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5th Generation 4Runner Suspension Options Thread

Discussion in '5th Gen 4Runners (2010+)' started by koukimonster, Nov 11, 2020.

  1. Nov 11, 2020 at 10:52 AM
    #1
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Hello all,

    I'm hoping to get a lot of feedback and info in this thread, and in return I plan to try to keep this original post updated and edited with the relevant information.

    I am a long time petrol head and am very familiar with car suspension, but am new to the truck world and I am trying to grasp what all of the popular options are, and how/when they should be applied. What I would like to do with this thread is create a list of the options which includes descriptions regarding what the options are good (meant) for, the price of the options, things to keep in mind, etc.

    With cars, you basically replace both the spring and shock at the same time so that they are balanced with each other. Usually people replace suspension for handling and/or appearance (to lower the vehicle). This is typically achieved with either a "cup kit" which includes 4 springs and shocks that are designed to work well together, or with a "coil-over kit" which is similar, but of course is adjustable with respect to ride height. Both options further can offer adjustable shocks for rebound and compression control. Of course there are the guys that just slam the car on shorter springs and keep their (busted) stock shocks, but that results in an awful driving experience. Perhaps there is a similar mod done to trucks, and of course I'd like to avoid that. Anyway, it looks like guys replace suspension the 4Runner as pairs interestingly sometimes. And I also keep seeing stuff about lift spacers.

    Personally, I am looking for a mild lift so that I can fit 285/70/R17 tires, but I only want the smallest lift possible for the tires to fit. From what I understand, lifting the body of the 4Runner has a two advantages: you can fit a larger tire (increased ground clearance), and it also improves some other ground clearance as well such as gas tank and the front area due to the suspension design. Personally, I usually dislike the look of lifted 4Runners, because IMO they always lift too much which makes the tires look tiny and silly. But again, I'm new to this and I've only seen a few in person. They were probably mall crawlers on stock tires. I've certainly seen some good looking setups here, so those specs are what I'm after!

    So, as this is obviously a lot of information to request and organize, let's start. Please post up anything you would consider to be a "good option" for lifting the 4Runner, what it's meant for, and what it costs, and of course a photo never hurts! I'd like to keep the suggestions *complete* in that if the lift requires supporting mods such as control arms, please include that in the suggestion as well as price. Maybe I'll also include a "General" area that has info such as "if you lift over XX inches, you'll need new UCA's" .. IF that is something you all seem to be in agreement on.

    FWIW, I am personally looking for a lift that will perform similar to the stock suspension both on and off road. I like the soft suspension for the pot holes in the city, but understand that most aftermarket options are stiffer. So far it has treated me well. It seems like some options are not good for true off-roading, and I would like to avoid those myself. That said, if spacers are actually a fine option for mall-crawling, post it up and I'll add it to the list!

    Sorry for the long post and thanks!
     
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  2. Nov 11, 2020 at 10:53 AM
    #2
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    *work in progress*

    Front:

    Struts -

    Coil Springs -

    "Coil-Over" Setups -

    Coil Spacers -

    Top-Hat Spacers -

    Rear:

    Shocks -

    Coil Springs -

    Coil Spacers -


    Kings
    Redflo
    ELKA
    ADS
    OME
    FOX
    ToyTec
    Dobinsons
    ICON
    Ironman 4x4 - Nitro Gas
    Ironman 4X4 - Foam Cell Pro
    Eibach Pro Truck
    Bilstein 6112
    Bilstein 5160
    Bilstein 5100
    TRD Pro
    TRD Pro FOX

    *work in progress*

    KEY:
    $ = <$800
    $$ = $800-$1500
    $$$ = $1500-$2200
    $$$$ = $2200+
    ^ = Mild Lift (.5"~1.8")
    ^^ = Moderate Lift (2"~2.5")
    ^^^ = Extreme Lift (3"+)
     
    Last edited: Dec 10, 2020
  3. Nov 11, 2020 at 7:03 PM
    #3
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    You can fit 285's on a stock 4Runner if you run the stock wheels (or stock wheel specs). You'll have to dial in the caster on your alignment to center the tire correctly, but it's possible. You might have to do a very small amount of fender flare trimming, but that's really easy.

    If you want a mild lift, you can get some Eibach adjustable shocks and set them on the 0.85" setting with your stock coils. They ride really nice on and off-road. They are firmer than stock but they're not harsh like some offroad shocks can be.

    Here are my specs:
    P285/70/17 Firestone Destination A/T's ($900)
    Eibach Adjustable front shocks set to 1.6" of lift ($260)
    Stock height in the rear with stock shocks
    Caster set to 3.6 degrees ($200 lifetime alignment)
    Fender liner mod

    [​IMG]
     
  4. Dec 1, 2020 at 12:08 PM
    #4
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Thanks, nimby! Starting to make a (rough) list, here... Kings, ICON, Toytec, Radflo, Elka, ADS, Dobinsons (so many models), Ironman 4x4, Eibach Pro Truck, Bilstein 6112, 5100, 5160.

    Still trying to figure out when people replace just springs, just shocks, just shocks in the front?.. lots to read lol.

    My goal with this thread is for it to be complete, because so far I just see a lot of fragmented info out there, while at the same time a lot of threads of guys in my boat that have no idea where to start.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
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  5. Dec 1, 2020 at 12:13 PM
    #5
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    When lifting the truck, I see that a lot of people choose to lift the rear end less than the front (or not at all). Why?

    Is it for appearance?
    Is it due to cost?
    Or is it because once the truck is lifted, there is now ample room for rear suspension compression without the fear of bottoming out, even if the truck is loaded up in the rear? But still, wouldn't the caused reverse rake impact steering and braking performance?

    Is there any (good) reason at all to NOT raise the rear as much as the front? Does it just not need "as much" of a lift?
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
  6. Dec 1, 2020 at 12:16 PM
    #6
    trlhiker

    trlhiker New Member

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    The front is lower than the rear stock which is why people who lift raise the front more than the rear so it levels out the vehicle.
     
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  7. Dec 1, 2020 at 12:18 PM
    #7
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Sure, but the rear is higher stock for a reason... so is there a GOOD reason to do that? Or is it just done because some people prefer the look without any forward rake? And I assume those people never load up the rear, or they would then have reverse rake (gross)?
     
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  8. Dec 1, 2020 at 4:59 PM
    #8
    Dabigono

    Dabigono New Member

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    don't go with IRONMAN 4X4 if you're looking for a "minimal" lift. it made my stock-sized tires look smaller. But i like it!

    fullsizeoutput_7e8.jpg
     
  9. Dec 1, 2020 at 6:28 PM
    #9
    nimby

    nimby in the drink

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    The rear is roughly 1.75" higher than the front. That's a pretty big discrepancy.

    I think it's primarily for improved aerodynamics.

    It doesn't need to be that much taller in the back for towing or putting weight in the back. Plenty of people get away with just lifting the front 1" and still not having reverse rake.......especially when you add firmer offroad shocks.
     
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  10. Dec 1, 2020 at 7:03 PM
    #10
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    If you prefer a cushy ride, I believe a progressive valved shock will be ideal for you.

    There were a few reasons for me.

    First, the front skid plate was the lowest point, and always getting bashed into things.

    Second, I was trying to go with less lift in general, as I agree that they look weird with higher lift unless you go big with tires. I did go with heavier springs in the rear to maintain some rake, and to avoid sagging when loaded with camping gear or towing.

    For reference, I am lifted 2.3" in front and 1.5" in the rear. I went with Bilstein 6112's and 5100's. These are digressive valved, so the ride is fairly rigid. I am very happy with them.

    Here's a picture showing the stance. The tires are 285/70/17 (32.8").

    20200816_190011_HDR_(1).jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
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  11. Dec 1, 2020 at 7:48 PM
    #11
    Redned

    Redned New Member

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    Bilstein 6112/ 5112 suspension. RCI sliders, ARB skid plates, Icon UCA’s, Icon 2” rear coils, TRD LED fog lights, 30” LED light bar. TSO Grille. 285/70/17 BFG KO2’s, Icon Vector 6 wheels. Weathertech floor mats. 2.5”/ 2” lift. K&N CAI.
    You are getting some really good advice from these guys. As stated above, the back is 1.75 higher than front, which I believe is to get the MPG’s down, so if gas mileage critical, leave the rake.

    I have the 6112/5160’s and like them a lot both on and off road. I started with the fronts set at 1.6 and nothing in the rear, which is pretty darn close to level. In less than a year I wanted a higher lift, so I raised the front to the top perch at +/-2.5 with 2” coils in back. It gives me just a little rake.

    If I were smarter, I would have gone straight to the higher lift and saved myself a few bucks by not having to redo the coilovers twice.

    I thought I’d be good with leveling it, but once I took it off road a few times I just had to have the bigger tires and higher lift. Lift height really depends on how You want to use it.
     
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  12. Dec 2, 2020 at 8:11 AM
    #12
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Killer, dudes. Thanks for the info! I'm going to work on building a more legit list in post 2, today, and try to get some more specific info moving forward.
     
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  13. Dec 2, 2020 at 8:48 AM
    #13
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug New Member

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    I am running 2.5” in the front, and 2” longer springs in the rear.

    CE680F6F-9D61-494D-BAFF-BB419CAC191C.jpg
     
  14. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:06 AM
    #14
    PrettyGoodSam

    PrettyGoodSam New Member

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  15. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:43 AM
    #15
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    Great looking 4runner!
     
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  16. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:48 AM
    #16
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Get those sexy knobby tires outta here, slvr! :p I finally managed to get my set of 275's balanced so by darn it they are here to stay! At least for a year or two lol. So with my modest tire upgrade, I think I personally am looking for in the range of 1.5-2" lift up front. I want to keep similar geometry to stock, MPG's matter a little to me (already killed them enough with these 58 lb. tires), I prefer the aesthetic of forward rake, and also load up the rear pretty good with cargo when I go camping.. so now to figure out how much to lift the rear.. probably an inch?

    What are my options for lifting the rear of the truck 1"? Is this something a spring, or shock, should do alone? Or should I replace the rear spring and shock?

    It seems like the factory excess amount of rear wheel gap is further highlighted / exposed after lifting the truck (if lifting the front and rear the same amount.

    That said, when you guys lift your trucks, are you going by what the specs say, or are you actually measuring, before and after, wheel center to hub?
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
  17. Dec 2, 2020 at 9:52 AM
    #17
    Chris In Milwaukee

    Chris In Milwaukee New Member

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    2.5" front, 1.5" rear Dobinsons for me with new UCAs. Stock tire size at the moment. Ride is as good or better than stock with springs and shocks/struts matched to one another, IMO. Equipment specs in my signature along with the build thread if you'd like additional info.


     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
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  18. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:03 AM
    #18
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Thanks, Chris! Do you have a pic taken directly from the side? That's a great example of a pretty standard lift on OE sized tires!

    Personally, I actually think that wouldn't look too bad on my 275's, but I am still leaning toward an even milder lift, unless you guys talk me out of that lol.

    From my car days, I learned that every bit you stray from stock will cause more work, headaches, expense.. whatever you wanna call it. I'm trying to retain OEM reliability, and I feel like a smaller change to the suspension geometry will help facilitate that. Nothing wrong with larger lifts, but I am trying to avoid replacing the UCAs, dropping the diff, dealing with extreme CV angles, etc.. at least for now heh. While I used to mod hard, it also meant that I had to maintain harder. I am trying to avoid that with the 4Runner if possible.
     
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  19. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:06 AM
    #19
    Chris In Milwaukee

    Chris In Milwaukee New Member

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    Let me see what I can round up. I agree with your lift observations, and that's my philosophy as well. I don't plan for it to go any higher. My shorty wife has enough trouble getting in and out of it as it is!

    @Thatbassguy guy and I are similarly configured, height-wise, and it's a nice combination. I'd like my next set of tire to be 285s, but 275s aren't off the table. There are just fewer options out there for that size.
     
  20. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:08 AM
    #20
    Chris In Milwaukee

    Chris In Milwaukee New Member

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    Here you go. That's right after the installation. The rear end has settled down a little bit since I have some miles on it. Takes a few hundred miles for the springs to settle.

    I forgot to mentioned, entire suspension system front and rear, about $1700 invested.

    Before:

    After:

    Front:
     
  21. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:12 AM
    #21
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Appreciate it! I'd probably go for the standard 285/70 or maybe the 255/80 if I were you. In my case, I went with the 275's simply because I didn't plan on lifting for a few years (whoops lol), but wanted something better than stock. I did this immediately after purchasing the truck so that I could get some coin out of the stock tires, so I didn't have a whole lot of time to cram all this info in. In hindsight, I would probably have lifted first and gone for 285's, but that's only because it appears that my suspension options will be far cheaper than I imagined. I was fully expecting a minimum of $2,000 to properly lift the 4Runner. I'm happy to learn that it should be cheaper for a minimal lift. At least I managed to cram the 275's in there and I'm happy I did because that way at least a mild lift won't look TOO bad to my eyes.
     
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  22. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:35 AM
    #22
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    Even stock size looks good with a smaller lift. But, it needs to be something with some sidewall tread. This was right after lift and before tires.

    20200321_145110-1.jpg
     
  23. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:36 AM
    #23
    Chris In Milwaukee

    Chris In Milwaukee New Member

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    You so fancy.
     
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  24. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:42 AM
    #24
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    Those KO2's looked so good! :)
     
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  25. Dec 2, 2020 at 10:58 AM
    #25
    Daytonaviolet

    Daytonaviolet TRD Bro

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    looks good. can you tell me about your rear springs :) looks like your running kings. do you have adjusters?
     
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  26. Dec 2, 2020 at 11:25 AM
    #26
    koukimonster

    koukimonster [OP] DYNO4

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    Would someone please list the specs of the TRD Pro suspensions if you know it off the top of your head? I believe they changed the Pro suspension at some point, but I'm not sure if it changed the lift/geometry at all (doubtful). Is it true that it lifts the front by 1", and not the rear at all (interesting)? If so, that would help ease my pedantic mind.. knowing that the Toyota engineers agree that less additional lift is needed in the rear when using a stiffer spring (assuming that's the case).
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2020
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  27. Dec 2, 2020 at 11:27 AM
    #27
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    I do know that they swapped from Bilstein to Fox awhile back. I can't say for sure about height, though.
     
  28. Dec 2, 2020 at 12:01 PM
    #28
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug New Member

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    I did not go with the adjusters, because i had them on a different vehicle and never used them. The rear springs are OME, i do not remember what the # is but i think they are the next one’s up from the softest if that make any sense.
     
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  29. Dec 2, 2020 at 12:05 PM
    #29
    SlvrSlug

    SlvrSlug New Member

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    Here’s a little better look.

    B032B94D-82C6-4A90-A3F9-D81813513B88.jpg
     
  30. Dec 2, 2020 at 12:14 PM
    #30
    Thatbassguy

    Thatbassguy New member? Really??

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    Vehicle:
    2019 TRDORP, KDSS, MGM
    RSG sliders, Yakima offgrid basket, Pro-Comp wheels, SOS Streamline bumper and skids, Warn VR EVO10S winch + Ultimate Sidewinder, Bilstein 6112 + 5100 + rear lift coils, Rigid Dually SS ditch lights w/Caliraised brackets and OEM style dash switch
    Falkens? How do you like them?
     

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