What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

I wish I’d have done that instead of just replacing the bulbs.

 

What sandpaper grit and sanding method do I use (by hand or tool) for raw steel that will be getting mild degreaser and then Raptor etch primer? Thanks





photo for attn:

 

Installed Lasfit rear amber led turn signal bulbs to match the fronts. Holy hell they are the awesome!!. They should just come from the factory like this.

 

I feel for you for all you have to do in BC to protect steel...I don't know what prep @water used on the one he used, and/or the one he didn't, that I bought from him, but here in NM I could mount them bare steel and call it done.

 

Both factory bolts look like this first time removing rear frame tie down hook.
Is this a certain type of tapered bolt or what am I looking at, it doesn’t necessarily look like thread strippage?? The new fasteners don’t have this and don’t seem to fit (easily)..

 

I can now say, i have done both.

 

I don’t know what that OEM style bolt is called. As long as the threads match new bolt to OEM bolt size and pitch, you may need a thread chaser to clean up the frame threads so your new bolt goes in clean.

 

The problem I’m having is the factory bolt size clearly looks thinner at the end (the first 7 threads). The bolt/threads expand wider after theses first 7 threads, as seen in photo. The new bronze bolts are uniformly the wider width the whole way through, causing too much resistance to hand tighten even one thread.
My question is if this actually strip damage to the factory bolt that I’m looking at, or is it the design of the bolt?

 

You can’t re-use the bolts you took out? Curious as I have one of those recovery points arriving Monday. Obviously need to prime and paint it first, but was unaware their replacement hardware didn’t fit. Thanks.

 

That’s a taper bolt I’ve seen before on applications. The thread size to be concerned about is the area I indicated where your threads are just below that wear point on the bolt. You need to make sure of the thread size with possibly a thread pitch gauge or a chase die nut.
Then you should chase the frame bolt holes with a chase tool or a tap that’s the same size as the OEM thread providing the bolts they sent are the same
If they are not, then it’s off to the grade 8 bolt store!

 

Thanks boys !

Nice, ya so I’m not 100% sure if the new bronze hardware doesn’t fit, once you wrench it hard, but by hand I can’t get it started whatsoever, unlike the factory bolts which do go in my hand.. I don’t wanna blow out my frame threads so came here with questions before sending it on the new bolts.

 

Sounds like the threads are different to me dj!

 

Ya and guess what
So the overland customs website lists the hardware as JIS10.9 and doesn’t specify sizing.
Trail4R provides the exact hook and bolt assembly with links, but again doesn’t specify the sizing for me…and then it says it doesn’t fit 2010+ 4R’s!?

..the plot thickens.
Why do I always have to be the trail blazer







*edit:
perhaps I just have to risk it and drive these in, without the taper, and it will work - cuz the bolt width (dunno which M size) and thread pitch are the same

https://trail4runner.com/2021/09/17/5th-gen-4runner-recovery-points/#Rear_Recovery_Points

 

Had multiple deep scratches in the rear bumper right on that lip so I prepped it primed it and rattle canned it with Appliance white from Home Depot. Of course I didn’t take the before picture but it came out nice now if I can just stop backing into heavy shrubbery out in the badlands that should hold up

 

Take a look here.
I looked up a 21

https://autoparts.toyota.com/products/product/hook-sub-assy-rr-5109560030#popup-1

Looks like the bolt number is this.
Toyota 91674-81235 Bolt, FLANGE W/WASHE

 

Much appreciated sir, on a Saturday!
*2 out of 10 digits were incorrect on the trail4R link.
**still can’t find what Metric size they are. Just so I know, I’m gunna take them with me to the hrdware store and try twisting them into them sizing template in the hardware aisle

Answer:
M12x1.25

 

Just bought proper owner recommended Automotive Self Etch Primer from my trusted auto parts store

 

Crawled rocks.

 

Did you figure out why the bolt wasn't threading in very easily?

 

Ya so the new M12 doesn’t have the tapered end so it won’t twist in by hand but it must go in with some pressure and torque wrench cuz the majority of the threads are same as factory. I’m gunna thread chase real good first especially the passenger side which has been exposed to BC for 8+ yrs. Might add an additional washer too like factory’s got.

I’ve never thread chased before and need to buy a kit or, ideally just m12 size which may not be sold individually..anyone have tips for me?

 

Orion Motor Tech Master Thread Repair Kit

https://www.amazon.ca/Orion-Motor-Tech-Universal-Rethreading/dp/B0CNBYB6PR?crid=33ZDW3CLW28RV&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.M6WHpUwMkJ-9Oml_NEC4JNLtNRF0BV0SZ72I-3zB2i57KWwTxT7zlmjFFOWDvm8CwxsEN-ykPrCY9tHLzTsSUaAEqo85pgNUXu1bjH4A2-wBDa_VD8swpe1jcaMgKtK_qKCGcnDnQ3WP19UKF8Ck2bL3LdtF-3Qz7EU5fGaMOUDfoVsnqVplc8KLzQQFtrsvtg5xZV_hTMzm7m0IvBELDw.G5ho1bDfx5LI_prCBHtIzpyN_Gs-JmoyQy5PBCKrD-8&dib_tag=se&keywords=metric+thread+chaser+M12&qid=1754198409&sprefix=metric+thread+chaser+m12%2Caps%2C119&sr=8-2-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm

then you will have what you need next time!

 

Spent a couple hours yesterday on a rusted license plate light screw All four were rusted but one in particular had the head pretty much crumble. Tried an “easy-out” but had to go all the way to removing the rear hatch panel to pop out the rear trim piece and using a needle nose to twist the screw out.

After that, I was able to install most of the MESO Customs interior lights. I have to finish up today and will try to get some pics.

 

I've made a "tapered' bolt in the past by grinding down the last couple of threads just a bit, but @Saker's suggested set in the link above would come in very handy in the future. They also offer this:

$9 M12 x 1.25 Metric Thread Tap and Die Set, M12 x 1.25mm High-Speed Steel Machine Tap and Die Set, Right Hand Thread Tap and Round Thread Die

https://www.amazon.com/Metric-Threa...9142&msclkid=62ca4a8e487a1002d21a2201249c29d8

 

Funny, that was on my to do list this weekend. I will be using raptor liner to coat the top portion instead of paint. My culprit is a 105lbs puppy.

 

I did use the supplied bolts when I installed mine. My original bolts were in better shape than yours. I did not have as much rust.

as for prep for paint, I cleaned, then sprayed. I just wanted to keep the rust away.

 

Oh and I did not do the passenger side since I had not rerouted the exhaust. I am sure I would have had to tap the threads as well on that side. I had to do that with the mount for my air compressor up front. The holes were completely packed with dirt!