #4
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    But I’m very glad to hear that, rear calipers.
     
  5. May 1, 2021 at 9:37 PM
    #5
    SR5 Limited

    SR5 Limited New Member

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    Take’em apart and powder coat. There is just an “O” ring to remove. Well don’t quote me on that. Not sure bout the newer ones.....
     
    Run4it [OP] likes this.
  6. May 1, 2021 at 10:59 PM
    #6
    ruiz4251

    ruiz4251 "but it was funny huh?"

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    I'm at 67k with OE rotors n second set of pads
    The only added weight since second pads are full skids steel front cbi
    aluminum mid and fuel
    Steel dif
    I've learned to ease the brakes to a stop
    That's said I have a full set of new powerstop rotors F/R and new pads
    It's about time for new stopping power
     
  7. May 2, 2021 at 2:23 PM
    #7
    Trail Runnah

    Trail Runnah New Member

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    2021 Tacoma still has rear drums, so you weren't that far off, haha.
     
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  8. May 2, 2021 at 2:29 PM
    #8
    Charlievee

    Charlievee New Member

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    1st thing to do is bleed them. I was amazed how much factory air was in the line.
     
    Toy4X4 and Run4it [OP] like this.
  9. May 2, 2021 at 2:39 PM
    #9
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    Good idea, they do work well. Mine are brand new so I better get ‘em while the getting is good.
     
  10. May 3, 2021 at 11:59 AM
    #10
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    Don't forget to include the LPSV in the bleed sequence.

    I am presuming your truck has one, anyway. I'm not all that hep to the new vehicles. Pre-2000, yeah, but not much after.

    Good luck to you!
    Pat☺
     
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  11. May 3, 2021 at 1:47 PM
    #11
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    I’ve been trying look up LSVP, I found guys talking about it and they don’t call it LPSV but whatever, I’m trying to understand what LPSV or LSVP stands for but I still don’t know, never heard of this before. Can you help? Thank You!
     
  12. May 3, 2021 at 8:00 PM
    #12
    Killafinn

    Killafinn New Member

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    I did brakes, 100k had all aftermarket parts and bad pulsation. Removed everything, painted calipers with POR 15 caliper paint. Got the brush on stuff, cleaned calipers with wire brush and put 2 coats on. Came out great, looks like powder coating. Replaced front and rear hoses with stoptech steal braided lines, and rear axle hoses with extended steal braided lines from Toytech. Used Power Stop drilled and slotted rotors with factory pads and all factory hardware. I tried to power bleed the brakes when done, but didn't work so well. The ABS will actually bleed each line for you, turn key on have someone step on brakes and open bleeder and ABS will push fluid through. Came out great, high hard brake pedal, no noise, no pulsation!20210313_110433.jpg 20210313_110027.jpg
     
    Last edited: May 3, 2021
  13. May 3, 2021 at 9:09 PM
    #13
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    Oh thank you for your input. Very well done. I will save this post of yours. Thanks again!!
     
  14. May 4, 2021 at 1:53 AM
    #14
    Charlievee

    Charlievee New Member

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    Did you replace the plastic brake lines or just the rubber?
     
  15. May 4, 2021 at 3:04 AM
    #15
    diverdon

    diverdon New Member

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    Damn those look great
     
  16. May 4, 2021 at 11:00 AM
    #16
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    I apologize. My amazing typing skills have struck again. It should be LSPV. Load Sensing Proportioning Valve. It senses the load on the rear suspension by the height it sits. As it sits lower, the load is greater. The valve then allows the rear brakes to brake more in proportion to the front.

    It's a small valve assembly mounted on the rear frame, above the rear axle. There is a small bar , or really thick, solid wire if you prefer, that runs down to the rear axle. As the load in the back is increased the truck sits lower towards the rear axle, the bar lifts up, and opens the valve more. More fluid is allowed to the rear brakes when the pedal is pressed. Thus, increasing the rear brakes braking pressure, relative to the front.

    It's like a motorcycle. If there's a rider on the back, the driver needs to depress the rear brake pedal more before he starts on the front brakes. I used to ride a lot, that's just my way of thinking of it.

    Did Toyota do away with the LSPV? I don't know, and if they DID, I have no idea what year they did.
    It was part-n-parcel of the brake bleeding procedure. It was bled out, just like a wheel's method, after all 4 wheels.

    Does this help at all?
    Pat☺
     
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  17. May 4, 2021 at 4:15 PM
    #17
    Killafinn

    Killafinn New Member

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    Charlievee: There are no plastic brake lines, only rubber hoses(that I changed to steel braided) and metal brake lines. I have never herd of plastic brake lines, if they do use plastic for brake lines its not in the US.

    PhantomTweak: Im not sure about older 4runners but my 2015 does not have a LSPV(load valve) on the rear axle. I have seen and dealt with them before, usually on pick up trucks with rear drum brakes.
     
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  18. May 6, 2021 at 9:34 AM
    #18
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    So if I go and bleed brakes I have to locate that valve, if still there, and there is a bleed screw for that too?
     
  19. May 6, 2021 at 9:50 AM
    #19
    Run4it

    Run4it [OP] New Member

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    I forgot all about this. After phantom tweak reply days ago I went a looking. Found this thread, here are few comments. “My latest thought is to:
    Guy #1: Lower the LSPV mounting on the frame as low as it will go, right now it's as high as it will go.
    I surmise the LSPV setting is too high and this is not allowing fluid to the front brakes.
    Make sense?”

    Guy #2 : “That's not your problem. The LSPV doesn't control front brake pressure, just rear brake engagement time and pressure.
    Once you have the brakes bled/sorted out you want to start with the valve as high as it will go and see how your rear brakes feel. You may need to adjust it down some, every truck is different. But starting at the very bottom will probably cause early rear brake engagement.

    I've done many of the frame replacements under recall, so I've had plenty of experience bleeding these brake systems from scratch.

    Gravity bleeding is your friend when you replace brake parts. Especially long lines. You can also give the brake pedal a few pumps before you open the system to help force fluid through. And while you're at it, it's a great idea to flush the brake system at the same time. You're already doing half the work anyways. On an old truck it's a good idea to go back in a month or so and reflush, to get rid of more of the crap in the system.

    If you're still getting air through the LSPV, you probably have a leak.
    If you're getting air through a bleeder and can't get rid of the air, you have a leak. It doesn't matter what order you bleed them or if the lines are hooked up wrong. If everything is tight you WILL eventually get everything bled. Your brakes may not work right [if you have the lines hooked up wrong], but you should still be able to bleed them.

    Bleeding in the wrong order will only slow you down, it won't stop you from bleeding the brakes. Don't get me wrong, you should do it in the correct order, and it will get done faster, but it's not 100% necessary to get the job done.

    If you're not getting any fluid out of the calipers you may have clogged up bleeder screws. If that's the case you may get lucky by just removing them and cleaning out the port [replace with new ones if you can find them]. Otherwise you'll have to replace your calipers.

    You also may have a bad master cylinder. They tend to go when the system is drained and someone bottoms out the cylinder pumping the pedal on an old system.”

    In this link.... https://www.toyotanation.com/threads/lspv-bleeding.395703/
     
  20. May 6, 2021 at 11:48 AM
    #20
    PhantomTweak

    PhantomTweak New Member

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    None. Bone Stock. EXCEPT: Brushguard, tow hitch, both welded to the frame. It's good to have friends and a fully equipped garage!
    Yes. It has a bleed valve and fitting, just like the rest of the system. Bleed it the same as any of the brakes.

    I have never used the gravity bleed system. I always have my lovely wife helping. We get all set up, I'm at whichever brake is next, hook up the tube into the small jar with fluid in it. I crack open the valve, yell for my wife to push down on the pedal. Once she bottoms it out, she yells at me, I close the valve, and she releases the pedal. Repeat until there's no more air, and the fluid coming out is nice and clean. Refill the reservoir, and move on to the next brake in the order.
    If we need to bleed too much out of any one brake, I refill the reservoir before we get done with one brake. Do NOT let the reservoir run too low.

    We do this every 3-5 years. It keeps any hint of air out of the system, and replaces the old fluid, that has absorbed water over the last few years.

    Good luck!
    Pat☺
     
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  21. May 6, 2021 at 8:41 PM
    #21
    Killafinn

    Killafinn New Member

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    I do not have a LSPV on my 4runner. I will take some more pics over the weekend(I am installing OME lift). Procedure I found on Alldata(that is copied from Toyota manual) is: person 1 in the car, key on, step and hold on brake pedal, person 2 opens bleeder, ABS modulator pumps brake fluid through the line(make sure the master is full), when modulator stops close bleeder and move on to the next wheel in the sequence.
     
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