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After lift, then what?

Discussion in '2nd Gen 4Runners (1990-1995)' started by offRoadRunner, Dec 27, 2018.

  1. Dec 27, 2018 at 7:35 AM
    #1
    offRoadRunner

    offRoadRunner [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2018
    Member:
    #8215
    Messages:
    10
    Hello,

    New member here. I’ve been doing as much research as I can to find out about lifting and everything that goes with that. Obviously have read the lifted guide and numerous forum posts on other forums as well as this one. Just wondering, after I get this 4” RC lift and swap the blocks for lifted springs (currently thibking the pro comp coils over lo coils because of availability), what else do I need? Extended brake lines, panhard (still unsure what this is) drop bracket, gearing (mine has the factory 4.56), and anything else?

    What would be best to get after the lift? It’s got 31s but I’d like to go to 35s. I’d also like some recovery gear and some armor. What to get first?

    Cheers and thanks for any response!

    55FB9E77-D440-43AB-AEBF-7BC03F290B16.jpg
     
  2. Jan 11, 2019 at 1:36 PM
    #2
    atgparker

    atgparker Cal Poly, ETME 1988

    Joined:
    Jun 20, 2018
    Member:
    #6296
    Messages:
    305
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Andrew
    Mission Viejo, CA
    Vehicle:
    1991 White 4Runner 3.0 L
    Rebuilt Engine MLS and ARP on the heads, DT Header, 2-1/2" CARB compliant Flow-Master CAT with 2.0" Bosal CAT back Dayco 1-1/4" Spacers, SkyJacker M-Series Monotube Shocks, Ball Joint Spacers. 95-9006 K&N Air Cleaner, G-Plus Alum Radiator, ZIrgo 16" Fan, Derale Temp switch/relay
    To do the tire thing right is not a cheap prospect. I ran 31's with 4.11:1 on my 1982 and 5th gear was useless. Then some number of years later as I got some more grey hairs and gained wisdom, I ARBed it and ran 32 x 11.50 R 15 BFG-Muds with 4.88:1 ring and pinions and this was great. This pulled as well as it did when it was stock with the 4.11:1 and 27" OEM-Dunlop's. Oh the memories are still quite vivid, praise the Lord for memories especially the good ones!

    Your intended 31 to 35 as a tire size change only is a bit less than what I had done as far as a jump in gearing but aside from the rolling speed and carrying that speed up hills you have to accelerate all that rolling stock and to do that you need lower gearing if you want to not be slower than you are already. Also, often overlooked is stopping the beast because larger tires disadvantage the brakes just as they to your drive lines mechanical gearing advantage. Drilled/slotted rotors and more aggressive brake pads may negate the fade potential as a starting point on the brake side. But the re-gearing is as much or more than the tires and wheels depending on how you work in the labor to do the change in the axles. And while your their the locking diff is oh such a nice addition to the rigs overall off-road capability.
     
  3. Jan 11, 2019 at 8:57 PM
    #3
    samp_SR5

    samp_SR5 New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 16, 2018
    Member:
    #8063
    Messages:
    6
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Ben
    Vehicle:
    1994 SR5 V6
    HID Headlights, Alpine sound system
    does the lift your getting come with a drop pitman arm or just shocks/springs?
     
  4. Feb 1, 2019 at 6:04 PM
    #4
    offRoadRunner

    offRoadRunner [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2018
    Member:
    #8215
    Messages:
    10
    It’s a 5” roughy country lift with springs and I plan on extended brake lines, regearing, and a locker in the back when I put it on.

    Really I should sas the front from what I’ve read at that height but I going to rock the IFS as long as I can at this point. I’ve spent all my budget in engine repairs right now so gotta save up.
     

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