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4wd Indicator Light Blinking

Discussion in 'General 4Runner Talk' started by hpierce11, Oct 23, 2016.

  1. Oct 23, 2016 at 7:55 AM
    #1
    hpierce11

    hpierce11 [OP] New Member

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    Hayden
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    Okay, sort of freaking out.

    Bought my SR5 yesterday and was playing with the 4wd knob, switching to all the settings in park. I wasnt aware that I had to be in neutral. But I also don't think it can be that be of a deal. I'm curious on what I need to do. I've looked at other threads about this, but they are ideas for older models. Has anyone else with 5th generations had this problem and how did you fix it?

    Thanks!
     
  2. Oct 23, 2016 at 9:20 AM
    #2
    MeefZah

    MeefZah Curmudgeonly

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    Lexington, Ohio
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    Fuck yo' overlanding
    The 4Hi green light is flashing, yes? Basically it indicates that 4Hi is "on" but not engaged. Being in 'park' is not a problem. You need to drive it a little bit, if the knob is still in 4Hi then after some movement the transfer case will shift into 4Hi and the light will go steady; if you are in 2Hi then after some movement the light will turn off. If the light doesn't turn off after doing this, try backing up 100 feet or so, that should work to get things synched.

    There needs to be some movement to get the T-case to engage. Generally 4Hi is switched into while you are driving forward, in D / 4/ 3/ 2/ 1 so that's usually a non issue.
     
  3. Nov 9, 2016 at 6:17 PM
    #3
    scrubber3

    scrubber3 New Member

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    I'd consult the owners manual first and foremost
     
  4. Nov 10, 2016 at 11:28 AM
    #4
    jester243

    jester243 rabble rabble rabble

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    nah, just consult the post above yours, I think he nailed it
     
  5. Nov 10, 2020 at 11:29 AM
    #5
    Mhiller11

    Mhiller11 New Member

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    3” OME Lift, CBI Skids & Front Bumper, Wilco Tire Carrier, Prinsu Rack, ToyTec Sliders, Ham Radio.
    I’m having the same issue with my 2016 4Runner Trail. I had the front differential lock actuator replaced 4 times in 4 years and it recents stopped working for me yet again. The dealership says it’s water getting in there which is hard to believe since I haven’t done any off roading since it was replaced the last 2 times.

    Any help/advice would be greatly appreciated.
     
  6. Feb 14, 2022 at 3:41 AM
    #6
    Maine4r

    Maine4r New Member

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    toytec 2.5” lift, locked, armor, bumpers, sliders, roof rack, dual battery, air, etc.
    I’ve been having the same issue with my 2020. Engage 4wd and the light blinks continually. 4wd is working at this point while the light blinks. Stays that way even after I do all the normal tricks to get it to go solid. 4wd is operating at this point but I can’t go to 4lo or 2wd, I’m stuck in 4Hi until I just the vehicle off and leave it for a while. The front diff actuator has been replaced twice. Arg!
     
  7. Feb 14, 2022 at 4:54 AM
    #7
    Toy4X4

    Toy4X4 New Member

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    RevTek 3" front- 2" rear leveling, JBA uca's, LED interior lights, Cooper 275-70-17 AT3 LT
    Don't forget to "exercise" the 4WD modes once in a while, some of these problems may be due to that. We noticed on our Tacoma when we didn't "exercise" the 4WD modes that it was a bit more difficult to get the different modes to work (non flashing lights etc.) The Tacoma had a switch vs. the lever in our 4Runner, which seems to be less problematic than the switch.
     
    alittleoff likes this.
  8. Feb 14, 2022 at 11:31 AM
    #8
    alittleoff

    alittleoff New Member

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    A couple times a month, I'll engage 4H, 4L and the rear locker while driving down my driveway to make sure the vacuum connect/disconnect on the front axle and rear locker work freely. Since we have an actual T-case shifter lever, there is no doubt that the T-case is engaging.

    Oh how I miss the simplicity of turning the hubs on my old '73 TLC. Direct and no doubt. No lights needed.
     
    Toy4X4 likes this.
  9. Feb 28, 2022 at 3:17 PM
    #9
    Maine4r

    Maine4r New Member

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    toytec 2.5” lift, locked, armor, bumpers, sliders, roof rack, dual battery, air, etc.
    *update*
    I believe the dealership finally figured out the issue and this has, most likely, been the issue from day 1 (multiple visits and 3 actuators later). Cut in the actuator breather tube allowing water in and destroying the electronics. This is a good find and something to look for if you are having issues.

    What stinks- dealer wants to charge me $800 to fix it! Not under warranty (it’s 2 years old and 30k miles) because it was fixed once and they told me I needed to remove my lift kit and oversized tires -crazy. Doing those things wouldn’t have fixed the hole in the breather tube. They never checked to see WHY my actuator failed the previous 2 times, they just replaced it and sent me on my way.
     
    MeefZah likes this.

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