How many have done the metal oil filter mod?

Hello All,

Looking for some advice.

I had alot of issues with the plastic oil filter housing getting stuck. First time around i thought it was done by the dealer (it was under warranty) and figured they just over torqued it.

Then the second and third time it was stuck as well, even when i did the oil change, i use two different torque wrenches so i am confident it was not over torqued.

This cost me two runs to my mechanic where he had to use heat to get it off. Inconvenient, plus the added risk of having to use heat in such a tight area.

He replaced it with an after market metal one, he did not transfer the old stand pipe and spring as the aftermarket came with everything assembled. I did keep the original.

No issues since then, however recently came across some youtube videos and more than one of them has said the after market oil housing is a mistake as the spring is not calibrated to what Toyota wants.

So i'm thinking to swop out again for the Toyota metal housing (part code

$55 15620-31060 15643-31050

15620-31060) and use the spring and tube from the original plastic filter that came with the truck.

Only problem is, again a few trusted people are saying as soon as the spring is taken out of the original filter, it's no good.

Thoughts? Is it ok to swop the stand pipe and spring?

Thanks,

 

I bought my 2022 SR5 Premium 4WD pre-owned / certified from the Toyota dealer in November of 2023. When it came time to do its first oil and filter change, I was nervous about that filter cap (the factory plastic one) being a problem. I was expecting to go to war with it when it came time to remove it. I had my breaker bar attached to the filter wrench.

Much to my surprise and relief, it broke loose with no problems. That factory original plastic cap on my truck is in perfect shape, and when I change the filter, which I've already done twice more since purchasing the truck, the filter end cap always unscrews just fine. I have a quality torque wrench, so I always torque the cap to the specs when re-installing! (I just can't remember the spec by heart at the moment- but I do have the specs for the filter cap and oil pan drain bolt written down in my notes for when ever I do the oil change.)

If you're going to be doing your own oil and filter changes, be sure to use the new O-Ring provided in the Toyota brand filter kit, and place it in the CORRECT groove position on the filter cap, and also spread oil all around the circumference of that O-Ring, so it's lubed up good so it won't bind up when you're screwing that cap back up in to place!

Also, be sure to use a new crush washer on the oil pan drain bolt. again, I tighten to specs using a torque wrench.

In summation, I haven't had any problems with that plastic filter end cap so far, which would have necessitated or forced me to purchase a new one, or to purchase the metal end cap. If your plastic cap looks to be damaged, cracked, or butchered up in any way, buy a new one, plastic, or metal.

If you do switch to the metal filter end cap, it is my understanding that you have to change that tubular "stand pipe" as you call it, from your old plastic end cap, to your new metal end cap. There are good videos on YouTube that show how to do that. It doesn't appear too tricky to do it. someone else here who has successfully converted from plastic to metal may come along and comment here with more detail. I think it is important to swap that longer "stand pipe" over from the old plastic cap, to the new metal one, to help keep the filter element from collapsing. Make sure to use the proper length filter element- I think there is a shorter element that will fit, but it may cause incomplete / improper filtering of the oil.

Happy oil changing.

 

Not trying to be rude, but please do a search. We really don't need another thread on this subject...

 

Oops, I've now re-read your post after posting my reply. Sorry. I now realize you've already switched over to a metal filter end cap. But you say it's after-market? I wouldn't use anything but the official Toyota part(s) in this entire procedure.

Hopefully some more board members here will come in and reply here, to clarify, add to, or correct things which I've already attempted to comment on. Guys?

 

I replaced mine with another OE plastic one. (2020 OR). No issues, protected by skids. If you change your own oil, I see no reason to ditch the plastic. Ours had been over torqued by the dealer at 10000 miles. Next oil change the dealer did not even change the filter. Never let them touch it again. Now at 80K miles and no issues.

 

This is what I was saying in the thread about the fluids. These fellows service Camrys and Corollas all day; they don't have the time or the passion to do meticulous work, in too many instances. Once the filter holder and the housing are in the right position, mark both with some colorful paint and then when YOU reinstall, just line up the two paint marks. You don't even need a torque wrench once you get the feel for it. Put the little clip back on there, etc.

Dealers failing to change the filter? Heck, with some vehicles I change the filter at the halfway point between the changes. Modern crankcase oil is of superb quality these days.

 

I guess my concern is more about reputable places saying as soon as you remove the stand pipe its no good, but you have to remove that to do the mod.

 

its a nope for me. Why? If you use the correct tool there is no issue with the existing housing. But i do my own oil changes, I cant imagine how Jiffy Lube does it.

 

Yeah, i read up on a few posts, but non of them addressed the question of "once the stand pipe is removed, its bad".

 

The general consensus on this forum is there is no reason to switch to the metal housing. However, those who have have switched the metal stand pipe from the plastic housing to the metal housing with no issue..

 

Mechanically, explain how when a center standpipe with spring is removed from the plastic filter cap by bending 2 tabs in the filter cap, how does that defeat said spring?

Not happening!
The spring doesn't magically fail when removed from on cap or another.

Not debating whether one should use aluminum cap or not, I have my own preferences.

 

Perfect, thank you guys.

Yeah, i was thinking along the same lines, just wanted to see double check.

Not putting the plastic one on, not sure why it always got stuck even with correct torque.

Next oil will swop out after market for Toyota.

 

Did it after the dealer ruined my plastic one. Just make sure to swap the pipe and spring… and buy the genuine part from Toyota, not Amazon junk.

for the record I don’t think this is a necessary upgrade. The plastic one is fine. Well until someone over tightens it and it cracks

 

I changed to the metal housing after the second dealer oil change. They gunned the plastic one on and probably cracked it then.
Along with cross threading two skid plate bolts.
I just changed the oil & filter today. I also removed the spring and cleaned the junk out from underneath the metal disc, replaced both O-rings and tightened it with a common length 3/8" ratchet with a little oomph once the canister makes contact with the base.
No torque wrench used. It's an experience thing.

 

I had my first experience with a metal toyota housing last weekend on an 2010 Highlander. Had to use a breaker bar on it with a lot of force. Several heave-ho’s did nothing. For sure I thought it wasn’t coming off until finall, a violent pop, my hand goes flying forward, and the shock of the sudden release really did a number on my back.

It came loose, but it ended up breaking my 40 dollar NAPA filter wrench (one of the ears snapped). It was an honest break, not due to incorrectly positioning it. That was a good wrench too,had it since 2018.

I played around with tightening and loosening that filter housing before replacing the oil. I noticed it doesn’t take much torque for it to become pretty hard to loosen again. Big fat threads and huge surface-area where the filter housing and engine meet. When the housing lands, there is zero of the thread stretch you feel on normal bolts, when the housing lands, adding torque doesnt move it at all.

Honestly, plastic or metal housing, I think these get stuck occasionally due to their nature. The plastic ones do feel like would be easier to remove or cut out if they sieze up.

 

As said, if you are switching to the metal housing assembly, take out the stock stand pipe and spring from the stock plastic housing and install both the stock stand pipe and spring into the metal housing. Put in a new oil filter element and both of the new O rings from the new filter element package into the metal housing and end cap and coat both O rings with clean oil. Install with the correct torque values.

It is certainly not necessary to install a new metal housing assembly over a plastic housing assembly in good shape, but if it makes you feel better, make sure you do it right. If you didn't do it right, remove the metal assembly right away (and drain and replace the engine oil just to be safe) and do it right if you want the oil pressure and engine filtering to be where they should be. Making sure your engine oil pressure and filtering are working properly is the most important owner maintenance you can do.

 

I think most guys think their filter assembly is over-torqued. I am careful to torque and 99% of the time it takes a lot of force with my breaker bar. I think it is O-ring friction. Like you said, adding more torque and it doesn't move. I unscrewed my filter by ratchet then by hand once it was "loose" enough. (once I broke it loose with my breaker bar.) I want to say I backed it off about 3 or 4??? full rotations and it didn't leak. Once the O-ring engages the housing it starts to seal. After using a plastic and now a metal housing, I think both are hard to break loose, but feel that the metal one might be "easier" to break loose. YMMV.

 

This is one benefit in my opinion. The plastic one always felt like the threads were just stretching. The metal one seats so positively it gives me a bit more confidence.
I'd agree that over-torqueing either one is not ideal. I think they're prone to getting stuck after heat cycling so many times. I wonder what they torqued that highlander's filter to..

I too totaled a filter wrench (I had used for years) after the dealer cracked the plastic on install. Went and bought the MotivX filter wrench and got it off without doing anymore damage. Works great on plastic or aluminum.

 

Did it at first then recently undid it. The only issues people have from the plastic is user error from over tightening or use of the wrong tool.

 

I did it right after getting the truck.

Maybe I'm old fashioned, but I don't like plastic parts for a frequently used service part. Have see too many problems with embrittlement.

I do my own service so was not worried about breakage from over-tightening.

Jason

 

General consensus is they both work. Do what makes you happy.

 

I had similar issue when I bought my used 2018 could not break it loose. I did use heat but from my heat gun it did break the plastic broke but I was able to get it out in one piece and I purchased the stock OEM plastic one and when I installed it, I use some high temp grease on the threads. I’ve done two oil changes and it has come off properly with no over stressing it and when I tighten it, I do it old school where it’s just snug like the old canister filters. I just snug it in place and call it good of course replacing all the original O-rings Honestly like most things in life they overcomplicated things… a simple old canister. Oil filter would’ve been great spin on spin off

 

Yeah, the barrel seal o-ring has the benefit of not needing to be tight. As long as it’s inside the barrel, it’s sealed. After experiencing the metal one, it seems like the plastic one takes torque force a bit more gradually, due to the slight give of the plastic. In my mind it seems like it would make it easier to set the right amount of torque, without overtorquing. That said, I’ve needed a breaker bar on my plastic housing a few times, and I’m very careful to not over-torque it. So who knows…

Maybe more of an issue is that I don’t like that the metal housing defeated my filter wrench. At least with plastic, there’s a chance that deforming it or cracking it would allow you to get it off.

 

I think next time I might try a little grease on the threads. When you remove it, have you noticed if any of the grease gets dissolved and melted away into the engine oil? I would think all those threads woukd effectively seal the grease from the engine oil, but figured I’d ask if you’ve noticed.

 

I haven’t noticed that, also I do my oil change at approximately 5000 miles so that may be a factor.

 

I replaced mine and that advice about reinstalling the higher chimney being a bad move is from the “carcarenut” videos. His videos are good but he is also a Toyota shill and always says to stay with OEM. I did the mod and I see no was bending and re-bending the small tabs to reinstall the taller chimney in the metal housing would be an issue, not a part under any stress enough to matter. There is no argument I can buy that the metal housing is not a better option from durability and probably some small better heat dissipation.

 

Plastic is better IMO, did you try warming up the car first?

 

When it comes down to it, it's your money. Nobody helps you earn it, so don't let them tell you how to spend it. Take the internet with a grain of salt.

I have the metal housing also with no issues.

 

My preference is the aluminum one from Toyota, changed the center chimney/standpipe and spring from the plastic one over to the aluminum on. I have not had the first issue.
I’ve done this mod on my 2014 and my 2021.

YMMV

 

How about for stuck filter housing: first warm up car to expand engine side of housing.
Then chill the plastic or aluminum housing with ice (or dry ice if really stuck). Dry ice can be ordered thru most Supermarkets a day in advance. Cold will shrink the housing-maybe enough to loosen?