Might buy a 4th gen

cheap, but how difficult to install? and then an alignment after id assume

 

If they're OEM take-offs (assembled coil and shock), then install is as easy as it gets.

For aftermarket stuff: best case you get assembled coilovers, which would be the same as the above, worst case you need to assemble them yourself, which involves some kind of spring compression.

Technically, yes, you should get an alignment after any suspension replacement. The aftermarket lift will need more adjustment than the tacoma take-offs.

 

I ran a Tacoma TRD Offroad setup for years. First set was off a 2015 and I spent $200 including a separate purchase of some FJ rear springs. Updated the front later with coilovers and UCAs from a 2020.

No complaints but I eventually decided to go Eibach all around when I found some sweet deals on their components.

 

2" lift will level the front, and allow 31.6" tires all around, this is how I bought my truck. If you're sticking with 4runner suspension parts, you probably want to upgrade the upper control arms when going for a lift. Lift contol arms push the ball joint forward to allow proper steering angle. Mine came with the original suspension with 270k on it, and the upper ball joints are finally starting to go. Compared to the cost of stock control arms (much easier than changing the ball joint), an inexpensive upgrade to something like Freedom Offroad control arms (~$400) is a no-brainer, and there are a lot of great options.

Mine came with a 2" front lift spacer, which pushes the strut down. I highly recommend you skip the spacer, and replace/upgrade the front struts. If you stay with stock springs, get Bilstein 5100's or another front strut with adjustable spring perches to achieve a 2" or 3" lift, even if you don't upgrage the rear shocks. The spacer method leads to broken struts when the front suspension bottoms out. One of my front struts was cracked at the lower attachment point when I bought it, I had never seen anything like that before.

 

Sunroof issues are fairly easy to diagnose, at least compared to my VW. The interior panels are easy to remove, and you get lots of access to the drains before having to remove the headliner. The worst Toyota sunroof problems are usually a worn/corroded cable, and maybe a motor that died trying to push it. Once the headliner is down, it's not very difficult to fix, but it's rare to have to get to that point. Oftentimes a thorough clean and lubing of the sunroof tracks and drains fix most problems.

The Car Care Nut has a great video with a Land Cruiser sunroof that explains everything about them, as he had just pulled a damaged and corroded unit for full replacement. Unlike those Land Cruisers, we have individual repair parts available, and they're not terribly expensive.