2022 4Runner Brake Bleed - Help

A few questions and current issue. I've seen a couple different threads for sequence. I started with the rear passenger, then rear driver's side. **However, I'm seeing now for 5th gen, you should do the front passenger side first (ignition off), then front drivers' side (ignition off), then turn ignition on and do the rear passenger, then rear drivers side (Please confirm this is the correct sequence).

The big issue right now, is I think the reservoir got too low. Now my ABS light and anti-lock brake failure warning is coming on when turning on ignition, and no more fluid was coming out of rear so figure I have air in master cylinder. I tried pumping brakes 40 plus times, etc, then tried disconnecting the batter to reset and tried repumping the brakes. Maybe worse after bad decisions..

Do I have to go to dealer, or if I pump brakes another 20-times, then start with front passenger then drivers side.. would this clear any air and allow me to move forward, clear warnings, etc.

Looking for input if anyone has ideas or knows what to do. I've blotched an easy maintenance routine.

 

Generally you start at the wheel furthest from the master. The fronts will auto bleed with the ignition on but not sure about the rear. If you got air into the ABS module will require a scan tool for bleeding.

 

Just did in new order.. from front right first. Back to normal, no lights, problem solved.

 

How many miles do you have on your truck?

 

Why are you having to bleed brakes on a 3 year old car?

 

Generally every 2 years is a good interval for brake fluid since it’s hygroscopic.

 

How did you end up getting the fronts to bleed? Pumping them or turning the key on?

 

That's the brake fluid replacement interval in Toyota's maintenance booklet. Used to be every 4 years, but Toyota had a bunch of master cylinder seal failures during their recall crisis circa 2010, thereafter the interval was reduced to 3 years.

 

I bought a test strip that changes color when dipped in coolant and the opposite end (marked and has different chemistry) changes color when dipped in brake fluid. There is a color graph printed on packaging to compare test strip for color reading for result. The package is burried in garage so the brand is not in my head right now.
If I remember the details: coolant is tested for acidity and brake fluid is tested for moisture. This can assist when to refresh or change fluids.

 

The procedure listed here has me confused. Step 1d has you repeatedly depressing the brake pedal with the caliper valve open, but not on rear? Then the hint section says pumping the pedal is not necessary because the electric brake pump will make it flow continously (with ignition on). It’s like a mix of procedures, not very clear.

Has anyone tried to bleed brakes using this procedure. Am I misunderstanding how this is written?

 

Cross referencing this manual info with other processes I've researched I believe with Key Accessory On the front brakes still needs to be pumped while the motor will take care of the rears (no pumping required here).

I've never see any other info pumping the front brakes and leaving the bleeder open? I would open with the pedal depressed then close the bleeder then pump the brake, depress-hold, open and close, repeat.... Maybe you can leave the front open and pump the brakes?

The first time I did it I followed the pattern per manual but just gravity bled, then second time using Car Care Nuts method using a small hand vac pump followed by a minute of gravity dripping.

 

It seems odd. I’d be freaked out pumping the fronts while the bleeder valve is open. Even if somehow air is not sucked into the system using this process, it seems like a recipe for disaster since I could see this quickly emptying out the reservoir.

The rears seem more clear, just hold brake pressure on pedal, open bleeder, and keep pedal pushed down while the motor pumps away. The hint section makes sense if it applies only for the rears. Maybe the hint doesn’t apply to the fronts, because if it did, it would contradict the directions for the fronts.

For a simple fluid replacement, I think I’d rather suck out and replace the fluid in the resevoir only, and do that once a year to keep it fresh. But it’s still nice to know the factory method for the times you need to change out a brake line or caliper. Thanks for posting your experience.

 

Pumping the brake pedal while bleeding is how it’s been done forever. You close the bleeder midway through the last pump once no more air bubbles are coming out. The rear brakes are the anomaly with the pump system. I replaced a rear caliper a couple weeks ago and turning the key to on and holding down the brake pedal turns on the pump and pushes out a lot of fluid fast. It works great.