Maxed out Mid-Travel build

Hey all, just creating this thread to document my build. I've been wanting to build a stock width 2wd 4runner for dune/desert use for a while and Im finally getting after it.

Here it is, prepared to not be stock anymore.

 

It's already in the "Take Off/Launch" position. Nice!

 

Nice, have fun with the build

 

8" travel 2.0 Radflo coilovers w/18" 550lb eibach coils.
Gained 2in of droop and w/ the stock control arms in place. The control arms are definitely the limiting factor at this point with the tie rods not far behind.

 

I built this jig a few months ago. Allows me to replicate factory geometry, or modify from it. Will build my own upper control arms using this jig.

 

That's bitch'n. I am putting aside my lunch money to find a 2wd 5th gen for a build like this.

 

1.25" .187 wall DOM. 1in Uniball cups, and 2in .25 wall bushing shells. Put .625" of linear caster into the arms. Offset the tube into the bushing shells, instead of correcting angle at the uniball cup. I'll be running delrin bushings in these.

 

Nice. Out of curiosity, what's the extended length on those front shocks?

 

I don't remember the exact length. If I remember correctly they're about 1.5" longer that the standard "extended length" drop in coilover, but also about 0.5" shorter when fully compressed.
When I pull them back out I'll give you exact measurements.

 

Giving my little micro lathe a workout.

 

I like where this thread is going. Love to see how people make stuff! Keep it coming!!!

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AYyecS2D2-o

 

following for this rad build!

 

Same. Following!

 

Are these prototypes, or will they be going on the vehicle? Could you post a close up of the welds?

 

Cool. Curious what you have planned for secondary shocks.

 

Both. These will end up on the vehicle as I play with caster. These will not be the final arms.

At this point, I don't plan on a secondary, as there isn't enough room without doing a different lower, which is doable but also requires modifying the chassis considerably, which I'm trying to avoid. In working with Radflo, we feel the 2.0 should be sufficient with proper valving and good bump stops. We're also toying with the idea of larger reservoirs if need be.
I'm also really debating on down the road doing some +1 upper and lower arms which would then give me the room for a larger shock without being super wide.
We'll see where this goes lol.
I haven't made much headway this last week. Been waiting on some parts, and my day job(heavy equipment repair) has been getting in the way. Should make some more progress this weekend.

 

So what i told you prior, I had backwards.
Compressed these are 14.8". Extended 22.83".

Got some time to play with the rig today. I actually have .25" more travel with the factory uppers than I do with my tubular arms. Even with quite a bit of caster the uniball cup hits the spring at droop, being much larger than the factory ball joint.
My options now are to lock the lowers out at their widest, and build adjustable uppers, and/or just bite the bullet and go +1 arms, and heimed steering all in one shot.

I do find it funny that shops are claiming their uniball uppers are increasing travel, when that's clearly not the limiting factor...

 

What if you go with a ball joint like jba, Would the spring still hit the ball joint? Even if you rotated the spring does it still hit

Since most "extended travel" shocks have 6" of travel and these have 8" are you just running into issues.

 

Yes, the extra shock stroke is definitely giving me issues, but I knew it would to a degree. I dont think the chev style balljoint like JBA uses would give me any extra clearance. I'm going to do more playing with it. I'll find a workaround. This is the fun part!

 

I agree the work is the fun part. Any idea of actual travel numbers? On my previous tacoma mild travel build I couldn't go over front 9.15"
ish of(actual) travel without hitting the frame or uca. Jba uca gave me the best clearance.

 

So what is limiting the suspension droop now? The cv axle?

 

Im going to pull the coilovers out tomorrow so I will measure travel.

No CV's. It's 2wd. The control arm contacting the coil is the limiting factor. Then the next hang up will be the tie rods.

 

11.5" from from contact of spring at droop, to touching the bump stop at compression.

 

Damn that's a crazy amount! And that's with oem uca? Shit I'd just limit the droop by a 1/4" with limiting straps and move to the rear. What do you plan on doing to the rear suspension?

 

I cant leave well enough alone hahaha. I want to at least get to 12" bumped and strapped. I've got some ideas to get there.

The rear will be simple. Lower links will be bushed at the frame and uniballs at the axles.
The driver side upper link will be ditched. The passenger side will be bushed at the frame as well, but heimed at the axle for adjustability, then an adjustable panhard.

 

me watching this thread

 

Love the license plate

 

That was on my '82 Chev K20

 

Okay, so I've decided on my next move.
I'm going to make some lockout plates for the LCA's, that pushes them out to max width. Then I'm going to fab new uppers that will have offset heims. This will give me the adjustability for camber and caster, and should give me the clearance I need to hit my 12" mark.
I probably won't get back to it for a few weeks. I will update as this progresses.