Mid brake job - Front pad spring clips?

I'm finishing up front brakes, new pads, rotors, calipers.

Do these lower spring clips look okay? I've tried a few times, and this is the way it wants to fit.

It's funny how it's always the little things take the most time, haha.

Thanks!

 

That looks fine to me.

 

Thanks. The old ones were broken so I wasn't able to take a "before" pic like I usually do.

First time doing front brakes on one of these.

 

I think they would be very difficult to install if they were flipped over. Maybe murphy proof?

 

I've had to futz with those things on a few occasions and they still make me question whether they're on right or not.

 

I've got aftermarket wheels that make it really easy to see the caliper. You have them on correct.

Just make sure that clip goes on the leading edge of rotation, not trailing.

 

Thanks for the replies. Everything went back together correctly, but I'm not happy with the bleed. Pedal is lower than I'd like.

I'm over it, I'll just drop it off somewhere next week. It's too hot for this shit.

Incidentally, this 4R is the worst vehicle for brakes that I've ever owned. Any vehicle that I've had to replace a frozen caliper on was way older. (My '00 Firebird was 20 years old before it needed a caliper)

And whoever designed those lugnuts can rot in hell.

 

Lol, it's hot as the devil's ass crack around here. Glad you got it done. The frozen caliper thing has been around since the 4th gen, and I've never heard a good explanation as to why it happens. Never heard of it on any other (relatively new) vehicle.

Easy way to remember how to install the clips: 1) always on the leading side of rotation (they're meant to prevent pad flutter); and 2) the center "V" that is above the rotor always points up. In fact, if you install it upside down, that "V" can even scrape the rotor - at least it did on my 4th gen. Now go drink beer!

 

Thank for the detailed explanation! I installed them the way you described, you're right, kind of hard to install them any other way.

I took it for a ride, it stops well and doesn't pull to either side, and no warning lights. Just a low pedal. It was definitely firmer before.

Oh well, a brake bleed can't be too expensive.

Beer is already cracked. Cheers!

 

There are super cheap gravity bleed kits on Amazon that really work well. It's nothing more than a tube that fits over the bleed screw and a tiny bottle to catch the brake fluid. They really work good and they're especially good when working alone. Something like this:

$18 Mission Automotive Brake Bleeder Kit - 16 oz - Easy-to-Use One Man Brake Bleeding Kit - Air and Brake Fluid Changer with Magnetic Mount and Lanyard for Car and Motorcycle Brake Systems

Amazon.com: Mission Automotive 16oz Brake Bleeding Kit - Easy Use One Person Brake Fluid Bleeder with Magnet Mount and Hanging Lanyard - for Car and Motorcycles Brake Systems 16oz Fluid Capacity : Automotive

If you have O'Reilly in your area, they have them too.

 

Just a word of caution on frozen calipers. Be careful what you replace them with. Most of the aftermarket rebuilt / remanufactured calipers are of far lower quality than the OEM ones - if that's actually possible.

 

I got mine from AutoZone because they were in stock. Fingers crossed.

Lifetime warranty at least.

 

That's essentially what I used.

I don't know how one would use that alone though, the pedal still has to be pumped and held while the bleeder is cracked.

 

I've used this method a few times. Works really well. DIY 2 liter bottle and tubing.
Bleed brakes by yourself - DIY Brake Bleeder tool - Brake flush - YouTube

 

You can use the ABS pump on these rigs to bleed all 4 corners. Easiest vehicle I've ever bled brakes on, didn't run into any issues. We did new pads, rotors, and OEM calipers all around

Pressure bleeding allows you to do it solo if you don't have a helper, just stay under 15psi in the system.

 

I've another set of those spring clips at the top as well. Not required but works well keeping calipers from rattling around.