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1989 toyota 4quoia with a 2uz-fe v8 (start up post 230)

Discussion in '1st Gen Builds (1984-1989)' started by 36tacundra, Nov 8, 2019.

  1. Feb 19, 2021 at 11:08 AM

    flyinhoot When in doubt, Throttle out.

    Apr 15, 2020
    First Name:
    Nor Cal
    2020 TRD Pro 4Runner "Trudy"
    Monochrome everything. LED reverse lights.
    You even got to wheel it! It has already seen more offroad then the majority of 4 runners :devil::dancingbroccoli:
  2. Feb 22, 2021 at 7:22 PM

    36tacundra [OP] New Member

    Mar 16, 2019
    Asking a dealer or a shop to work on this think would be a sick joke.

    I found 2 people who are doing a swap with 4.7s and both used ac delco belt 6k615 to use without AC.
    I had the same problem I still had the ac pump on to use just as a pully.
    Since they already had the problem solved, I went for it.
    Yesterday I spent 2 hours or so trying to get it to work. The belt was to small.
    I ended up ruining the drive belt tensioner.
    So today I called around and found out there are two options for tensioners.
    One is 90 and the other is 105 cm or metric whatever.
    I got the small one.

    So this is where the sick joke begins.
    In a Sequoia, the job can be done without removing much. LOL!
    Not mine.

    Drain engine coolant.
    pull battery.
    remove upper and lower cooling hoses.
    unbolt inside cooling fan and squeeze out into area battery was located.
    remove transmission cooling lines and fittings from radiator so radiator can be removed.
    unbolt power steering pump and set it to the side.
    unbolt alternator and set it to the side.
    remove passenger side timing cam cover.
    remove small plastic timing cover that lays over drive belt tensioner.
    Now the drive belt tensioner can be removed.
    Install new one.

    Now install new drive belt to verify fitment, because now with a smaller pully on the tensioner the old belt will be to big.

    It was tight, but it fit!!!!!

    Now remove ac pump and install all above items in reverse order.

    It really has no room.
    I will have to just about the same for an alternator, if and when it goes bad.

    IMG_2134.jpg IMG_2135.jpg IMG_2136.jpg IMG_2137.jpg
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2021
    SlvrSlug, nimby and Thatbassguy like this.
  3. Feb 24, 2021 at 9:39 PM

    36tacundra [OP] New Member

    Mar 16, 2019
    Well... The other day, I took some time to connect the power steering pump to the reservoir. I had to extend a line. It wasn't a big deal. I filled it with fluid and started up the engine. My dad told me it needed more fluid, but I looked under the truck first and saw where it all went.

    Today I went under the truck to see what it was. Whenever I put in the steering rack or the power steering hard lines into the frame, I did not connect the non pressured line. It was just hanging out. Sounds like a five minute fix right? WRONG, not when you cram a v8 where it does not belong. It would be a lot easier to dismount the engine mount and lift the engine up and out of the way, or do it before mounting the engine.
    I had to take off the skid plate. I took out the bolts for the front diff, so the diff would hang down a little lower. just to get enough room to put my hands in there. It was a pain.

    After the truck ate up my hands a bit. I scabbed together the exhaust manifold. Man my welds look like shit. I was in a hurry and there is still no room. I kept moving forward though. I got the exhaust manifold around the steering shaft piece by piece. I cut off the cat. It did not fit with the angle of the down pipe. I will have to cut it and rotate it also.
    Guess what? The cat wants to occupy the space the e brake, gas tank, and all the other parts want to be. I got to get that figured out.

    So I did fire the engine with exhaust ran to the tip of the cat. It was a bit quieter. I was able to get the air out of the power steering pump, so that is working now.

    So that boiled down to todays progress, a little bit quieter and got me some power steering!
    nimby, Big_jarv and SlvrSlug like this.
  4. Mar 5, 2021 at 8:00 PM

    36tacundra [OP] New Member

    Mar 16, 2019
    Today I mounted the ABS pump module. I took the pump off the bracket. The bracket would have made the abs module to high in the engine bay, so I cut the bracket apart. I welded it together with the abs mount about a half inch lower. I was able to use one mounting bolt on the wheel well. This was to the front of the truck. The rear mount had to be raised a inch or so. I used the lower control a arm alignment cams to build a lift. I cut about an inch off trimmed it up and welded a 12mm nut on both ends.

    Then the inside mount had to be raised a 2.5 to 3.5 inches. It looks a bit ugly, but I can always change it later. I used the big flat cam marks on both sides to make a larger surface for stability. Like the small spacer, I welded 12mm nuts in the ends.

    In this photo it can be seen the mounts to the fender side are higher than the part that holds the abs module.
    and now it is mounted. Making new brake lines will be a bit of a chore. I start by cutting the stock Sequoia lines in half at the fire wall.

    My goal is to get an idea how they will go and if they work out, I will have a pattern to follow.
    One line is going to work out without any trouble. From the abs pump module to the front right wheel. It would be nice if they were all that way.
    The next thing I did was separate the main lines from the brake booster to the abs module. I cut 7 or 8 inches out of the middle to get close.


    This gives me the pattern I need to make new lines. Its to bad that the original lines are not a bit more pliable. I would be able to make it work. Here is where I left off.
    SlvrSlug, Big_jarv and nimby like this.

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