Any one with kings #550 springs?

Yeah I definitely expect to lose out on the quality of ride by going to 3”, but I don’t expect it to be too much since it’s only .5” than their recommended specs. The previous owner of the coilovers said that 550 was “squishy” but perfect for a stock front end, and I also have the 600 spring rate set in case I need them. I’ll definitely start at 2.5” and move my way up and compare ride quality.
He did say that it’s possible to get 50k-100k miles out of the coilovers, dependent on use. He said that jumping, driving at high speeds on washboard roads, or just off roading every week would be why most people have to rebuild them at 30k-40k miles. True?
Thanks for the help!

 

Gotcha, makes total sense! Work week commute is usually 20 miles a day, but weekends goes up more. I generally drive about 17k-20k miles a year, with about 3k-5k total miles of trail time that doesn’t include jumping or high speed runs lol. Well sounds like all I have to look out for is leaking or bad/worsening dampening. Did you have to put anything on the front? I’m planning on running my current fox 2.0 shocks in the rear, which are pretty inexpensive to replace if they get debris damage. I’m going to have the shop that installs them check the pressure to make sure everything is good to go for sure!

 

100%. The shop I’m taking it to actually specializes in off road equipment, and I works on all major coilover brands with rebuilding or building a custom tuned one. Definitely don’t trust a regular tire shop to be touching it lol. Thanks for all the help! Can’t wait to get them on test them out.

 

Anybody know where I can get a mounting bracket for the front reservoirs? I can’t seem to find any online.

 

Did you use a bracket or just some clamps on the frame?

 

just wondering, how many turns per side with the 550lb springs to achieve the 2 1/2” front ? so your at ~ 22 1/2" fronts now?

can you measure the hub to fender distance.

thanks.

 

It has settled a bit since the install, it is now 22 1/4” in the front with 6 threads showing and 24 1/4” rear.

 

I’m mainly concerned of the fronts left and right. Are they both at 22 1/4 at 6 turns?

im at 7 turns on the passenger at 23.5” with 600lbs springs. 11 turns drivers side 23.5”

my concern is the number of turns difference from left to right

 

I have the 1/4” lean with both shocks at the same adjustment, didn’t bother me that much to try and change it.

 

1/4 is not bad. I had close to 3/4

 

Yeah, that’s a little much.

 

Between the 3 runners I’ve have they all vary. My pro was level side to side in the front but 3/4 rear. The 20 orp was 3/4 front and rear.
When I went to lift, level I had to run the drivers side about 13 turns with the eibach coils.

 

Well my front kings came with 550lbs and wanted some slightly stronger springs so I opted for 600lb to test out. But I found these used on IG. With the rack, sliders and low pro winch bumper otw, I think 650 or 700 is the way to go. 600lb was a test spring rate which was used. But during the install I noticed some rust on the lower parts parts of each coil. I wonder if that may have contributed to the height difference? Drivers side sagged more then passenger side. I plan to buy new 650 or 700 coils after installing my low pro winch bumper.

 

Be sure to update us please, i am interested to see the results.

 

thanks. my end goal is to find the correct spring rate which allows me to maximize shock travel with little or no spring load.. but still provide me 23.5" (3.5") lift at the front (with low pro winch bumper, gobi rack, rsg sliders). i'm hoping 650 or 700 will do it. just not sure which one yet. let's see how much i sags when the winch bumper is installed

 

You're wanting to "maximize shock travel" by having zero inches of down travel at ride height? Little to no spring load?

 

Yes if possible

 

That will result in a very poor ride. I would suggest getting the proper spring rate for your vehicle and its added weight, and adjust coilovers to provide an adequate amount of up/down travel. You may want to check out this article to give you a better idea: https://accutuneoffroad.com/oem-front-coilover-shock-setup/

 

yes I’ve read that article before.

What I’m trying to do is to adjust to height and not be topped out. From my understanding, being topped out is having too much pre-load and will not have adequate droop to follow the road. But I’m hoping with the right spring rate, less preload can be applied thus avoiding being topped out. I believe the extra weight (roof rack, sliders, winch bumper) will effect the right height depending on the spring rate chosen.

are you also implying that 23.5” regardless of preload will cause me to be in the topped out ? Perhaps I’m reading this kings spec of 0-3” incorrectly. If I have no exposed coils, is that preload 0 ? With 600lb spring rate, drivers side is at 10 turns preload to get my 23.5”.

if that’s the case, I may come done to 23”, but I didn’t think 0.5” was too much as these kings are rated for 0” - 3” of lift. Right out of the box, it has no preload but still provides 2” of lift.

I have 2” icon springs in the rear which gives me 24” lift. I want a leveled look, thus why I wanted 23.5” front lift.

 

Most of this is discussed in that article.

Usually people add too much preload which equates to not enough droop and the shock riding around topped out, yes.

Measurements we are referring to in that article are referring to the shock length. We never reference fenders to hubs. Remove the spring from the equation, topping out is referring the the shock. Too much preload OR too heavy or long of a spring can also make the shock be topped out at ride height.

Threads showing is not preload.

 

How should I measure my lift ?