Sealing holes on hitch receiver

Does it make sense to seal the holes in the tube of a hitch receiver? I've had one rust out from the bottom. It seems that if you have a new receiver that these should be sealed. Thoughts and experiences?

 

If they are sealed, they will rust out from the inside
The holes are meant to drain water, water that will inevitably find itself into the tube.
The holes also allow you to stick the straw for some rust inhibitor spray into the tube and spray everything down in every direction to prevent the rust.

Woolwax and FluidFilm seem to be the hottest brands.

 

Water’s probably going to find its way in somehow, sealing it in my opinion would be gambling in the rest of the tube being 109% sealed. I think it’s better if you keep the drain and spray out (clean) and rust-proof the interior as said above.

 

These holes are elevated far from the bottom. My last hitch rotted out on the bottom only. Same holes.
Two questions:If the holes are for drainage, why aren't they on the bottom rather that up on the ends?
2nd: How can water get in if the holes are sealed, like, a submarine?

 

Love it
Made me think of of wes anderson immediately

…sorry

 

Unless every weld is TIG welded, that tube isnt actually sealed
Even if that tube is TIG welded, condensation and humidity inside the tube will cause it to rust from the inside out
If the holes are not on the bottom, they need to be redrilled ON THE BOTTOM
You gotta drain any water out of there and spray everything inside the tube to keep it from rusting out.
I built a 2x3 trailer frame about 22-23 years ago, heavy wall boxed tubing, i mitered and TIG welded the corners, it looks fantastic. I used to sand and paint it about every 2-3 years to keep it looking new but i got busy with life about 12 years ago and started neglecting it. It hasnt had a sand and repaint in about 14 years but it has had some sand / spot treatment where the paint flaked and caused a bit of rust like on the fenders ect. The trailer still looks pretty good on the outside but 2 years ago i noticed it flexing a LOT more than its supposed to and saw some cracks around the back of the frame outside of the welds. I did some grinding and rewelded that area and last year while i was pressure washing it i blew a hole in the side of the frame. It looks like a collander now, tons of tiny holes and some bigger holes. Water got inside the frame and pooled in the rear and rusted the frame from the inside out. After i blew a hole in the frame i cut the whole back tube off and found LAYERS of rust which looked like wet pages of a book. The inner frame rails were layers and layers and layers of rust and this rust had eaten thru the 3/16" frame rails and finally popped thru the outermost layer and when i blew thru the paint with the pressure washer it blew the thin rusty steel right out. I did a bunch of bracing, used 1/4" flat bar on the outside, welded the rear tube back and plated over and around it with 1/4" flat bar to get me by a year or two until i can build a stainless trailer frame. This is when i learned the importance of using woolwax and fluid film INSIDE something you assume is sealed up. I actually have 2 of these trailers i built, almost identical, the newest one i built two years ago i used 2x3 heavy wall and mitered and TIG welded it up nice. After i blew a hole thru my frame of my old trailer i went and drilled holes in the bottom of the frame on the new 2x3 frame and sprayed 3 cans of fluid film inside the frame as much as i could cover till it was dripping out. I used 1/2" holes on the bottom so they cant rust shut. I'll be dammed if this new one rusts out from the inside.

 

Very educational. I'm sold. Drill 1/2" holes in the bottom for drainage and use fluid film inside.

 

On the 1x3 frame rail, once i realized it had water in it and drilled a 1/4" hole, it was only a matter of months before the rust from the inside of the frame plugged the 1/4" hole up. Thats why on the new frame i did a 1/2" hole.
Dont forget fluid film or woolwax. Use the sprayer tube and get inside the tube and spray in every direction.

 

Thanks again

 

An alternative to Fluid Film for areas already rusted is Rust Lock products. They are liquid (not skin friendly) but chemically react to rust converting it into a stable grey compound that lasts years. Sold at auto paint stores and marine hardware stores. Just follow label instructions. Sealers and paints can be applied over it.

 

Why not just replace the hitch if in doubt?

 

I am replacing it. My old one rotted out at the bottom. I'm trying to prevent it from happening again.

 

WD-40 has a product that I used on my 1979 VW bus in an area below the engine that was a tubular framing. I sprayed
the WD-40 product specific to prevent rust liberally into the channel and often. For the life of me, can't remember the name right now. Shouldn't be too hard to find. Not everyday run of the mill WD-40

 

Would this be it?
"WD-40 Specialist® Corrosion Inhibitor"
https://www.wd40.com/products/corrosion-inhibitor/

 

That's the stuff!

 

Then you will get wet salty road slop getting in there.

 

Then what is the best solution?

 

Thats why you spray the inside with the rust inhibitor.....

 

For me, the best solution would be to not worry about it and possibly replace it again in 24 years.

 

It's not the only hitch or tow vehicle I own. And what I've learned is that the manufacturers strategically locate holes on the sides 1/4" above the bottom. So, its a going-forward issue. And it's not the money. It's a total pain in the arse to remove them. It makes sense to me to mod them before installing, new truck or old. ymmv