Differential Drain Plug-Won't Budge

Think those would work with a long 1/2” breaker bar ?

 

There’s really no room for long tool less you lift up the truck
Keep in mind the leverage angle

 

I've drained and filled well over 100 Tacoma/4runner front diffs. Only had 1 drain bolt strip, it was my personal GX470 before I became proficient at working on Toyota trucks.

For the front diff drain bolt I use a very long (18-20 inch) 3/8 ratchet and 10mm hex socket. There isn't much room for the ratchet head at the drain plug.

With the truck jacked up is better. Once the socket is fully inserted into the hex bolt, I smack the long ratchet once or twice. This usually breaks it free. If not, then I very carefully apply steady pressure, making sure the hex socket stays straight. It's easy for it to get crooked, since the head of the ratchet can interfere with the diff housing if not at the correct angle.

 

Same issue. I bought this for $34 on Amazon and it worked perfectly. I replaced with a stainless steel 19mm plug from Amazon. Make sure you support the rachet to keep it straight and not twist the tap out. I didn't have to drill, just hammer best fit into the plug. Don't buy factory Toyota parts from Amazon. Lots of fakes. ToyotaPartsDeal.com., is the cheapest, fastest OEM parts I have found.

 

Yes but it depends on your situation, I had my T4R up on Quickjacks so it was 2ft in the air so getting the leverage on a long bar was not a problem. I think the key here is making sure you have enough pressure on the head of the nut, the longer the bar the greater the chance it will slip and round the hex. I am not sure if you are supposed on use an impact but the direct pressure is what I think broke it loose, there was no rust at all on the threads my guess is that these plugs were put on dry before the diffs were filled and the torque spec is too high for that. Once they have been take off once and oil is on the threads I don't think they will have issue coming off. Moral of the story here is if you have a new (ish) T4R change your diff oil ASAP to make sure you can get the drain plug off.

 

I only have 5k miles on my 2024 but this thread has me thinking about breaking my diff plug loose and then retorquing it to
30 ft lbs like the oil pan drain plug .

 

Its worth it just for the satisfaction of cleaning all the metal sludge off!

 

he’d just be cracking the seal n retorquing the bolt
Not a drain at 5k

this way in the future he’s set

right?

 

Yep

 

Since I haven’t done a drain and refill yet someone please post a pic of the location of this plug.
TIA .

 

https://youtu.be/CkzMMu7-QH8?si=kf7tTggM2oGZP2Xs

Side note: copyright deez…

 

when it broke free, the noise… …thought I broke my arm

Side note: read somewhere bout a guy putting antiseize on the plug before reinstalling to avoid all this, different vehicle…I dunno, but I’m pretty sure that’s a realllllllly bad idea

 

Anti-Seize may work well. But one would have to lower the tightening torque to compensate for the lower thread friction.

 

Having the same problem I have the Lexus plug ready to go in but still cant get mine out I am pretty descent with a welder however what all precautions as far as disconnecting the battery and any other electrical possible problems could you have even with the ground right next to the plug has anyone had anything locked up or malfunctioned after disconnecting the battery I have always used a tender when swapping the battery out

 

The front drain was a little tight but I just used a longer ratchet without issues.

 

Pre hit with blaster or such…like for days

 

Hit it with pb blast let it soak overnight took a chisel to raise a small lip on the plug then was going to use a punch to drive it but after second hit with chisel it spun free now has the Lexus plug for future drains

 

What lb did you torque it ?

 

Anti-seize is your friend

 

I heard if you disconnected the battery, you'll start to use punctuation

Jokes aside, no issues with disconnecting the battery aside from needing to reset the clock and compass zone. After reconnecting the battery, the first engine start may stumble due to throttle re-learn.

 

Does this help? Anyone know what exactly is happening to the front diff plug that makes it so damn hard to remove? I have heard even the Lexus 'outy' plug gets stuck. Is it the dissimilar metals?

 

I have no theories, just techniques to offer.

I work on old/busted/rusty vehicles frequently.

Stuck fasteners:

• ENSURE your bit/tool fits precisely with no slop. You only get one chance to not round/mangle a fastener
• HEAT with torch. Don't get it glowing, if you start to see any luminance/color, STOP.
• LUBRICATE with penetrating oil while hot. Capillary action will likely draw the fluid into the threads.
• WAIT a few hours or even overnight to let the heat cycle and the lube work

Then try to remove.

I find this sequence works a great majority of the time.

If not, only then resort to heavy handed tactics.

Jason

 

Yes it works. I always put a dab and torque to spec, never had a issue removing. Same on the wheel studs and even those tiny bolts to hold the coil packs down.

 

Good to know, thanks.

 

If using anti-seize or similar (friction modifier), be sure to lower tightening torque accordingly.

 

So after servicing the diffs and trans but not the case, I get a sulfur smell every time I drive. I don't see any drips on the ground but I also have full skids. Hopefully I can hop under and look over the weekend.

 

I want to know why Toyota specs the front drain plug at 48 ft lbs when the oil pan plug is only 30 ft lbs .

 

good old toyota exhaust! Enjoy

 

Completely different housing and fastener. Diff and drain plug are considerably more robust than the oil pan and plug.

 

That one is different or so I thought. This is a sulfur smell.