What have you done to your 5th Gen 4Runner today?

I went the cheap route. Replaced the factory breather with this union and 1/4" hose. Ran the hose up the filler neck as far as I could and zip tied it where needed. I left a 6" loop in the hose to allow full droop.


https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/oem/toyota~union~no~4~90404-51026.html

$11 EZ-FLO Rubber Fuel Line, 1/4" ID x 10 Feet, Black, 98595

https://www.amazon.com/EZ-FLO-98595-Rubber-Fuel-Black/dp/B08SR7GTF1?crid=1KGKCX3MMCF5&keywords=1%2F4+"+fuel+line&qid=1675825558&sprefix=1/4+fuel+line,aps,261&sr=8-8

 

Nope, asked to them to check and they didn’t find anything, nothing even with uv light looking for trails.

 

Trail Grid pro responded today saying they will update there site to reflect the gas tank skids not suited for the 2010-2013 because of mounting is different to body...

 

Oh and the Sloth got new window awnings today a lot sleeker these are from Amazon the AutoClover brand

 

direct corporate link for the lazy:
https://www.autoclover.com/autoclover/search25.php?keyword=4runner
Ama zon:

$50 AUTOCLOVER Tape-On Rain Guards Window Visors 4 Pcs Set for Toyota 4Runner 2010-2024 (5th Gen) / Window Deflectors, Out-Channel Vent Shades (Smoked)

https://www.amazon.com/AUTOCLOVER-4Runner-2010-2022-Out-Channel-Deflector/dp/B0B79M54F5/

 

Did my 35th oil change and, after extensive research, opted for 5W-30 Valvoline Extended. Perf. I will switch back to 0W-20 once it gets colder. Doing a 1000-mile road trip this weekend. I will see if it affects gas mileage, if any.

 

Changed front and rear brake pads. I wish the rears were as easy as the fronts.

 

Did the 35k mile service today (oil change, tire rotation, all around check) and gave it a quick pressure rinse.

 

IN ADDITION, the way i did it..

 

and more rust info I have found and saved..
Did you check the front radiator support crossmember (where the tow loops are mounted)? That spot is especially prone to disintegrating from rust. The other area us the body mounts and the frame area it’s attached to, especially on the passenger side that usually stays wet all summer from AC condensation drain.

Depending on the price, what you show looks serviceable.

That said, it’s in the early stages of being bad. If you keep driving it without paying attention to the rust, I think you’ll have perforated frame pretty quickly. Once the rust get’s puffy, it’s a salt-water sponge…the rusting is going to happen at a much accelerated rate from now on.

If it were mine, I’d do the following as soon as the weather allowed and the rains have rinsed salt off the roads:

-remove the skidplates and spare for clear access to everything.

-use a hard wire brush to “crack” the paint off all puffy rust areas, and descale the loose stuff. Don’t go nuts with this, otherwise you’ll never get it done. The idea is to reduce the amount of puffy rust that holds salt-water like a sponge. Your rust-descaling doesn’t have to be anywhere near perfect (you won’t be using paint in the next steps)

-wash the frame and crossmembers inside and out with lots of water. Thoroughly. Include the use of a salt dissolving liquid if you at some point in this washing step. A garden hose will do, as long as the nozzle will let you direct water into the holes of the frame. Keep rinsing inside of frame until the water drains clear. Drive it around a few days to let it dry.

-get a gallon of fluid film (lanolin), a decent size painters brush, and then drown the ever living life out of the frame with it. Warm it up in the sun to thin it, then glop it on, thick and heavy over everything you see (except rubber bits). Use the brush to work it well into the scale rust areas. You can use spray cans of fluid film to get into hard to reach areas like gas tank straps mounting points, but the majority I would brush. Because you’ll need to make sure all the scaly/puffy rust is fully saturated. Work that brush really good into those areas.

-use a compressor (or spray cans) and a long wand to heavily coat the inside of all crossmembers and the frame rails. Warm fluid film is probably good for this, or a cavity wax product if you know it will wick and creep before it sets up. Pay attention to body mounts (nooks and crannies) and anywhere you see sandwich weldments.

-drive it for a month or so, go down as many dusty gravel roads as possible. Drive down wet muddy roads/trails when possible. The idea is to saturate the fluid film with dirtiness and grit. This helps set up the fluid-film and makes for a good base layer for the next step.

-rinse the frame off with water to get any loose mud off. Then get gallon of Woolwax (it’s thicker than fluid film), and brush it on with a painters brush…again, use a lot of it, all over the outside surfaces of the frame. Drown it in that shit.

-find those same gravel roads and muddy puddles, get it dirty. After a few months, hopefully before the following winter, you should have a really nice crusty woolwax coating that will last a really long time. It will look disgusting, but beautiful. More importantly, it will be inside the rusty scale, which will prevent it from developing further.

 

Toyota went back to a spin on filter for the 6th gen so clearly they know they f'ed up. But not having a door for the filter is yet another layer of f'up.

My only saving grace is my 4runner doesn't see many road miles so it gets annual oil change. All of my other vehicles they are as easy as your Mazda or even easier for sedans with no skid plates or under chassis covers near the filter and drain plug. My F250 uses quite a bit of oil on each change but it almost takes me less time to change oil on it than taking off the skid plate on the 4runner. I might be exaggerating a little but not by much.

 

shouldnt that be attached to something? Lol

 

Any specific tips for me, I’m doing pads myself for the first time this month

 

Probably showing off how he stacked up the mounting hardware. Bilstein's instructions can be a little less-than-clear.

 

2 years later….finally updated my wheels…..Method 703 in Gloss Titanium


IG @oldmanyago8541

 

I just got done re-seasoning my cast iron skillet. The process sounds eerily similar. I did fluid film last month… maybe I’ll get some wool wax and do step 2. I really like how nothing sticks to my skillet… could be the same thing with my truck. It’s really satisfying when you do a good job of it.

 

After a trip through the Rockies, and some bushwhacking, and some long-ish highway commutes...all on roads that haven't seen rainfall for weeks...it was time to seriously clean the windshield.

I assume they also have something similar in the states, but we use Allen's cleaning vinegar. 10% strength, and gets the glass squeaky clean. Have to rinse thoroughly to make sure none stays on the vehicle, but I was washing it anyway.

Photographing clean glass.....now that's a trick....

 

YouTube is your friend! Be sure to get the right pads:
https://youtu.be/AueK4DJ7Dms?si=ml9nTMU-8clzAvig

The fronts are easy and the rears aren’t that bad, just take your time. I took breaks at every wheel (garage was +80°) and it took 2 hours.

 

does anyone have a link for these?

 

A list of all the brake related parts

Front Rotor: 43512-60191, Qty 2
Front Brake Pads: 04465-60320
Front Shim Kit: 04945-60090
Front Caliper Pins: 47735-60300, Qty 4
Front Caliper Clip Pin hold (Spring): 47743-60280, Qty 2
Front Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set of 2 clips: 04947-35050

Rear Rotor: 42431-60311, Qty 2
Rear Brake Pads: 04466-60140
Rear Disc Brake Pad Shim Kit: 04946-60141
Rear Disc Brake Anti-Rattle Clip Set, Pad Support Plates: 04947-22050
Rear, Pin Cylinder Slide, Disc Brake Caliper Pin: 47715-43010, Qty 4
Rear Rebuild Kit, Rubber Pin Slide Bush/Bush Dust Boot/Plug and Lithium Glycol Grease (pink): 04479-60030, Qty 1 per axel but grease is marginal

thanks: https://www.4runners.com/threads/brake-replacement-parts-list-5th-gen.34536/#post-506124

and if you are thinking non OEM then

Akebono
https://akebonobrakes.mypartfinder.com/
ASP 976 front pads ASP 606 rear pads
https://www.4runners.com/threads/br...bosch-raybestos-or-akebono.31860/#post-454415

BOSCH BC976 QuietCast Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set

$40 BOSCH BC976 QuietCast Premium Ceramic Disc Brake Pad Set - Compatible with Select Lexus GX460, GX470; Toyota 4Runner, FJ Cruiser, Sequoia, Tacoma, Tundra; FRONT

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-BC976-QuietCast-Premium-Ceramic/dp/B00YQ3Q2PO
https://www.4runners.com/threads/wh...-gen-4runner-today.2261/page-1280#post-715010

Powerstop Z23-976B

$58 Power Stop Z23-976B Front Z23 Evolution Sport Carbon Fiber Infused Ceramic Brake Pads with Hardware For Lexus GX460 2010-2022, Toyota 4Runner 2010-2022 [Model Specific]

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Stop-Z23-976B-Evolution-Carbon-Fiber/dp/B0833QDDHG
Raybestos Element 3
https://www.raybestos.com/element3-pads
https://www.raybestos.com/partFinder/search/index?year=2022&make=0054&model=1270&product=0003
https://www.4runners.com/threads/br...bosch-raybestos-or-akebono.31860/#post-454540

Raybestos SP976TRH

$39 Raybestos Premium Raybestos Specialty Truck & SUV Replacement Front Disc Brake Pad Set for Select Lexus GX460/GX470 and Toyota 4Runner/FJ Cruiser/Sequoia/Tacoma/Tundra Model Years (SP976TRH)

https://www.amazon.com/Raybestos-SP976TRH-Specialty-Truck-Brake/dp/B01M1IGT1P
Hawk
https://www.hawkperformance.com/market/truck-suv
https://www.hawkpadsdirect.com/collections/hawk-performance-brakes-for-2019-toyota-4runner-all

 

i like and use the Z36 powerstop ceramic brake pads

 

I find the rears to be much easier than the fronts. The front caliper pins are always a huge pain in the ass to get out for me. I needed to cut them out the first time I did the brakes.

 

https://overlandcustomdesign.com/products/copy-of-recovery-point

 

ya bud
https://overlandcustomdesign.com/products/copy-of-recovery-point

*bolt thread is M12 x 1.25

 

Thank you both!

 

Ordered a pair. For anyone interested, use “sicmods” for a discount

 

Follow this:

https://youtu.be/SNEJ0Efvv3M?si=HRtzeLtSSZpREUP9

 

Searching Amazon i found this roof rack for $310 so i bought it. I love amazon if its shit i can return it.

$306 LONGSUN 4Runner Roof Rack Full Size Fit for 2010-2024 Toyota 4Runner 5 Gen Heavy Duty Basket Cargo Carriers Overland Rooftop Luggage Storage Holder Carbon Steel Cross Bars 800 LBS Platform Style

https://www.amazon.com/LONGSUN-2010-2024-Carriers-Overland-Platform/dp/B0F6N4R24J?crid=3UPGUASBSK3RD&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.6XydPhK8rH9NcdL7wOzyG1Wib1BlBb2QsAWV_CSPazmFIn3yIrjW62knsItoDy70AubMTDFf2oEYiz8Lvx9NNcVt2ecO-htULAG3hxVnKaPNIua_FKIN-vqvgUr1FUyQGrZTAh4rJxrmSi1s6SWQ4vUL8djp48B9TqcPZulJR22l3q7zETRpE7gjEe3-zI6WJmW-FVn-sjajha7BsU1LlA.R5q2U6mf5tEsasSbxRZjn9LnehToGQvUsTHcHfh1Vbg&dib_tag=se&keywords=4runner+roof+rack&qid=1756413244&sprefix=4runner+roof+rack%2Caps%2C106&sr=8-17

Next im going to buy the $900 rooftop tent.

 

Would have appreciated a discount code when I bought, people!?

 

Pro tip everything after the ? In the URL is optional.

Also looks like the TEMU rack

https://old.reddit.com/r/4Runner/s/o7WP9D5sVQ

https://old.reddit.com/r/4Runner/s/tVmaojKukB