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2020 T4R Offroad Premium w/KDSS, My First TOY!

Discussion in '5th Gen Builds (2010+)' started by kailuakona04, Jun 11, 2020.

  1. Jun 11, 2020 at 7:47 AM
    #1
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    So fare the built is coming along quite nicely and pretty happy with the near stock look and finish of the Blue Sea power install to the rear. Only 1 very small tab broke during this install. Next project will be the fabrication of the rear deck plate used to mount the rear drawer system.

    Of note, the rear cargo trays above the wheel wells are snapped in but also have 2 small screws holding the trays in and can not be removed unless by force. TIP: If you're doing an install like this go ahead and remove those 2 screws from under the inside of the tray so you have complete access with all the paneling/carpet back in. Now all I have to do is snap those panels out and I have access to any future wiring.

    As always, any comments/suggestions as I move forward are greatly appreciated to minimize unforeseen mistakes that have already been made.
    IMG_3378.jpg IMG_3380.jpg IMG_3381.jpg IMG_3382.jpg IMG_3383.jpg IMG_3388.jpg IMG_3394.jpg IMG_3396.jpg IMG_3395.jpg IMG_3397.jpg
     
    Snickel Fritz, Rakcam76 and nimby like this.
  2. Jun 13, 2020 at 10:57 PM
    #2
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    So as of now I'm on stand still until Thursday to start building the base plate to house the cabinet. I'm left to make cardboard mock-ups of the craziness going on in my head. My thoughts are doing a base plate over the rear deck that will bold directly to the T4R's underside and also inserting T-nuts in the underside of the base plate to bolt the cabinets to. Making them basically modular to take in and out. The plan is to also Rhino Line the 1/2" plywood base plate to make it durable once all the T-nuts are in place.
    IMG_3444.jpg IMG_3445.jpg IMG_3442.jpg IMG_3446.jpg
     
  3. Jun 14, 2020 at 7:18 AM
    #3
    brownbear

    brownbear Relax

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    OB Fl
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    NFab side steps TRD matte blk wheels K&N airfilter, go rhino rear hitch step,
    Welcome from FL.
     
  4. Jun 14, 2020 at 9:25 AM
    #4
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    Florida Boy myself. Thanks for the welcome!
     
  5. Jun 17, 2020 at 10:57 AM
    #5
    wmdtech

    wmdtech Send MOD Money!!

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    Looking forward to the drawer set up!
     
    kailuakona04 [OP] likes this.
  6. Jun 18, 2020 at 1:18 PM
    #6
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    You and me both! I need to satisfy the itch and looking forward to another build challenge.
     
    wmdtech likes this.
  7. Jun 19, 2020 at 8:14 AM
    #7
    fajitas21

    fajitas21 New Member

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    I like the idea of the larger AWG wire going to back to power the fuse block and then a panel for inputs. I have an open Anderson connect there, but that's much cleaner. Do you have a video or a reference you followed to pull out the rear wheel well? I'd like to have access to that for some other stuff.
     
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  8. Jun 21, 2020 at 11:35 AM
    #8
    kaitlyn2004

    kaitlyn2004 New Member

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    When you removed the cargo carpet+the hard foam, what is it you put down in its place? Also, I'm a little weary of that conduit+box that runs/stops basically in the center. Did you do anything to help protect it, given the hard foam had cutout for it?
     
    kailuakona04 [OP] likes this.
  9. Jun 25, 2020 at 12:22 PM
    #9
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    I put down Dynamat sound mat on the bare metal and I'm still using the styrofoam piece along with the original carpet. (See pics right before the cardboard box mock-up) I found that the styrofoam fills in the voids and already has the cut out without having to build spacers on the bottom of my platform. The carpet is just to add another layer of sound deadening.
    My platform will bolt into the existing bolt holes for the cargo hooks (no longer installed) behind the rear seats and I drilled two other holes by the rear hatch. I had to remove the spare tire and make sure the bolts didn't interfere with the tire mounted underneath. Still waiting on the Dometic fridge slide to mark the mounting holes and finish the remaining drill holes where I'll insert T-nuts through the bottom of the platform to attach the cabinets.
    Hopefully my fridge slide gets in soon so I can move forward with the cabinet build.:frustrated:
     
  10. Jun 25, 2020 at 12:34 PM
    #10
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    I didn't video it at all and I guess I should have. It's all pop fasteners except the seat belt harnesses and a few 10mm screws here and there. If you pull on it and it doesn't pop, look for a bolt you missed! Buy one of the cheap plastic panel remover sets on Amazon, LIFESAVER! Or plastic saver. Go slow; it took me the majority of the weekend just so I could be meticulous on removing the panels carefully.
    TIP: The rear seat belt panels where the belt bolts into the frame, it's a plastic pop out but also has a 10mm bolt in there and it doesn't pop outward, it pops inward toward the center of the truck. I ended up breaking one of the tabs off.
    TIP2: Once you have the panel off, remove the 2 small silver set screws underneath holding the rear quarter panel trays on; they're inside the panel. I did it to both sides while everything was out. Now I can just pop those wheel well trays out and access the wiring or add additional wiring without having to remove the entire panel. Those trays just pop out/in with clips now that the 2 screws are removed. Why Toyota put screws inside the plastic wheel wells to keep those panels from being removed is a mystery.
    Hope this helps.
     
  11. Jun 25, 2020 at 4:23 PM
    #11
    kaitlyn2004

    kaitlyn2004 New Member

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    Ah, gotcha. My plan was to discard the white styrofoam piece to gain another 1" or so of space below the "leveling platform" which would allow me to store just a bit more down there, since I don't plan to permanently mount items on top of it, like a fridge
     
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  12. Jun 25, 2020 at 6:01 PM
    #12
    Snickel Fritz

    Snickel Fritz Grew Up Around Lead Paint

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    I must say, seeing your cardboard mock-ups has given me the urge to start tackling my own platform, which I've been procrastinating over.
    Looking good, can't wait to see how it comes together. Thanks for sharing!
     
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  13. Jun 25, 2020 at 8:41 PM
    #13
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    You could but it sure has helped with actually leveling the cargo area since it already has every edge/curve already molded into it. Maybe I'm just lazy but that's the way I'm starting; you'll know soon enough if that just doesn't work. I really don't think you're going to "get a bit more" after it's all said and done; maybe a bit more frustrated in having to figure out all those spacers just to get it level. I used the pre-existing cargo mounts behind the seat as my platform mounts so that's why it made since to keep the stock thickness.
    You never plan for anything, it's all made with the notion to expand on it, should you want to. At least in my case. Either way, keep the styrofoam, you never know if it might come in handy if you're hard thought out plans go awry!
     
  14. Jun 26, 2020 at 9:24 PM
    #14
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    So......today I got in the Rago compressor tray that "should" fit the ARB single or dual compressors. It's for a 2019, which I knew going into this but they also sent me, via customer service a workaround that a 2020 T4R customer had sent them to modify the relay mount that sits where this compressor tray should bolt to. More to follow as my frustration with incompetent customer service reps don't answer pointed questions that were straight from their installation videos. If I've offended anyone, I apologize......just answer my questions!
    :lalala:= customer service!
     
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  15. Jun 27, 2020 at 4:32 PM
    #15
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    Rago ARB Compressor plate installed; minor modifications but otherwise fairly painless. I didn't use the mounting holes they had plus they didn't align it to have all 4 bolts mounting the single air compressor, only 3....and that was OK with them. Maybe an afterthought after they had already designed the platform to house a dual compressor then thought, hey maybe there are people that only need or have the budget to run a single compressor. Whoops, forgot...but 3 bolts are just as good. I'm sure ARB would be OK with it too.
    Anyway, I kept the original relay box mount there, shaved it down just to the bottom of the circular hole. Almost an inch, but I didn't measure, make small hacks to find just where the relay box could still mount in the original position and have enough room under the new platform. The triangle hole is closer to the top and is (was) used to lock the plastic relay box. Not any more! I also shaved down the sides of the plastic box where the mount slides into the plastic groove to lock it otherwise the box will hit the mounting bracket in the fender side; be sure to not cut through or all the way to the top as the top is what stops the relay box from sliding completely down and pinching the wire harness below.
    I also kept the original mount on the fender well but removed the small tab that inserted into the second bolt hole.
    The three allen bolts that install from inside the the drivers fender well are an AK! Large hands beware! Those drive upward and into the driver's side fender to mount the lower leg of the platform. You'll still need to use the allen later to hold each bolt and tighten the 10mm lock nuts onto the support leg. 1/4 drive ratchet with 2 extensions and a u-joint worked out to compensate for the odd angle.
    Either way, looks good and it's installed sideways vice facing front to back like in Rago's video. This gives more room on the platform too for added whatever, more air circulation and I can still install the Swithch-Pro (if I go that route) near the firewall like the platform is already designed for. All the wiring for the compressor tuck nicely underneath the platform and I added a grommet to the hole for the main battery and ground connector. You have to pull the white and black wires from the white connector beforehand, the connector will not fit through the manufacturer's holes, then run the bare leads up from the bottom then reinsert the wire leads back into the connector. After that just connect the compressor and you're set.
    Oh, and I did a dry run last night with the Dometic CFX3-45 on the medium battery setting plugged into the rear Blue Sea. Stayed above 12.6 the entire night and I didn't wake up to either a dead battery or the fridge turned off. SUCCESS! I really thought I'd have an issue, quite impressed.

    IMG_3478.jpg IMG_3484.jpg IMG_3480.jpg IMG_3483.jpg IMG_3482.jpg IMG_3485.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jun 27, 2020
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  16. Jun 29, 2020 at 10:12 PM
    #16
    kailuakona04

    kailuakona04 [OP] New Member

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    In-Progress.
    RCI Sliders just came today along with my Air Onboard switches for my SSO bumper light bar (light bar still on back order) and my ARB compressor switch. Compressor switch already installed and operational in the factory dash cutouts; thank you John at AOB for the wiring breakdown to match the ARB harness. :headbang: Can't wait to check out the lighting at night!
     

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